Today I took out the Oilfilter again, tryed not to push it in
to tighly with the Filtercap. Read that somewhere.

Now light comes on at idel when engine is hot. I just crank up 50-100 rpm
and it goes out.

What can it be? My toughts...

1. Wrong oil? Useing 5-W30 syntectic at the moment. Trying thicker Oil 20-W50 syntectic ? (Tropical climates)
2. Filter Problem? I am using now (P9197) Bosch filter.

I add all ErrorCodes (many years no reset)

any ideas are very welcome

 

If it were me, the first thing I would do is go old school, temporally plumb in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify your problem. At the very least it will eliminate possible sources of the issue.

Oh...
No 20w50, 0w40 maybe, but honestly 5w30 is the proper weight and you shouldn't have to compensate for a problem with the oil viscosity.
As far as filters, I don't know who makes them, but I've always just bought the OEM filter (I grab 4 or 5 at a time, just to have enough for a years worth of changes)

 

Tried now all of this 3 Filters of different Brands.
The issue remains the same

Oillight "ON" at idle.

Anyone can help, please?

 

Have you tried checking the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as @BlwnAway suggested? Until you do that, you're just taking shots in the dark, I think.

 

Are you using the correct style filter?

 

Not with a gauge already, but lets say I did and getting low oil pressure at idle like the gauge and sensor indicates. What causes the problem then?

Yes, my canister cap is the one the right in your picture

 

My first two thoughts about the oil light on at idle....have you put a mechanical gauge in place of the oil sender and measured exactly what your oil pressure actually is? That would have been the first thing I would have done....instead of changing all the oil filters that cost money.

Have you replaced the oil sender switch?

I would take an oil pressure reading first and go from there....right now all we are doing is guessing at a problem that we cannot fix unless you start giving us better information on what you have actually tried instead of saying what could be wrong....you are asking for help, we are giving you suggestions and things to test and try, yet you won't follow through with what we are saying to do

Bryan

 

I agree with all the above comments = verify w/mechanical pressure gauge directly from the engine block.
I can't imagine the problem has anything to do with your choice in oil filters.

When I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in tandem with my OEM idiot sending switch, on the steering column in my 04 R53; the needle read 0 psi @ idle / warm (110 C oil temp). The idiot light never came on or even flickered.
This was still concerning and confusing to me. To be on the safe side; I borrowed a pressure gauge and tested the oil pressure independently directly from the block.
When the engine got warm/ hot - the directly connected pressure gauge read 3.5psi @ idle. Not 0 psi like my cheap steering column mounted oil pressure gauge indicated. My column mounted gauge still reads 0 psi @ warm/hot idle.
Having confirmed psi w/ a independent pressure gauge; I am comfortable knowing 0 = 3.5 psi on my interior mounted gauge.

Notwithstanding: Interestingly enough; my Mini came new from the factory (@ 3mi), with the NME7635 oil filter housing. My Mini is a pre-facelift '04 R53 built October 3, 2003.
I've been changing my oil every 3,500 mi since 60k mi / 9yrs (now @ 90k). I've always used Mobil 1 5w 30 and WIX filters.

 

I have the same problem (*1), but I solved it with the oil filters below.

BMW MINI Cooper (R50, 2003-08, Earlier model(*2) of generation 1.)

===== REMARKS =====
*1) After the engine warms up, the oil pressure warning lamp will light up when it reaches normal idling (revolutions below 1000 RPM).

*2) This earlier model oil housing requires a plastic cage and spring.

Without this, an error will occur immediately.

===== Oil Filter Setting =====
1) Put the spring into the cage and then insert it into the filter.
2) Then insert them into the cap.
3) Then insert them and turn them into the housing.

Later model caps do not fit securely into earlier model housings.

===== Cap Info. etc =====
https://www.minimania.com/MINI__02_0...roblem___Hints

===== OIL FILTERS =====
These are very good filters for my MINI Cooper (R50, 2003-08)

1) WIX (USA) 57303 <-- amazon.com
2) MEYLE (Germany) for MINI R50, R52, R53 and Chrysler PT Cruiser 1.6. <-- Parts seller in Japan.
This is the same structure as WIX 57303.

===== Comment =====
These filters are hard rubber rings attached to the edges of the top and bottom holes of these filters.

This seems to adhere closely to the core and prevent backflow (leakage) of oil.

I've had the same problem with the same new oil filter during oil changes for the past 3 years.
In the end, the problem has been resolved by using the filters mentioned above.

I do not understand the structure or function of oil filter parts in housing.

However, the Oil Drain Back Plunger may also be damaged due to amateur thinking.

The Oil Drain Back Plunger is produced and sold by OutMotoring.com, so please take a look.

https://www.outmotoring.com/MINI-Coo...rep_12345.html

I'm glad if you can use it as a reference.