Hi guys,
just wanted to check if any of you would have any idea why my car is sputtering at consistent gas as I am driving on highway. When I accelerate or slow down its running great but when I keep the same speed for some time it starts sputtering. The same thing happens in 5th gear at 2100 - 2300 rpms.
Thanks would help a ton.

 

I always seem to respond to these symptoms with the same question: When was the last time the fuel filter had been changed?
Possible fuel starvation. It could possibly be a fuel pump failing?
Or simply a vacuum line has come disconnected?

 

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? Spark plugs? Air Filter? Does it have a check engine light on? Have you pulled any codes?
Your problem is too vague for a simple answer.

 

Spark plugs are half year old..I suppose the fuel filter was not changed for at least 10 years… but I am getting code p0107 ever since we got the car and we put on the oem sc pulley. Before there was a 15% pulley installed and the car was mapped. Thanks for any advice. I was thinking of swapping back the pulley and then see if the code and dsc light will dissapear.

 

I would start there and check fuel pressure.
The S model has a MAP and TMAP. The TMAP is known to have issues. Only use OEM replacement our you will be running around in circles.

 

So the cause for my code could also be the tmap sensor?

 

CheifM could probably answer that better than me.
I had a similar issue; More of a jerking "surge". I don't recall having any codes. Changed my fuel filter (never been change @ 87k) and most of the symptoms subsided.
Wound up changing out old w/new OEM TMAP & MAP sensors. My Mini ran perfect afterwards. Not sure which sensor may have solved the issue.

 

I would suggest doing the same with yours, fuel filter and both MAP sensors. I'm pretty sure that will solve your issue too.

 

Having owned a supercharged mini for nearly 6 years I'd say if you have a misfire check the coil pack on top of the engine, especially pin 3 as it rusts (only pin 3 for some reason) clean it up with wet and dry paper and test again. Cheapest cure is always first. Also cold or idle tapping noises can be the cam chain tensioner, another cheap and easy self fix (access via the top of the car, no need to take wheels off etc). Early R53s are not OBD2 compliant, so cheaper code readers don't work on them at all. Otherwise I'd say they are great cars and easy to work on (other than the rear bushes on the lower front suspension arms, a pig of a job).




Tutuapp 9Apps Showbox

 

Where are those sensors?
I know where the knock sensor is, and on the intake manifold there’s a sensor… That one is MAP? But then I don’t know where the IMAP sensor is. I’m sure it’s disconnected right now, that’s for sure.

 

Hi, I’ve ordered both sensors and there was no improvement.. p0107 still showing. I have just tried to change the tmap sensor and put in the map instead and the light went off but car was running incredibly lean. Please HELP!!

 

If you can rent or buy a gauge and check the fuel pressure at the rail. It may give you insight if there is a fuel issue.

 

But isn’t the code for intake manifold low input??!?!

 

Hi, I had the same issue with my car. When I accelerate, my engine was unable to accelerate smoothly and begins to, as you describe "sputter". Many people have told me its possible it was my bypass valve staying closed and not opening up when I put my foot on the gas pedal. I purchased the Detroit Tuned Bypass valve and it fixed the problem. Other NAM members told me a trick, try turning off your DSC switch and accelerate and see if your sputter comes (meaning the DSC light will appear ON). When I did that, the problem only lessened yet still stood. Try that and get back to me!

 

But i can’t even turn off dsc as it is always on..I got the code 5E19 CAN data fault from DME/DDE(DCS lamp on as long as error is present…. I really don’t know what to do!

 

are you saying you swapped the map into the Tmap location to test? If so the back MAP is a MAP not a TMAP it doesnt have a temp sensor and will create a new host of issues codes if you run the map in the tmap location. Cant tell if your saying you bought a tmap and map and replaced them both or if iyou moved the map into tmap location to test. Also cant lock down if your dsc light is also on with the 107 code? If so it might be in limp mode. Still reading your thread. Come back with a complete list of symptoms and codes and what you have changed or done. I can think of a handful of things but want more info before giving broad advice.

Map sensor is next to thermostat and measures post Throttle body as a reference to flow moving threw the Throttle body. Tmap is on the intake manifold at right front. Its job is to calculate flow after the charger and its tempatures and do fancy wizard math stuff with the data from the map. Basically the ECU uses data from both sensors to determine a value. Both sensors look the same fit in each others spot but not only does one have a temp sensor they also have diffrent calibrations they run at. Dont want to get into anything to math related or boring. But for example one sensor might have a operating range of .5-49.5 and has fixed linear data in that range. IE) .5 volts could be 100kpa and 4.95 could be 250kpa again example. While the other sensor has the same operating range ie .5-4.95 its values it reports at those readings and its linear scale are diffrent. IE) .5 could be 110 kpa etc. I would have to break out the meter etc and again boring stuff but long story short the temp probe is not the only difference between the two sensors so from a diagnostic standpoint its not worth swaping to just test if that makes sense. FPR line hooked up and not cracked? Intercooler boots corect no holes or leaks? Green jam gasket good? NeedZ lol more info.

