old enough to know the limit at which I will push my car...
I don't get what ur saying but ok.
Why didn't I buy a Subaru sti ?????? Because I COULD NEVER shift it how these and a honda can. So either I don't buy one or if I did id have to build the trans to my liking ? You feel me ?
what i do to my car is for my liking , I honestly could care less what the next person's opinion is of it or me. if I chose to run something harder and shorter rather than easy and longer I will. And to figure out things along the way is why I turn to you guys who have WAY MORE knowledge of these cars than I do..

 

Not sure where it went... but, there is supposed to be a rubber coupling between the input shaft and the blower rotor.
http://www.gtt.uk.com/product/mini-g...drive-coupler/

 

OMG i thought so too but there wasn't...wtf ????? Lol I wonder if it was serviced prior to me getting it and they didn't do it rite and it lived this long only..the slop would be explained then by that piece missing as its just the metal prongs that then engage and thats the exact distance OF play.
WHAT IF that coupler thing inside had broke and grinded its self into oblivion and thats why the oil was soooo thick and black, it was literally sludge.
I should buy a new piece and see if that fixes the slop. Is there a way to see if the snout seal blew out or if these have one as idk.

 

I guess that could be possible... with the gears like that, it's like a mini blender in there.

 

Only 1 of 2 possibilities even as unlikely as either sounds..
1 it was put together without it and ran a minimum of 16 months and like 20k miles ( my entire ownership ) or it broke while I had the car and never realized and it grinded down into the oil into that sludge..
I ordered a new better coupler BUT how do I replace the snout seal ? I'm sure thats all thats bad on this now,then I could atleast sell it and recoup a few bucks as I just dropped alot more than I wanted to into it on just maintenance things but it had to be done or worse comes to worse I have a back up.. any ways , anyone plz link me how to replace that seal, I found them forsale.. or i might just go pull the front off one from the wrecking yard and combine the 2.

 

That thing is going to meed new bearings in it also.....or it's not going to last very long.

 

You'll have to remove the pully to get at the seal. You'll have to press out the shaft to replace the bearings.

 

There is a reason that specialized shops charge good money to rebuild them.......it's not like you just pry out the bearings and seals and throw new ones in and you are good to go. The rotors are spinning at 16k+ rpms(depending on pulley size) with super tight rotor tip tolerances.........it's not like putting bearings and seals in a diff or transfer case.

 

Adam

I have a few M45's for sale. pM me if you need.

 

thankfully it had an alta pulley on it so that part was easy.
I was looking and I see the aftermarket gaskets are solid rubber and not metal, to remove the old metal one could I just feed a screw in it and pull it with a slide pullers ?

 

came across this, think this stuff is adequate for our m45s ???

 

Yup...great stuff!

 

Sweet...I got the seal out no problem and the bearings are perfectly fine..so I ordered all needed rebuild parts and now ille be stuck with 3x superchargers so i guess ille part with one of them as I really need to recoup a few bucks from this.
but check out how toasted the seal is, daaaaaang.

 

You sucked all that nasty debris laden oil through the bearings and you say they are good?? if you say so.....
Those bearing look like hell.

On a side note....this is the oil the SC's need....

 

This sounds exactly like what happened to my charger.

got a rebuilt unit from detriot tuned. But then experienced a sudden power loss and engine oil almost immediately started heavily draining out of the engine. Still don’t know exactly what happened. Not in a rush to find out. Oil pump failure? Rod bearing? Just a seal let go and let oil out and oil pressure went down real quick? Who knows. I can’t seem to get more than a few hundred miles before something comes up again.

 

my car didn't loose any oil or anything else get hurt other than my serpentine belt.. so I think your in a whole nother ball game than I am unfortunately.

 

It sucked a little oil through as there was plenty left in the sc and as soon as the seal burst it burst onto my belt causing it to jump off and shred which I think saved the sc from running dry then siezing up or self destructing. But it will be just fine for an emergency back up.
Thats just whats a go to i wouldn't say "need" I been reading this Lucas stuff I got has a much higher boiling point n stuff so I'm going with the Lucas . And no offense but ur judgement on my hearings based off just a pic is also incorrect , I fully cleaned everything out of there and there's not a mark or anything on the bearings or retainer and I put some lube back on them n spun them and they glide so I'm 100% sure they're fine..
I just need to figure out which retainer now is better to use on the aftermarket solid rubber gasket , should I use the press in style oem one or the spring style c snapclip thingy kind ?
This sc is going to be ported then and just kept as a back up or maybe put on at a later date if I'm happy with how much I can port it. Unless for sooooooome reason I have another sc failure but ive been lucky sofar with my car so knock on wood it persist.

 

belt got shredded first. After replacing the charger, the other incident happened.

 

Ok. So stealing those 2 posts on either side of the main V intake on the sc will just make it a little louder correct ???
I sealed one on my tester sc just to see how well it holds and cures into spot to see if I feel safe doing it on my sc when it arrives. I used jb 2part steel weld high temp ( red tube).

 

........waiting for your next post entitled "Would sucking a chunk of JB Weld though my SC hurt anything?".......

 

Why are you intent on hacking your supercharger for the possibility of altering the performance? Run it as designed. I can understand adding a smaller pully, but none of these other hacks...

 

lol ,CMON don't jinx me!!!!...I wouldn't fear it too much...I've used that stuff in a more severe situation and it held up great for 2 years until I parted out that car..
I'm very careful to pack it very tight and have my fingers underneath to press the putty into the gap..surface was prepped too before I put on the jb weld..

 

Note to self.....never buy any used parts from MiniManAdam......EVER!!!

Hey, why don't you take a file to your SC gears in order to rough them up really good.....it will probably make it whine a lot louder!!

 

Bookmarked :P

I'm all for modification, its the only way to know if it works. But I will only do things on the "safe" side.

 

Lol
you act like this mod hasn't been done,for many years,to many other types of superchargers.. I had did this exact mod on my mp supercharger once I got it for my third back when and like I said , ran 2 years not 1 issue and sold the sc that way too then.