I just purchased a 2006 R53 no mods. I have been on the fence about buying Mini for years because of the reported poor reliability issues. I jumped on this 2006 because it was the last of the 1st gen and I figured most of the issues had been worked out by then. Secondly I find that the Mini has a strong emotional pull and I might be far more tolerant of issues as well as accept that "because its a Mini" it comes with the territory. I currently own a 2018 Audi Q5 (56,000), 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (112,000) and a 1959 GMC pickup (who knows). Still on my insurance are my three boys, 1998 Ford Ranger (203,000), 2005 Toyota Matrix (284,000) and a 2006 Honda Civic (245,000). So multiple brands, ages and reputations. I keep a running list of all things done to my cars so I have a good idea of maintenance and repairs. This got me thinking about reliability. I love stock cars and never modify them, except for perhaps a repair that might be better served with an improved part. Also each of the cars has a different driving profile such as the Jeep going off road will get a different life than the Audi which gets high speed highway driving. I maintain a reasonable maintenance schedule on the fleet. I have already noticed that my choices on the Mini are different. I am replacing the original alternator because it has 131,000 miles and it was on sale. It also takes any possible future electrical issues out of the equation (in theory). I am also replacing the bypass valve because of mileage and my boost gauge seems to be showing wrong numbers (long story). Control arms bushings need to be replaced but I will also replace swaybar links, inner/outer ball joints, swaybar bushings, outer tie rods. Why? Because it is a challenge and rewarding to work on your own car, troubleshoot and hope to resolve an issue(s) Also I will be dropping the subframe so as many have said, do what you can while in there. I am the forth owner of the car and the last person worked at a repair shop and got it from a client who was having some significant "supercharger" issues. He fixed it up at cost and no labor and drove it for a few years. I downloaded the Carfax and have those "documented" repairs, but any diy repairs/maintenance service will not be recorded. So data might be incomplete. The majority of work I do see was when it "broke" down....I think, I might be wrong but it was a tensioner that broke and caused issues. As you will see I bought a Mini that has had a reasonable amount of repairs done based on age as well as a single event recently so my thinking was that I have a fairly strong mechanical car and now its my turn. Overall any car that showed this level of "work" would not surprise me or concern me. I did not feel like this is a money pit, but this car is so fun to drive that I already know I will accept more issues than perhaps is desired. So with all that said here is the "history"

09/06/2011 32,701
Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned
Air filter replaced
Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Brake fluid flushed/changed
Brake fluid checked
Oil and filter changed
Engine/powertrain computer/module
checked

03/01/2016 45,847
Oil and filter changed

03/03/2017 55,063
Oil and filter changed

07/13/2017 57,220
High mount brake light assembly
replaced

06/20/2018 73,323
Oil and filter changed

07/24/2019 99,965
Oil and filter changed
Drain plug gasket replaced

12/31/2019
Minor damage to rear
Minor damage to front

02/28/2020 113,894
Air filter replaced
Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Oil and filter changed

07/10/2020 116,888
Fuel system cleaned/serviced
Oil and filter changed
Drain plug gasket replaced
Power steering fluid flushed/changed

08/24/2020 119,066
Oil and filter changed

09/16/2020 119,194
Oil and filter changed
Fluids checked
Body lubricated
Tires rotated

10/14/2020 119,600
Left front seatbelt buckle replaced

12/10/2020 120,000
Fuel filler cap replaced

07/06/2021 120,001
Serpentine belt replaced
Drive belt(s) replaced
Valve cover gasket(s) replaced
Brake master cylinder cap replaced

08/30/2021 123,968
Oil and filter changed
Fluids checked
Body lubricated

03/24/2022 125,857
Power steering fluid leak checked
Power steering hose(s)/line(s)replaced
Power steering Reservoir Replaced
Tire valve stem(s)/core(s) replaced
Tire(s) balanced
Tire(s) mounted
Tires(s) P195/55R16 87V Extensa A/S II BW B Toyo 5 Years / 65,000 Miles (V-Speed Rated)
Engine Harmonic Balancer
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
Supercharger Oil
Antifreeze coolant replaced
Drive Belt Kit includes tensioner
Wiper Blades
Engine Mount x 2
Water Pump
Cabin Air Filter
Air Filter
Spark Plugs Bosch FGR-7-DQP+, NGK BKR6EQUP (3199) x 4
Water Hose Water Pump to Water Pipe
Radiator Hose
Radiator Hose Radiator to Breather Tube
Water Hose - Breather Tube after Upper Radiator Hose
Thermostat
Thermostat Housing - Aluminum
Air Intake Hose

03/24/2022 125,869
Oil and filter changed Castrol 5w-30 SYN
CV boot(s) inner replaced
Lube Chassis

09/20/2022 126,697
Coolant reservoir replaced
Engine oil filler cap/seal replaced
CV boot(s) replaced
Oil and filter changed

05/10/2023 127,000
Brakes serviced

PURCHASED 02/10/2024
02/10/2024 131,400
Windshield wiper blades Michelin Endurance XT Silicone Wiper Blade (Optimum) 18 (driver) 19 (passenger) $27
OEM Floor Mats $55
OEM Trunk Mat $61
Front and Rear Badges $77
DMV $106
AMP-ENG-190 Tensioner Stop ~$31 To prevent future failure of tensioner
SunShade $13 Amazon
Touchup Paint $29 Dark Silver
Throttle Body cleaned
Oil Filter $11 Amazon Mann 816/x2
Oil Change Castrol 5w-30 SYN 5 qt
Added Power Steering Fluid - CHF 11S $28
Bypass Valve $111 Pelican Parts
Bosch Alternator (rebuilt) 105 Amp - 12317515030 - AL-9434-X $187 Preventative Purchase (on sale)
Center Arm Rest Ebay $14

SUSPENSION
Tie Rods $58/49 Lemfoerder Pelican Parts $56/55
SwayBar Bushings OEM BMW Pelican Parts $10/10
Swaybar End Links Lemfoerder Pelican Parts $18/18
LCA Bushings with Bracket Meyle HD Pelican Parts $82/81
Outer Ball Joint Lemfoerder Pelican Parts $25/25
Inner Ball Joint Lemfoerder Pelican Parts $30/$44

 

Nice looking car.
Seems like it has been reasonably kept an eye on followed by repairs/replacements.
Early in it's life - Oil changes seem to be spread way too far apart in my opinion. But that's just me.

