I've read a post a while back here on NAM, in regards to wiring in a kill switch.
Any info as to the best/easiest way to splice in a kill switch (battery cut off) would be very much appreciated.
Thanks.

 

shoot I'm so bad with electrical stuff

I do think I've seen a vid on YouTube on this

Why the need for a kill switch. My curiosity is getting me

 

I think I remember seeing a video, as well, a few years ago, of someone adding a kill switch to their truck.
Rather than splicing into the main or ignition, battery - I'm thinking of more along the lines of splicing a switch onto the fuel pump wire. Not sure if that's a good idea, yet.

However since you asked - Here's my list of concern for wanting to add a kill switch to my R53.

• I've recently moved to a city/state where by reputation, has one of the highest rates for break-ins, property theft and most notably car theft.
• There are not many Minis around here and my car has constantly drawn an unprecedented amount of attention which has made me a little concerned.
• The apartment complex I now reside in, seems to have an inordinate (uncomfortable) amount of young, non resident "fast n furious" car guy types that come and go or hang out in the parking lot. The managers are making more of a effort to curtail the unwanted activities but without much immediate progress.
• More importantly - A couple of days ago I lost one of my keys in the parking lot. I only realized this just 30min after parking the car. I re-traced my steps in hopes in finding the key - to no avail. The key was nowhere to be found and (not citing accusations here), neither were the young car guys who were last seen hanging around in the parking lot.
• Perhaps, I may sound a bit paranoid here but - I've been told on numerous occasions; by the locals and law enforcement to pay close attention as the threat for car theft is very real possibility. That being said - You might imagine my concerns.

Besides implementing some sort of kill switch, I'm also in need of sourcing info on a replacement key, cutting and successfully programming a new key FOB to work with my 1st gen pre-facelift. However unfortunate; I think as I have read and understand it, that all of this has to be done/through by the $$ Dealer $$ for the 1st gen models(?).

Although it did come to mind....I don't think @valvashon /The Mini Key Doctor can help me (program) in this particular scenario should I'm able to get a new key FOB .

My apologies for the whining and long-winded post.

 

... easy way would to be wire in a battery isolator switch (like a race car) to the NEG side coming off the battery, the question is where do you want the switch to live?

 

@JABowders - Interesting. Thanks!
I've been disconnecting the battery every evening the past 2wo nights. The battery being under the mat in the hatch is a bit of a pain but not as annoying as having to reset my clock every time I re-connect the battery.
Not sure cutting the power to the car so often what effect it may have on the ECU (if any ???).....Which is kind of why, I was kind of leaning towards cutting the power to the fuel source/pump.

 

I have a remote master disconnect switch from American Autowire installed in my van, but that doesn’t really sound like what you want (though they do sell a memory retainer that you could use to retain settings on low-power things). I did run across an anti-theft relay that they sell. It looks like it’s intended to be wired into the ignition.

 

Since you have managed to lose a key a kill switch is a pretty good idea. MINI no longer offers most first and second generation keys for sale so you would need to find a component locksmith or mobile automotive key maker to create one for you. It's a two step complicated process so make sure you use somebody who has created BMW/MINI keys before. What the dealer can do for you is to strike the immobilizer chip in the lost key from the list in the anti-theft module of keys that have the ability to start the car. They should also be able to remove the remote from the list of remotes in the BC1 (I believe that's the computer name) if it was a remote key. Your key maker may be able to do this also. The boy-racer crowd could still unlock the door with the blade but that's all that can be done with a disabled key.

The only key available for the early models is the post-facelift non-remote key, which will not work for your car.

Val

 

^^^ $$$ Yikes!! $$$ ^^^

 

I've only read (somewhere) that a pre-facelift key Fob, new or used w/circuit board can be had online from Allmag, eBay or AliExpress. I haven't yet looked, but wonder if anyone had any success in reprogramming these things?
Or am I missing the point/larger scope as
@valvashon has emphasized above?

 

If your goal is to prevent the engine from starting, the way I see it you could either put a switch on the fuel pump, which would still allow the engine to crank if someone got in your car. Since there is a relay for the fuel pump, you could put the switch on the control side of the relay or the output side. My preference is the control side.

You could put a switch on the clutch pedal switch, which would prevent the engine even cranking.

You could put a switch on the signal wire to the starter, which also would prevent the engine from cranking.

All of those are low amperage circuits as opposed to putting in a battery disconnect switch and also likely less expensive to get a simple switch and some bulk wire. Also leaving battery power to the rest of your car has some advantages.

On a previous car I owned, I had to wire a switch to control the fuel pump relay since my ECM lost the ability to do so. It was funny to have people try to start my car without knowledge of my switch.

 

As far as the remote part of the key goes, cars are programmed, not keys. When you could get a new, two button key from the dealer, it came with a barcode tag; that number had to be put into the car's BC1 computer via the dealer hooking their programming computer to the car and coding it in. New aftermarket remotes are also available with the barcode tag; the procedure is the same but dealers will not do this with aftermarket keys which is why you need to find somebody who can code your car to accept commands from the remote board. The remote board sends out the digital signal it was created to send out today and forever more, there is no "programming" of the remote boards for these keys. They are what they are and send out what they send out. OEM remotes have a 6 digit code on the board itself; if you look into the dark recesses of the internet you will find people who can create the barcode number from this 6 digit code but it isn't me. In this way you can re-use a remote board from a different MINI provided it is the same frequency as your car (315 MHz here in the U.S.)

