Having driven my Mini for an extended trip the other day - I noticed some unusual (to me) vibration while accelerating.
Off the line in 1st and 2nd gear, at moderate acceleration between 3,000 - 4,000 rpms and in higher cruising gears 4th - 5th between 3,500 - 4,200 rpms with more aggressive acceleration - I can feel vibration in the steering wheel and more unusual (to me) in the foot pedals.
This is only during normal (non aggressive acceleration), moderate aggressive and powering up hills.
I have street powerflex mounts throughout.
The control arm bushings are need of changing.
Car drives perfectly straight with no weird noise while turning/rounding curves.

I'm currently experiencing back problems - the only thing I could check for right now were; lug tightness and missing wheel weights.

Would appreciate any insight or similar experience you may have had.

Thanks.

 

Maybe clutch starting to slip?

 

Yep, Daft - I have this uneasy feeling you maybe right.
The car still "pulls" like normal but...
It's been almost 38 years since I had experienced similar symptoms in a different car.
Now I remember. Now that you've mentioned it.

I was thinking it may be a worn axle going out of round/vertical movement.
Or hoping it was as simple as the lower engine mount come loose.

I'll check these out when I am able to crawl under the car again.

 

Just in case, visually check the engine mounts, especially the lower one, which is in a prime spot to catch any oil leak that will quickly deteriorate it. Obviously you'll need to crawl under the car for that.

Symptom of worn lower engine mount for me was a small vibration in the steering wheel at idle, but it never hurt to double check it.

 

Not on my computer and forget what year your car is, but if you have the upper hydraulic mount on the passenger side, that thing can cause all sorts of noise and vibrations. I replaced the one on my wife's 06 just after she got it, and it was night and day. Her car was vibrating, making all sorts of racket... At idle and during acceleration. But her mount was toast. I'd imagine the symptoms would be less aggressive when one starts to go bad.

 

Thanks.
My Mini is pre-facelift 04 R53. built 10.03. It is a bit of an oddity because it came brand new off the line with some facelift components.
Nevertheless: I have powerflex poly bushing mounts throughout. With the exception of the upper engine mount which is OEM rubber (not hydraulic) and only 2.5 years old with no signs of degradation/wear.
The upper vibration mount (right side near firewall) is only a year old and poly filled.
This car never had any kind of vibration issues or dash rattles.
The vibration during acceleration is new.
I didn't seem to feel any power loss during acceleration. I don't drive the car hard - i.e: nice moderate smooth acceleration shifting gears @ 3,5 - 4k rpms. But I have had it up to 110mph recently.
No noise from the transmission but the vibration can be felt at the pedals...as well as slight vibration at the steering wheel. I see no signs of transmission fluid leaks or wetness.
Everything smooths out after reaching a steady rate of speed.

I recall many years ago, with another performance car I drove, when it started to experience (similar) clutch failure; there was slippage, vibration and I could smell the clutch and hot transmission fluid.
The current concerns/symptoms with the Mini - I don't smell any clutch or fluid stench and the car seems to shift fine for the most part.

I plan on pushing the car a little harder tomorrow morning, evaluate the mounts and with any luck will be in better condition to crawl under the car to have a better touchy, feely look.

EDIT: The car idles super smooth = no vibration (never has even at idle).

 

Possible Clutch or because is FWD the control arm mounts are allowing movement when under load leading to vibrations.
jsut a guess.

 

My wife's cars' front control arm bushings were toast - the driver's side was mostly disintegrated. I was really surprised how little change resulted when I cut the old ones out and installed the powerflex ones. I was expecting a massive difference. There was a difference, but it was incremental. Could be though I suppose.

What about the balancer? Was that also a replaced item? When those begin to go, all sorts of things can occur.

EDIT: unrelated to this thread - I must have tossed my old door lock module. I searched for it a few days ago to see if I could get actuation by powering up some of the wires, but I must have tossed it. Sorry.

 

Well, I'm happy to say; I don't think it's my clutch.
I ran the car moderately aggressive this morning. Ambient temp was about 71° F , Mini at operating temp: water temp @ 200° F , oil temp @ 212° F = in town and expressway for about 17 mi. shifting between 4,000 - 5,800 rpms through various gears. Boosting between 12 & 14 +hg.
Occasionally hitting the pedal hard @ cruising speed the Mini pulled great with no signs of clutch slipping or vibration.
I preformed the similar tests (when I could), this afternoon during heavier traffic conditions. Ambient temp @ 94°F, water @ 215° F , oil temp @ 215°. I felt no clutch issues or slipping while even pulling from a dead stop on a hill.

Although it seemed so strange - I could not reproduce the vibration with the same intensity that initially concerned me. I felt no vibration in the pedals. Perhaps a slight vibration in the steering wheel but nothing to indicate a major problem.
It may very well have been the condition of the road I was traveling on (30 mi), that may have contributed to the vibration effecting any worn parts (?)... I know my front struts are near toast.
As silly as it may seem - I did kick the front tires - hard. I observed and felt no movement. That is not to suggest my control arm bushings are in top shape either.

I have nearly $2,000 in new front end and performance parts sitting in my livingroom for a complete overhaul of my subframe, Which I plan to perform a couple of weeks from now.
I'm still in no condition to perform any strenuous activities or crawling underneath the car.
At any rate - in the meantime I'll have a closer look at my engine and transmission mounts and post what I may discover.

Thanks.

 

Hope you feel better soon. When you are able to do that check the harmonic balancer too just to eliminate it as a possible culprit.

