It was all trial & error for me. Like I mentioned, it took me three tries to fully seat the housing top (even a MM off makes a difference). The only way I knew I succeeded was it finally started. You may get lucky and get it seated the first time but if it fails to start it's 100% that f'ing top.

 

I agree with @cooper48 , its imperative that you fully lock the top of the filter housing. I ended up using a little vaseline on the gaskets, and then a oil filter wrench to turn the housing top that little bit more that it needed as I had the same issue with my car not starting after changing the filter. My filter looked the same too. Seems to be a trend with these cars after the years they've been in service!

Car looks great btw!

 

An oil-based lubricant like Vaseline will degrade rubber over time. IMHO, it's better to use a silicone-based lubricant on o-rings rather than Vaseline. You can find the silicone variety in the plumbing dept. at your local Lowe's or Home Depot. Plumbers use it all the time on faucet o-rings.

 

Ugh. You guys are killing me. I thought the parts were really tight with no definitive "click" or seat. Now I'm going to tear it all apart again and redo it just to be sure.

I'm also wondering if an easy way to check would be rail pressure. For anyone doing this it might be worth checking rail pressure before swapping the filter and then again after to see if there's a difference. Simple and succinct.

 

Sil-Glyde brake lubricant (any auto parts store or Amazon)
Excellent for O-Rings.

 

Well, I finally got everything re installed today. While waiting on parts I installed my gauge faces which seem to have turned out pretty good. Radiator shroud took 8 spacers on the driver's side and 5 on the passengers side to clear the charge/duct pipe. At $6-8 EA is recommend heading a few extra just in case.

I downloaded the RMW tune into the car and said a prayer before I turned over the ignition. She fired right up. Smoking at the header as it heated up. Other than the smoke everything looked good with no leaks, etc after running for just a minute or so.

I do have a cel so I'm going to plug my reader in and see what's what. I was very thankful that apparently I put the fuel filter back together properly. No issues there so no need to tear into that again for awhile.

I will check codes and see what is going on. But for now things look ok. I'm attaching pics again. I'm kinda proud of the way she looks. I still can't believe that this is my favorite car. Not the easiest to work on, but super fun.

 

Codes were 2300 and 2303. Coil pack issues. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. So seems like all is good. Starts right up. Will take a drive tomorrow.

 

congrats!

 

I guess I was too quick to say everything is good. I need a little help now. I've got no starter.

I tried to close the hood and find that I need to trim the under hood duct more to clear the new intercooler. I then filled the gas tank from a couple of gas cans I filled prior to the crazy spike in gas prices. I buttoned up the cover on the fuel filter and lowered the car off of the quick jacks. Got in. Turned the key. Nothing.

Lights came on, door chimes worked, dash lights came on, but no crank. There was a slight popping/clicking, not quite the normal low battery clicking when there isn't enough juice to fire the starter.

I scratched my head and checked the battery. It showed only 11-11.5v. alrighty, back on the charger. I let it sit on the charger overnight.

This morning, 12v. Got in, turned key. Same song second verse. Only this time no clicking/popping from the starter.

I'm stumped. Obviously I'm going to have to get under the car and check for 12v to the starter (unless someone has a better way). But what on earth???!!! Any ideas?

Yesterday I started the car 3-4 times with no issues. The last time I let it run for about 10 minutes or so until all the smoke cleared from coating on header burning in and filling/watching coolant levels.

This is the weirdest thing I've ever dealt with on a car ...

 

Well this thread has sorry of fallen off, but I thought I would update it. Car is running and it was simple. Jan pegged it right off the bat. It was the engine mount ground.

I must be an idiot, but after power coating the engine mount it didn't dawn on me to grind the coating off of the base of the mount as well as the strap. Turns out I had a bad ground where the mount meets the block. Running a new ground fixed my issue.

I am likely going to add at least one additional ground to make sure there are no further issues. Can't hurt.