The other part of these keys is the immobilizer/anti-theft chip. Those can be programmed if one has a key making device that hooks to the EWS computer via the OBD-II port. The next available anti-theft chip "slot" is found and then the new anti-theft chip is programmed or written to. The key then works to start the car. These chips are write-once devices meaning you can't use one from another car.

 

Can't you just buy a steering wheel lock? It has the added benefit of preventing a break in.

Also here in The Netherlands I can still buy keyfobs at the dealer. I would call one up before assuming a "no"

 

When I saw the title of this thread, I assumed you needed it to qualify for a specific class of race cars on the track. Sounds like your car is at high risk of being jacked. Whatever the fix costs, it will be dollars well spent!

 

Seems like one heck of a problem. Personally i would tap into the Ignition barrel wiring, you could then hide a toggle switch in the glovebox or under the knee plate directly in front of you.

There is a few wires you could play with here which will easily stop the car from running. black/blue wire is for starter, red is constant 12v, there is apparently two ignition wires here also which are green and purple/black.

 

i also bought a key recently from the dealer. not very expensive if i remember right

 

@valvashon is absolutely right. As my quest to finding a new 1st gen, 2 button key fob SOURCED FROM THE DEALER , has been met with a stanch disappointing - "sorry NLA". I had contacted several MINI/BMW dealers ; ABQ NM, Mini of Alexandria VA and Global Mini Atlanta GA. All of which could not source a (1st or 2nd gen) key fob in their database/warehouse - in addition, all of the dealers no longer maintain or have the software to be able to code the car of this age. They're only up to date on newer models. It was suggested by one dealer that my only option (if I could find a key) would be to find an independent BMW/MINI shop that specializes in older models. This is exactly what valvashon had explained above. If I am lucky enough to score a pair of OEM key fobs, I can always change/re-pin the outside door handle to match the new/used keys. Although, Finding an relabel, honest independent shop out here that can perform the programming won't be easy. The search continues.

Now on to the easy part of this whole dilemma:
Meanwhile; I'm in the process of finishing up a 2wo step / 2wo sequence kill switch. I'm incredibly happy with how and where I've managed to conceal the switches.

@ssoliman - Where is the dealer located from which you were able to score your key/FOB? - Is your Mini pre 2005 (2 button remote) ?

 

momentum mini in Houston

yes 2004 r53 with two button key

 

i get the idea of doing what you can to maintain security, but if your car is a manual transmission, it's gonna be incredibly easy to get inside, put it in neutral, and tow it away. then they'll figure out how to defeat whatever you did.

if you're worried about the key specifically, maybe you'll have to get a different (whichever) module and reprogram the keys.

 

Thanks for the tip!
I called Momentum Mini - Unfortunately (like all dealers so far) show zero availability. Momentum also states/shows on back order.
I've contacted AllMag - They offered me a package deal (not listed online) for 2wo used OEM keys, EWS, DME, ignition and door lock cylinders (all from the same car) for the same price for a new key from the dealer.
After all is said an done - I hope it's all "plug 'n' play"...(?)
@valvashon - Your thoughts? Anything I should be aware of that I'm missing/unaware of?

Yep - I get it.
No matter what I do, there is no preventative for a car being stolen. All it really takes is a brick, some savvy hot-wiring, or as you'd mentioned -a tow truck. But right now someone has my key.. Sure they can get in. But now (I've installed 2wo kill switches),in lieu of a tow truck, at least they can't easily start and drive off with the car without spending a fair amount of time looking for the installed deterrents. If a criminal is enamored as I am about my Mini to steal it; as the saying goes - "If there is a will, there is a way".

 

During the pandemic, my 2004 R53 Dinan Mini Cooper S unfortunately didn't get as much track time as it deserved. The result of it sitting is that the battery kept going dead. The solution was to wire a battery isolator switch like the one shown below onto the negative battery terminal wire in the trunk under the floor mat. You just have to remember to lock the car before you remove the key and disconnect the battery.
One other minor downside of this is that you have to keep lifting the back seat to get to the manual rear hatch release each time to get to the switch.

 

If a tow truck is used in the theft, I would think it would be relatively easy to ID it with all the cameras mounted to traffic lights these days. Where I live, I rely on the fact that all my vehicles are manual to prevent anyone from driving away with them. In fact, the last time I brought my R61 in to a nationally branded tire outfit to switch out the winter tires, only one out of 4 or 5 'mechanics' could drive it in from the parking lot.

 

A note of caution for anyone who finds themselves faced with the same unfortunate circumstances as me...
In my quest for a replacement key; @valvashon makes an important note (above in bold and highlighted in red), with regards to specific 315 MHZ for our 1st gen/US Mini's.
I had found a few OEM and aftermarket key FOBs with circuit boards and chips included - but soon discovered they were 433 MHZ (and not 315 MHZ) which would not work with my Mini.

 

sad to hear that the dealer is not offering the key anymore. Is that all keys for all gen 1 mini's? so how would you get a new key if it were lost?

 

There's a guy on the forum who does key repair, prices vary on service. He may have an option... Of course, I don't know his name lol. Mini key doctor, I think?

He was great to deal with on my keys, fwiw...

 

Yes - That would be @valvashon .
I'm pretty certain that he only repairs broken key Fobs and circuit boards - not programing.