Looks pretty nice for an 18y/o, well maintained with a fairly good maintenance record.

Congratulations!

 

Hopefully that’s a very incomplete service history.

 

The problem with a CarFax is that if the repair shop didn't record it or did so incorrectly its just bad data. With any repair as a DIY guy, what proof do I have as to the maintenance, receipts, notes? Did I do it right? Perhaps I created a new issue because of my lack of knowledge, etc. I wish as a DIYer I could add to Carfax Data like the repair shops. It is always a leap of faith when buying a car and its history. I find that if the car looks clean - meaning, cockpit buttons and dials are not worn off, fabrics are not stained or soiled, free of odors, curb rash is min, paint looks like it has been protected. Knowing that some things only last 4-6 years, if there is no record or replacement then I have some concerns. I suppose that all comes from experience. I mentioned earlier that I am replacing the alternator, looks original, works fine and normally would not be an replaceable item at this point. However I am at 131,000 miles, 18 years and the alternator was on sale. So this was a preemptive move. So the point of my post is to see if others would share their "history" and see if there really is a above normal repair schedule on the Mini. Also if a person replaces a part because they want to improve it, when the old part was working fine that is not a reliability issue. The history of oil changes does see to be lacking....did repair shop not record it? DIY? or lets assume worst case, infrequent overdue oil changes. Well then I applaud the toughness of this engine! Here I am 18 years later with no observed oil related issues.

 

These days it seems hard to find many cars with service "history". Based on the "mechanics" and the work I have seen performed in the past, I am not personally inclined to trust their work either. So, the service history issue for me is pretty moot. I think you are right about the care given to the interior and exterior. If a car is beat to hell inside and out, I can pretty much surmise that the engine/trans have also not been cared for.

All that said, these cars are 20 years old. They will all have issues. Gaskets and seals will deteriorate/leak- even low mile, garage kept cream puffs. My preference is to buy the car as cheap as possible and then simply do all of the maintenance myself. This way I can document the "service". And I can ensure it's done right, with decent parts.

With 131k on you car, I don't care how clean she is, there will be things that need to be addressed.

Welcome.

 

Yeah, I don’t put much stock in Carfax or most mechanics either. Just taking it at face value though, there’s an excessive amount of time between oil changes, coolant changes, and brake flushes. The amount of cooling system work done might be a clue that the coolant changes really were done far too infrequently, but who knows?

There are also items that haven’t been noted as being addressed that will have already needed to be replaced. The struts were likely toast years ago, and I would be shocked if the upper front mounts aren’t damaged. The facelift cars eat upper motor mounts like nobody’s business. Etc., etc.

Also, what’s body/chassis lube even doing in the service history? Oil changes at some quick lube place?

But it’s hard to say much of anything definitive without hands on the car.

 

Everything seems to be standard fare for servicing, though the early owner waited until the oil monitor said so to change the oil. My '05 MCS has always had oil changes every 5k miles (I know the first owner) , I had the SC serviced at 140k when I changed the clutch, and its still going great guns at 197k miles on the original SC (I do have a new one awaiting failure though). AS you alluded to, shocks and bushings are probably in need of replacement, do be careful with removing the retaining bolt for the fronts that pass through the steering knuckle, If you bodge one, its not a good thing.
The car looks like its been taken care of, so you should have a lot of fun with it.
HTH<

 

Can you clarify the "retaining bolt" in the steering knuckle issue? Also I poked around last night and can see that the front sway bar has red bushings. Clearly those have been replaced. Also I inspected the strut mounts from the top and both look clean and free of any cracks. When I measured from the dust cap to the top of the tower mount the driver side was 3/8" The passenger is a bit less, so it does have some "mounding" I didn't take the wheels off yet but I can make out the the words Delphi on the struts. Here are some videos of the suspension before I make any changes.

 

People have broken the pinch bolt in the knuckle that holds the strut in place. I expect if your car is as clean underneath as it is on top that it will be fine though. I had no issues with mine.

It’s good that the sway bar bushings have been changed. That likely means the subframe has been out of the car. It would be difficult (maybe impossible?) to change them otherwise.

You should also check strut tower flatness. There’s a decent chance they’re damaged. I had some minor mushrooming in my car, and I’ve always run lightweight 15” wheels with normal tires.

 

The front shocks are mounted into a slotted pocket in the steering knuckle, there's an M12 bolt that goes through the slot and clamps it onto the shock. Water and muck get down the slot and can cause the bolt to rust into the knuckle. The bolt also goes through a tab that's part of the shock to ensure the shock stays put. If you happen to snap that bolt as I did, its a royal pain to remove the whole assembly in order to drill out the bolt and tap out the remainder, especially since the shock remains attached due to the tab.
Hit the slot and the open end of the tapped hole with a rust penetrant well and repeatedly before you start to change the shocks out, especially if you live in a rust prone area.
Hope this helps when you get in there.

 

I pulled subframe on Saturday and struts on Sunday. The struts came out like butter. The bolt has signs of rust on some of the threads but I can clean those up easily. the bolts never caused any issues either. Thanks for the advice, as I was mentally prepared to fight it.