Just put our Silk Green "MINIMNT" back together with the "repaired" Midlands (still has an axle leak) but now I have a driveability problem. Started working on this car back in December and it did not have this problem before this. When the engine bay is hot it will throw a P2300 and P2303 code and turn over at the right speed but not start. These two codes indicate "Ignition coil A circuit low" and "Ignition coil B circuit low". Coil is a "Screamin' Demon" coil that has been in the car for years with not problems.
First time it would not start was when we returned to the car in a grocery store lot after a short shopping trip. Engine caught for a second, then stalled and would not start. I went back later, had the hood up for a bit, then rolled it down the upper lot ramp to get it within reach of a tow truck. Second time I dumped the clutch it started. I suspect that it would have started with the starter at that point as I believe the engine bay cooled down enough.
Pulled the codes, then put in the OEM coil which I still had (after cleaning the posts with sandpaper). Car ran good with the OEM coil, and the Screamin' Demon coil at that point..
Another longer trip yesterday, car stalled out coming into parking lot for a medical appointment. While family member was inside, I hooked up OEM coil which I had placed in the boot. No start with OEM coil which I believe rules out either coil as the problem. Hood was open for the hour, when family member was done the car started and we drove away. Two blocks into our drive, car stalled out again and we had it towed home. At home, put hood up, ate dinner, came back out and the car started. Pulled codes P2300 and P2303 again.
Another member on here stated that they had almost this exact same problem and ended up sending their ECU away to SIA Electronics; SIA found and replaced a bad transistor. Any ideas on this? It's clearly a heat related problem which would definitely cause an ECU pproblem to show up.
And others have reported fixing this by havng the ECU repaired or replaced, not by subbing in a new coil.

TIA

Val

 

Since you can pretty much replicate the issue I would diagnose the cause first, before sending off the ECU. Get the car up to temp and have it stall, pull the plugs and see if you actually don't get any sparks. If you do get spark, check if you are still getting fuel pressure into the rail. Then go from there.

 

I would also suggest, next time it won't start, pull the low voltage plug off the coil and test for voltage between the center pin and ground (with the ignition on).
If it's 0V then check the relay on the fuse block under the hood that is furthest toward the front of the car. Swap it with one of the others and try starting the engine.