. Nice looking installation and what brand CC are you running?

 

Got it off Amazon. Rulline. (Overseas knock off). The lines that come with it are garbage. But it works well.




Post 146 here has some more info from the project
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4502753

 

What's it like draining the can from that location? Can you get it done without removing the can?

 

The bottom of the can screws off but the location I chose doesn't really allow for that. I just pull the hoses, undo the nut off the studs and pull the whole can out. I only do it about once a year so it's not a big deal to me.

 

After searching various options I found something worth considering for anyone needing to eliminate extra hose line or for building out your own system. Before I go any further, I know there are better options out there considering silicone, pre-bent SAE30 etc. but I just needed something to address the PCV 180 from the valve cover to the can using the stuff I already dialed in and here it is...

HIMARKLIF PCV hose #12619363

This is a replacement PCV component for GMC Terrain, Chevy Equinox (available on Amazon) that comes with a bit of SAE 30 on one end and plastic attachment on the other which I intend to remove. The open end should fit right into the existing hose line that is currently frankensteined together with plastic connectors. It's not metal tubing but a semi-flexible "flourorubber" similar to the grey PCV return line that goes down into the supercharger. I will shoot a before and after once installed.

 

Tablespoon of oil is enough to coat the intercooler and mess with the ability of the intercooler to dump heat.

 

After a quick trimming of the SAE30 hose to install the new pre-fab PCV line, I ran it for a couple drives to see if the engine heat would shape the part and it did a little bit. So I removed it, hit it with the heat gun to give it a sharper, spoon shaped 180 bend (too much heat can cause it to collapse btw) and this is the final result. I also switched the lines on the can since the tubes are making a cleaner approach instead of all the extra length from using the connectors that came with the unit (photos are before, during and after). No lights on the dash so far. Important to note that the PCV mod line looks unchanged in these photos, but trust me when I say the pressure from the wide "U" shaped bend was pushing the line under the intercooler. After moulding it with the heat gun, that tension is almost non-existent and after switching connections the hose sits in a relaxed manner.

original hose and connectors supplied

hose with modified Chevy PCV line

original excess hose after removal with trapped oil visible inside

final mod

 

After shopping for a smaller catch can, the 6oz Turner model looks good, mostly because it comes with a rotating valve to quickly drain the thing without hassle. Meanwhile, I was getting the crank pulley swapped at the garage this past week and found this in the bay... looks showroom floor new. I gotta step the game up on my engine bay

 

I had to settle for an 8oz instead of a 6oz, but finally got around to swapping everything out. The biggest change was the use of AN10 fittings and changing the mounting location. Before anyone asks, I did consider tucking it behind the plastic barrier, but figured the space inside that pocket would be too clumsy for the draining process. The Turner can was ordered from ECS Tuning, while the hose, clamps and Evil Energy AN fittings were ordered from Amazon. Overall I am pleased with having a catch can, so far I have not developed the usual sluggish throttle response from the abundant PCV pollution and the improved hose assembly goes without saying.

Note: I replaced the included AN12 can fittings with smaller AN10's for the sake of convenience.

Cut away and drilled with rotary tool.

The notch is for the dip stick that I'll probably never use.
[img alt="The minimal bracket is sturdy at 4mm thicc
"]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.northamericanmotoring.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_4944_f21995f52e841cd11ca8f744b035ef62fe52b95e. jpeg[/img]
The minimal bracket is sturdy at 4mm thicc

Only came with 2 hardware bolts though

Not sure how this will work out on my next oil filter change, but I figure rotating this cap to the right should give enough space

Had to carve out a little more room for the dipstick ****

Install complete, the line-in hose empties into the baffles, there is a copper scrub pad sitting inside as well.

I recommend using some captive bolts for mounting on this plastic barrier (these are about 1" long) the lower profile could easily allow the can to go inside this pocket.

A glimpse of the oil filter housing.

 

Looks good. I originally had mine in this position but ended up moving it behind the plastic shroud. My main reason for getting a catch can (I got the M7) is to help cool off any vapor returning to the intake as I have a R50 and want to do as much as I possibly can to keep things cool and preserve horsepower, so having it right above the exhaust manifold didn't make sense. You're right, having it behind the shroud makes it a bit more inconvenient for draining, but I've never had to drain mine; the purpose is just to help with cooling. I'll post some photos sometime.

 

In this photo the breather filter (small red filter) is in the air intake when the pressure builds, and the vaper will get vented, and it will get sucked into the cabin.



Motor On!

 

Just for anyone that's interested. I picked up the gtt tuning catch can a few years ago. It's bling I know, but if it works at all then it's worth it. And, it has a built in dipstick.

It mounts to the stud where the ground strap attached to the frame rain on the passengers side. It's super easy to install and none of the struggling to sort install. Hope this helps someone.

 

@JABowders That original set up actually threw codes! Too much ventilation I guess, but this was later capped off completely and the ECU fault dropped off. That small red filter was me compensating for the missing level indicator tube that got broken before I bought it. The original owner of the can sold it to me for a good price because of that.

 

@2out2sea that looks like an excellent spot for it, show us what it looks like with the hoses connected please. Getting the lines in without causing too much unnecessary tension is another challenge, because that return line running down the front under the intercooler is a bit fragile.

 

Pics of when I first installed the catch can. I hope this helps.

 

Rather ironic and timely resurrection of this thread as I'm nearing my next (3,500 mi) oil change interval. It's been 5,800 miles since I last siphoned out the oil deposit from my catch can.


A little over 40ml 0r just under 1.5oz oil collected and siphoned from my can.

Pulled the hoses and saw no indication of accumulated oil in the return/intake line.
Until I pull the and inspect the intercooler....It seems to be doing a fair enough job from what I can see right now.

 

@2out2sea Impressive and clean engine bay.
Your Catch can setup looks to be the best and most effective placement I've seen so far...(my cabrio braces occupy that space)
Nice!.

 

That's true, stashing it below the valve cover with the return line running upwards like that guarantees maximum vapor catch. There's plenty of room there for it as well, wish I had seen this beforehand.

 

[QUOTE=deepgrey;4661718]I’m confused. The Tritec uses port injection. I won’t claim that a catch can isn’t beneficial though - several people here run them.QUOTE]
I ran Misimoto Catch cans on both my 2022 Ford Raptor & 2023 BMW M540 and was throwing codes . Took the M540 over to dealer and they said to remove because it will void the warranty ( pls note: the dash lights went out after removing ) ; quickly solving the problem. Also, removed CC from the Raptor too…