Yes! I was late to the party but def the passenger ground is the most common no-start on these. I learned this on my first engine pull. I see missing SC intake tube screw. Oh jeez... my OCD. Sorry. Not an emergency if the TB end is attached correctly.
Forgot to ask, do you have a direct link to those sunshades? I have been looking for one for mine.
yeah, no worries on the OCD, it was missing on original engine too which is why it isn’t replaced yet.
Hint: I stole the vacuum right angle that goes into the Fuel pressure regulator on old engine to replace the one that sits under the supercharger horn and was rotted out on both engines. Strangely both FPR right angles were in great shape, and both the ones under the horn were rotten. The one on my 05 is also fugly under the horn but intact for now, whil3 the FPR is perfect on it too… I’m guessing it is the location under the horn that kills them?
next junkyard trip I’m going to grab another FPR right angle if I can find one to proactively replace mine.
Got passenger axle stabbed and ready for 3 bolts right after the prior vid…, then out of the blue we got a massive thunderstorm pouring down buckets so had to scramble to get things back in and the garage closed back up for the night.
Axles, suspension and wheelwell liners, then front end and it will finally be together.
have sneaking suspicion might wind up having to vacuum bleed clutch slave after all, as it feels super soft, but it does have a lot of throw so we will have to wait and see till it’s together.
I have the feeling we will need to change the DV over from JCW and/or the crank pulley as it doesn’t have the oomph it should, it pulls just like the donor car did despite having a 16% pulley on it now, JCW tune and injectors, jet not as hard as my S with a 15%.
but drove it about 11 miles and the clutch is firmer than it was at first and it runs nice and drives well.
Will have to hook up computer and clear codes and see if any do come back.
basically we are almost back to where we were 13 months ago!
rear Fog accomplished with Sylvania red LED and the reverse housing from a pre facelift,
Had to go fill it up with fresh premium since the last time was Sept 2022…
both together at last.
still need to get slick top parts car reassembled enough to be a roller, ie remount struts and knuckles, put front end back on, and see if someone out there wants to buy it cheap to KSwap it.
long time followers might remember that before we started the engine swap we cleaned up the rear suspension and (VHT caliper silver) painted by Alex’s request the rear calipers red/silver to ‘match’ the front JCWs. And while we were there painted the rotors silver to match the wheels with the same caliper paint and the rear trailing arms also silver.
all I can say is damn it looks good. So good I’m going ot have to pull the front rotors off and paint them silver as well.
It’s been a week and over a 1/4 tank of fuel, and no CEL.
double checked exhaust manifold to head tightness one last time and reinstalled the heat shield.
also I was stupid and forgot and slammed hood last week which caused the top headlight adjuster to pop loose, luckily cranking the adjust full low got it back in place, and then was able to re-level to match the other side against my garage door.
so we can call the re-engine on Chili a success!
Parts car is back together, everything I wanted off it is out, except the rear strut assemblies.
ie complete engine for chili, tall gear getrag trans & factory exhaust manifold as spares, fender trims, HK speakers/ amp and front strut assemblies for my car.
front 02 I still need to install in mine, but Figured since I swapped the newer fronts over to replace the 160k originals, I should do the rears as well before we roll it out to the street, but had to get car back on its own front wheels first.
also have cool aftermarket PFL extended door armrest and we took the aftermarket glovebox divider for Alex’s Chili and between this parts car’s iPod adapter and the one Chili had, we’re able to put together a complete working one that needs installing.
the one fault it has now is the key remote, swapped mirrors and then programmed mine to his car so have narrowed it down to the remote itself, have seen the solder in batteries but not sure I want to cut a FL key open, may simply see if BMW can order me a second key and keep this one as the spare.
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parts car looks like it is up on jacks still with no trans or engine in it, but it’s down and I can take the rears off and swap them around now. Force of habit, I still put the blocks of wood under the wheels for jack clearance, though as you can see, it was certainly not needed!
Next weekend we are celebrating Alex’s 17th, so he is getting a few goodies he can install (with my help) for Chili 🌶️.
Uhh, I absolutely love chili red on white. I have chili red on black and it just doesn't give that classic look. One thing that i would add to the chili is GP rear bumper plastic trims. In my opinion the S trim pieces just dont do the car justice while the GP pieces make it perfect. Shame my Chili is broken, fingers crossed my engine is not toast and it only needs new rings.
Thanks! if the aero rear bumper ever gets repop’d (ecs has front and side skirts already) we will get one so it has the complete kit again like it did factory. For now it doesn’t look out of place.
Sadly the GP trims are NLA though I think Orange has repop’d jsut the under bumper GP, but don’t think they have the side trims.
Parts car is gone, got iPod adapter back in Chili and it works correctly now, still have Sirius, BT Aux, and of course radio and cd. All working.
found a New in Box Scosche Passport so now the Mini iPod adapter also charges the iPods.