Make sure you have the right sensor installed in the right location. Verify the sensor in hand with the part/serial for both before installing. I have on accident got them mixed up when they where on the bench for 6 months and forgot which was which. Also verify the map sensor hard brittle crack prone stiff tube is not otherwise cracked broken etc. It runs from Black feed duct to the map sensor. Hose is grey or tan cant remember.

How did you pull the can line code? Do you have Ista-D IT has a lovely function where it scans the Can and K line for a response/ping from each module. I think your in some form of Limp but not tradinaioal limp mode. Meaning something else is at fault and reporting bad info hence the light that wont go off and self limiting the engine. DSC/ABS errors can trigger this where the module is bad and it throws out there in the stream your slipping and does what it should when that happens if that makes sense. ALl wheel speed sensors working?

The 107 code could be a result of the main issue. Not the issue itself. Try disconnecting the abs module harness clips and re attach them. Also pull tmap connector check for corrsion and that its not all loose from years of vibrations that will throw random issues at you too I know that first hand.

 

Hi, no I bought and replaced both of them and put them to the correct position. Then when nothing had changed i just put the map sensor on tmap sensor location on the intake manifold. The light was gone but the car wasn’t running ok and was running like crazy lean…I’m talking lexus lfa sounds out of my milltek exhaust, not the deep tone it should be. I have the dsc light permanently on because of code 5e19, and the p0107 code which I think is the reason for the 5e19 code. I have a couple of other codes but don’t know if they will help- in the photos. The car itself has been mapped and it doesn’t have the catalytic converter on its milltek non resonated exhaust. It drives fine but it doesn’t have the expected power under 1700rpms. Other then that the ride is good but the only problem there is is the highway drive where I can’t drive with constant speed and rpms.
thanks for your help

 

There sometimes is the trifecta of light because of front left wheel speed sensors but it goes out and comes up again after like 3months. The fpr line is connected correctly

 

Well I edited my post with things to try. The abs/dsc error can be a side effect and vice versa for the 107. Unplus the abs module or fuse clear codes power down re connect modules.

 

Also if the steering sensor is bad it will throw a 5e19 related code as a symptom of the steering so is that code valid I see for steering:? I honestly think you have a canbus issue either with a module or with wiring. Everybody has their own thoughts and opions on stuff. fwiw I was a tech for most of my adult life. That being said try to get ista d setup as it has in depth dealer level Can bus diagnostics and on screen step by step instructions and again its a dealer level package so can do stuff most people wouldn't even know existed. When it first links to the car it pings the entire Can/K system and displays a GUI flow chart of each module and if its working. Pretty sweet as the gui is well done and maps out the system and lets you send and receive commands over the can/k line.

 

Your error is “Barometric Pressure - Input Low”

It’s a pain if you’re new to it, but the thing to do is to check the pins on the cable for power and ground, or for resistance. I haven’t looked up the schematic but you should be able to find what signals the sensor is expecting to receive, and then test if it’s getting them. Then you can put probe traces on and read the voltage or current when the sensor is in operation. Sometimes, it can be the connector or the wire or the DME. It’s not necessarily the sensor.

Another method is to find a friend with a working car and swap parts to see if the fault follows the part. It’s SO MUCH cheaper than just buying parts and praying.

 

Agreed as I mentioned above but I also think this car has deeper issues than the 107 code. But I had faulty connector on tmap give me all sorts of rando crap times until I found it. Luckily the Link G4 was more help about my issue than the stock dme as I was able to open a log and see the drop in and outs voltage spikes etc from the connector wiggling

 

So you are saying that the 107 could be originating from either of the sensors?

 

It can get triped for a handful of reasons but the usual suspect is the tmap. But again pull the connector and check it over for issues. Its likely a wiring issue like rebound said and the can bus errors are a good sign of potential wiring issue over the entire car/system. Which again points toward wring connector at the tmap and map. I am sure you will figure it out good luck. Based on the symptoms and the other errors which denote Can Comm errors its a good bet that your main issue is wiring/connector related.

Any code can be thrown for a bunch of reasons and its all car specfic the ob2 standard just set the codes/meanings not what would trip that code on various makes and models. My bet based on the evidence is wiring. take 5 minutes pull tmap connector and look. Again if you find download and install ista -D it will narrow down all of this and tell you what module is acting up an why and give you step by step guides to resolve the issue. If you have a true can issue as seen above a giant flow chart will be shown of the can/k system and whatever is not working will be red.

 

I am likely over informing and sorry if I am. But if you do want to deep dive and know more here is what I am talking about in action so you can see what I mean. But again sorry if you just want to fix it and drive. I am a tech guy so I go all in. Just check this out it starts where the system is fully scanned and it maps out the Can system and module. This software is useful for a epic amount of crap and does all sorts of stuff I wont go into. ISta+ and P. Inpa is the very basic Bottom tech level software. Ista is for the techs that make the big bucks