 

I know you previously said you were installing lowering springs? Some have reported front end vibrations after installing front lowering springs.

 

Not at all silly. Mod MINI even does it.

 

Sorry guys -
It happened again today. Going up hill from a stop.
It almost feels like the front tires are cumming off the ground.
I had a sooped up Beetle years ago that exhibited the same symptoms when accelerating hard from a stop. The rear wheels shuttered and bounced horrendously up and down = broken transmission mount and crappy rear shocks.
Therefore I suspect my front shocks are blown.
To coincide with @njaremka's point - I do have 2wo year old inexpensive front lowering springs on the car as well.
The good news is - I have (thanks to @njaremka coil over recommendation), a brand new set of Bilstein B14 coilovers just waiting to be installed

@jcolletteiii I did a visual inspection of my crank pulley in motion. I mounted my phone in view of the pulley(s) and mirrorcast to my laptop as I sat in the car and revved the engine (5,000rpms). Everything spun smooth as silk with absolutely no vibration.
Granted - the car was not under load.

I'm still hoping to be able to crawl under the car this weekend.

 

These are all high torque / high load conditions which could indicate clutch but not exclude CV axles / joints, hubs or some other part of the drivetrain and front end failing under acute stress. Since the subframe is coming down soon, not a bad time to renew them along with everything else.

Would retorque all these and anything that got unfastened to replace them. Still voting clutch most likely culprit but at least a few less things may be rattling around in conjunction with it...

 

Fitting lowering springs which are stiffer than factory without a change in dampeners (shocks/struts) can shorten the life of the stock dampeners.

The behavior doesn't suggest clutch to me. But you can test the clutch. With everything up to temperature take the car out and in 4th gear (or the gear which is closest to 1:1 -- usually 5th and 6th are over drive gears) at around 2K - 2.5K RPMs floor the gas pedal. If engine RPMs go up with no corresponding increase in vehicle speed the clutch is slipping. There is no need to repeat the test. If the clutch slips it is done.

You also mention the control arm bushings are in need of changing.

Think you should change the control arm bushings. Install the coil overs. While you are under the car check CV bearings for excessive play. Once you have the bushings/coil overs in the car have the car in for a proper alignment.

 

At least one of my initial suspicion(s) was correct.
Drivetrain, transmission, clutch = no problems.
All mounts were in great condition and locked down. = no problem.
Top hat strut bearings perfect and locked down to torque specs. = no problem

Passenger side axle... problem.
The center carrier bearing bracket bolts had backed out.
Although there was no knock, clicking or rattle noise - there was enough vertical movement to cause the vibration.
(I have brand new OEM rebuilt axles for replacement for when I refresh the subframe)

Thanks for all your input. Very, very much appreciated.
I can't thank you enough!

 

Nicely solved and thanks for posting the end result.

 

I had a similar issue last year. Mine turned out to be the bearing in my transmission differential. Would vibrate under acceleration. Then stop when letting of throttle. Ended up doing a 6 speed conversion.

 

Nice to hear you found the issue!

 

Interesting. I have similar issues. a Oct/Nov 2003 here and just replaced a very shot motor mount with the vibratechnics, and although the replacement helped fix the 'bounciness' i had experienced with my suspension (apparently when you put swift springs in and have a shot motor mount, the engine bounces too), now I am getting some vibration in the steering wheel and pedals. Feels like there is a general lower frequency resonating in the whole car now even when everything else seems fine. Drove for at least a year with this motor mount shot. Everything else is poly bushes that have been in place for a year. Where did you get the OEM rebuilt axles, and what does the rebuild entail? Just redoing boots and re-greasing?

 

I had originally purchased a Left CV axle, 14 months ago, from Cardone/Amazon, which was mentioned on a video as being re-manufactured (OEM).
Well, I received the wrong one. So I returned it. I had little luck trying to make sure Cardone sent me the correct axle for a pre-facelift R53 (part #included).

Having followed a link from a more complete video; I wound up buying a pair of both L&R CV axles from DTA/Amazon.
They're still sitting in a their original box (13months now). The parts are correct for my model R53. However, I see no indication as to them being remanufactured OEM.
My confusion.
I have yet to install them but I trust ModMini's judgement and expertise and feeling confident in my (alternate) choice.

BTW: One clue that lead me to discover the R side axle carrier was loose was - I inadvertently let the clutch out, in gear while the car was parked. When the car lurched forward I could feel the engine move and in the steering wheel.
I expected to find my powereflexed lower engine mount to be worn or loose but it became obvious when I grabbed the passenger axle and noticed the unusual movement and slight grind noise against the bolt threads.
Tightened down the 3 bolts which proved to be the remedy to my vibration problem.

 

Question :

@Here2Go is there a difference for 6 speed manual r53 between facelift and non facelift re axles? I was going to steal the good ones from my PFL parts car fro my sons FL JCW which has torn boots. Seems same knuckle/spindle, and same trans, I figured they would be the same?


and reading it seems these are the DTA aftermarket alternatives to cardone, which on other applications are very hit n miss QA wise, correct?

 

I don't think there is a difference between pre facelift and facelift axles. Can always double-check here. Very useful for identifying part numbers
https://parts.seattlemini.com/

 

As from my understanding as well -
I think Andrid is correct in answer to Onizukachan's question.
The initial L CV axle I had received from Cardone appeared to be a bit longer in length and the splines seemed different.

@Onizukachan - Yes those aftermarket DTA,s are the ones I ordered from the video link.
I trust they'll be the same fitment as my pre-facelift R53.