Car seems to run well. No leaks, no cel, etc. Only driven 20 miles do far. I haven't really gotten on it yet to see how things perform, but still happy so far. Fwiw the header and Nvidia exhaust is pretty loud. Time will tell.

 

I'm mainly posting to sub to this thread but I love your engine mounts! It ties the cleanliness of the engine bay together really well. Its actually the first thing I noticed lol. Don't be surprised its your favorite car either. I have a Nitrous Corvette and I like driving the MINI more...

 

Great build! I’m considering the same RMW mods for my 06 JCW. I also have the invidia cat back and you mentioned adding the RMW header creates a fairly loud exhaust note. Like wake the neighbors loud? Overall are you happy with the RMW upgrades?

 

Guys I'm a slacker. Havent driven the mini since sorting out the no start issue . It's crazy hot right now so I'm avoiding the garage. During the initial drive after sorting the no start issue I noted that there is increased noise with the invidia exhaust. My car is lined with lizard skin to dampen sound and quiet it down but it's still noisy. Rmw said use the milktek otherwise it would be crazy loud. I will likely try to switch to the Miltek or at least install a larger resonator in the mid pipe.

I also noted some increased engine noise. I couldn't tell if it's the chain tensioner, valve train or what. It may just be increased noise due to steel header, but I want to be sure before doing any possible damage. Since I haven't done any further trouble shooting I didn't want to get on it too much. I don't have much to add about increased performance yet.

I am waiting on the weather to cool a bit before tackling the noise issue and getting the car back to the Dyno. I'll post here once I've moved forward with more progress. In the bushes of building a house in Montana so this are a little nutty and the car is a bit if a low priority.

Lmk if you have any more questions.

 

^^^ Reviewing your list of mods, I don't see a short shifter kit among those. If you do or have one planned, be certain to measure available clearance from bottom of where that presses (or might press) against the aluminum foil heat shielding to top of the pipe (or existing can) diameter before you order a Milltek system (or switch to a large can). My woes with insufficient clearance outlined in my topic pointed initially to the header flange position being too high but I ultimately determined that to be the B&M SSK with its extended enclosed dust shield pressing down against that shielding and "robbing" sufficient clearance for the Milltek res-pipe. Representative pics illustrating available on request...

 

I've got the coolerworx shifter. One of my first installs. I did read the posts where you guys were discussing the offsets used in the traditional short shift kits. I can easily see how that would cause issues. Luckily the coolerworx is similar sized to stock so there doesn't appear to be any loss of space. I will likely have my local fabricator fit a larger, longer resonator first. I'll post how that goes. Once the weather breaks I'll get her out in the road and evaluate any noises I hear. Knock wood that there are no leaks. Everything seems good and tight. Hopefully I'll see more power.

 

"Cool" on the Coolerworx shifter! That could be an option for me if/when...

Searching for quality stainless steel mufflers for resonator utilization led me to: Cortek Mufflers made in USA. Fairly spendy for size but I figure, worth the cost if resolves a problem. I already sold both Milltek res-pipes here (original then replacement too), however bashing the muffler canister top radius flat enough for sufficient clearance was an option which didn't appeal to my sensibilities. There isn't much room between cat flange and hanger support plate for much longer resonator nor either side to avoid contact with resulting buzz/rattles, otherwise one of their oval mufflers of suitable size might work well.

Edit: Made in Ontario Canada

 

If flange and/or flange bolt clearance is an issue, look into v-band clamps. I use them on everything. When installed properly I've never had one leak, and they have a lot more clearance than traditional 2 bolt flanges. In addition to more clearance they do not require a gasket and make assembly/disassembly a breeze.

 

^^^ Like these? Mishimoto 2.5" stainless V-Clamp I used one like that on my former 2013 MCS for weldless joint between OEM aft-cat pipe and JCW rear exhaust. An expanded slip-on joint would have been preferred but still worked well...

 

Sorry I just saw this. Yes that is exactly what I'm talking about. I have had great success using them when more traditional clamps don't work.