R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 R52 Reinforcement braces on a R53

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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 03:28 PM
  #51  
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It appears that the mounting hole for the bottom brace is about 2-7/8" out from the edge/base of the engine mount bracket.
 

Last edited by Here2Go; Mar 3, 2023 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2023 | 05:34 PM
  #52  
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Thanks for that. When I was playing around with the fit earlier, I couldn't be exact but could tell that it would be close. There will probably be a little overlap between the existing hole (assuming there is one) and the hole required for the rivnut.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2023 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Here2Go
'wasn't sure which forum applies to this question.
I have come across a couple of discussion in the past with regards to adding/fitting R52 reinforcement (chassis) braces on a R50 - R53 1st gen Mini.
Unfortunately in my search; I can't seem to land on the right thread.
Just curious - Do these braces alone add any benefit?
I just put some on my 06 JCW. My mini is pretty much just used at the track. Anything that makes the chassis more stiff is generally a good thing, so that was my rationale for installing them.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...cw-thread.html
 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 09:02 AM
  #54  
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BTW; Without sounding pretentious
The simple magnet test is an easy way to determine whether these factory support braces are chrome moly or mild steel.
Since I don't have factory braces - I would really like to know.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 09:43 AM
  #55  
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^^^OK, you made me go look (again) and check...
Using rare earth style pickup magnet, cabrio braces NOT chromemoly...




 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 05:05 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Here2Go
BTW; Without sounding pretentious
The simple magnet test is an easy way to determine whether these factory support braces are chrome moly or mild steel.
Since I don't have factory braces - I would really like to know.
If chrome moly = stainless, nothing is ever made from stainless on 'normal' cars. Stainless is very expensive compared to carbon steel.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2023 | 05:25 PM
  #57  
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I dropped in to report on the magnet test but @MCS4FUN beat me to it.

In other news, the left brace fits without surprises. I marked the holes today but won't drill until I know that there's a workable solution for the right side. Current thinking is to use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to remove the old ground stud and then weld a new one about 1.25" further back.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 07:14 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by dmath
I dropped in to report on the magnet test but @MCS4FUN beat me to it.

In other news, the left brace fits without surprises. I marked the holes today but won't drill until I know that there's a workable solution for the right side. Current thinking is to use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to remove the old ground stud and then weld a new one about 1.25" further back.
im sure this isnt going to help so much but what i used as a reference....https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ce_Install.htm I happened to get an 05 so it was a bit easier with everything already there, i had to move the inter fender liner on driver side for that one screw.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 07:34 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by dmath
Current thinking is to use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to remove the old ground stud and then weld a new one about 1.25" further back.
I also read a post somewhere here on the forums where a member had a similar situation with having to relocate the ground strap to an existing stud/bolt on the frame. Unfortunately, I don't recall the details or which location.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 02:51 PM
  #60  
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@Jason Cornelius Thanks. That's the how-to I'm following. Or was following until things went sideways.

@Here2Go I wish there was another frame-mounted stud nearby. I don't seen one. While looking for one, however, I had a thought: I wonder if a rivnut in the appropriate location would give enough metal-to-metal contact for the ground? I can think of several ways to attach the ground strap to it. A bolt would be easiest but I could also use a small metal block similar to the factory ground point. Drill and tap it and put a bolt through it into the rivnut. I could even relieve the hole a bit on the back so that the block would sit flush on the frame.

 
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Old Mar 6, 2023 | 03:50 PM
  #61  
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Don't hate me 'cause I'm stupid

As much as I dislike the expression -
Here is a "quick and dirty" option.
No drilling required.....


Embarrassing - Believe it or not I didn't have any 13mm nuts or bolts to mock up this example. I think of the 2wo holes; the preferred hole would be closest to the original
ground bolt location. Square nuts may still be available as an improvised "block". Grind, Ospho, weld.... The hood still shuts with no interference....
FWIW...you get the idea.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2023 | 07:05 PM
  #62  
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Cusco or other underbody braces ?

Cusco or other underbody braces ?
 
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