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Found a loose connection that was connected to the rear window, like a flat connector seemed like it was going to the orange lines on the windshield. It was rattling like crazy while driving, so I investigated - forgot what color the wire lead was. It was coming from this thing:
I'm not sure how to go about fixing it, or if it's even worth trying to fix.
From your description it may be for the heated rear hatch glass. If the unit itself is rattling you could try to tighten the two Torx retaining screws to see if that cures the problem.
From your description it may be for the heated rear hatch glass. If the unit itself is rattling you could try to tighten the two Torx retaining screws to see if that cures the problem.
It's not the unit, but rather a little metal connector that was soldered. But the solder seems to have broken, so the metal was smacking around back there.
It sounds like the connecting tab for the diversity antenna module broke off of the hatch glass.
There is special (copper based?) conductive glue used to repair defrosters and other connections like this. It’s expensive, around $12 for a small squeeze packet that can’t be re-sealed. It didn’t work for me and I ended up finding some graphite based conductive glue at a local electronics store.
On a facelift car the tab should attached on the lower passenger side of the glass behind the black border if looking from the outside. If part of the circuit lifted off of the glass with the tab, the repair will be harder. Also, check the black border by shining a light through it to see if the paint needs to be touched up before the repair. If any paint is missing and not touched up, you’ll end up with copper spots visible on the outside.
The repair is kind of a pain because the tab usually breaks off again from the force of trying to reconnect the wire, or the tension of the wire pulls the tab away when trying to glue with it already connected because the glue is slow drying.
I used a multi-meter to check the connection before putting the trim back. Also, be careful replacing the trim as it’s easy to break the tab when doing so. That’s how my tab was originally broken.
It sounds like the connecting tab for the diversity antenna module broke off of the hatch glass.
There is special (copper based?) conductive glue used to repair defrosters and other connections like this. It’s expensive, around $12 for a small squeeze packet that can’t be re-sealed. It didn’t work for me and I ended up finding some graphite based conductive glue at a local electronics store.
On a facelift car the tab should attached on the lower passenger side of the glass behind the black border if looking from the outside. If part of the circuit lifted off of the glass with the tab, the repair will be harder. Also, check the black border by shining a light through it to see if the paint needs to be touched up before the repair. If any paint is missing and not touched up, you’ll end up with copper spots visible on the outside.
The repair is kind of a pain because the tab usually breaks off again from the force of trying to reconnect the wire, or the tension of the wire pulls the tab away when trying to glue with it already connected because the glue is slow drying.
I used a multi-meter to check the connection before putting the trim back. Also, be careful replacing the trim as it’s easy to break the tab when doing so. That’s how my tab was originally broken.
the glue you were talking about? The little electrical metal tab left some residue on the windshield, so I assume I'd just clean the area then apply the epoxy and reattach.
Yes, follow the instructions and you might have better luck as it could have been user error on my part. I don't remember for sure, but I might have cleaned the area and tab with something other than the included pad which is also an activator/adhesion promoter.