Have this to install this weekend, but will need to get a correct black non restricted T (tried pulling brass restrictor out, no dice, then tried catching it with a drill bit, it went deeper) and correct sized rubber vacuum boost line as the clear vinyl one supplied does not even fit the T nor the boost sensor anyway.
and I need to solder in wires for the boost sensor to run back to the gauge but I got the connectors on, loomed the wires and heat shrunk them into bundles so it will be easier to install thru the vent.
maker is Ido3Dprints.com, I got it laser sintered and looks much much better than the typical 3d textured print, it’s smooth and glossy. Also has a lifetime warranty for cracks splits or melts.
three layers of thin double sides tape on bottom of gauge and 2 across top of gauge and it stayed perfectly in place.
cut the back “brace” off the Marshall supplied retaining bucket and reused it as a retaining plate for the back of the gauge.
maker is Ido3Dprints.com, I got it laser sintered and looks much much better than the typical 3d textured print, it’s smooth and glossy. Also has a lifetime warranty for cracks splits or melts.
Can you explain the laser sintered part? Looks like typical FDM style print that has had an acetone(?) bath/treatment to melt the layers down. Is the material ABS rather than PLA? Thanks
Did a little test fit in a spare dash center left over from Route 66.
glad I did, didn’t remember the retaining humps are clocked 45 degrees on the vent so had to take the gauge back out of the mount. Had to reclock it at roughly 45 over with it half in, then fiddle it the last 2-3 degrees to be totally right and then remount the rear brace part again to lock it fully down again. Just need to solder longer leads on the sensor wires, heat shrink and braid those amd we will be ready for install tomorrow.
We are doing ours a little different than all the DIYs. Not running hose all across the engine then back to the Booster area, because this isn’t an analog gauge, came up with a better idea (I hope)
Went ahead and put in the vacuum hose and T from the FPR nipple and ran it straight back with the other evap and fuel lines to the plastic wall. Slightly expanded a pre-existing hole with an unibit, then thru the wall and left a few inches of slack in a “drip” loop. That way if we even need to lift up engine for tensioner, mount etc there is slack there to allow for it.
made up a right angle bracket to hold the sensor upright and low enough so it’s out of sight, but with easy access to unplug it and bolted it in thru an existing hole.
stopped there for night, tomorrow is find 12+, ign and illumination, then connect ground, and run the 3 wires for sensor out the firewall, sleeve it in heat shrink amd solder the sensor pigtail.
before we did so though, got a 9v battery out, twist connected pigtail amd played with the guage to make sure it worked. It did show us at less than 0 which is correct since we are at 4,000 feet ASL.
Interestingly, bmw orange auto overrides the white illumination, so if you wanted you could set it up to have white illumination daytime by connecting that white wire to ign+ as well, then turning on lights would auto trigger the amber instead via the orange wire. I don’t think even with it being recessed into the vent it will be needed, but it is night to know it is an option.
Took it to a trunk or treat car show a few blocks away.
because the clutch is easier on this one let my wife drive it while I drove mine.
She said she could drive stick.
She can’t.
She drove it thru the garage door.
Now I need to buy a new garage door and learn how to install that, and buy a new windscreen and new OEM/Mini driving lights for Alex’s JCW.
the windscreen is pretty severely scratched, and the poor OEM driving lights took the brunt of it. The lenses are smashed back into the housing a good 1/4-3/8” and since they don’t turn on I’m pretty sure the nice new cool white bulbs I put in them are now kaput.
At least the aero bumper was ok but F me. Every time I finally get everything fixed…
surprisingly enough I Salvaged everything. What felt and looked like scratches was thick paint transfer. Couple scratches on headlights and some super minor scratches in the stripes…but got really damn lucky. That and it had a good coat of wax.
Other than a few scratches, only true damage is a Short in the wiring for one of the driving lights, but managed to polish out all the paint transfer from everything and correctly reseat the lenses in the buckets etc.
about to go figure out where this short is and fix it.
The short was one of the H3 bulbs itself got distorted on the backside so it was a short to ground. Other than that everything was fixable.
Ordered a new set of nokya 55w 3800 for them and we should be good,
other than the garage door which is totally bamjaxed.
Recently my wife had a similar incident with the garage door. It wasn't as bad as yours, just the bottom panel was messed up. I called around for replacement panels and was surprised that the company that installed the door originally was cheaper with them installing than buying just the panel from Home Depot. I imagine the cost difference was crating and shipping a single panel from the manufacturer through HD vs the door company having spare panels on hand.
Yep, for 3 panels it was cheaper to just replace the whole door, rails etc. Guy had an opening today and Got it done on 90minutes still need to get it painted but the plain white is fine for now. Nicer and thicker door than the original was too, needed it, today was 32F (0C) last weekend was last weekend it was summer ish till late feb. now I can get the cars in for maintenance and so they aren’t freezing when I take daughter to school.
Sorry. 
Not an emergency if the TB end is attached correctly.
