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- Yes, just pull it firmly (it will probably break one of the 3 teeth/tabs that hold it in, but that shouldn't do any damage in the pan and is too large of a piece to get past the pickup screen)
- No, you can do it by just removing the filter
- Yes, but you will lose a small amount from the filter, but why not drain and change the oil and filter, since you already have the filter off.
Originally Posted by KINGR2R
Yes you can remove the plunger by grabbing it tight with your finger and pull it out. You can remove the oil filter cover without needing to drain the oil ( it will spill a bit of oil out when when you do that )
Originally Posted by dmath
Do you have a scanner to read the codes? If not, the chain auto parts stores will often read them for you.
Today I took out the Oilfilter again, tryed not to push it in
to tighly with the Filtercap. Read that somewhere.
Now light comes on at idel when engine is hot. I just crank up 50-100 rpm
and it goes out.
What can it be? My toughts...
1. Wrong oil? Useing 5-W30 syntectic at the moment. Trying thicker Oil 20-W50 syntectic ? (Tropical climates)
2. Filter Problem? I am using now (P9197) Bosch filter.
If it were me, the first thing I would do is go old school, temporally plumb in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify your problem. At the very least it will eliminate possible sources of the issue.
Oh...
No 20w50, 0w40 maybe, but honestly 5w30 is the proper weight and you shouldn't have to compensate for a problem with the oil viscosity.
As far as filters, I don't know who makes them, but I've always just bought the OEM filter (I grab 4 or 5 at a time, just to have enough for a years worth of changes)
Last edited by BlwnAway; Jul 27, 2022 at 02:35 PM.
Have you tried checking the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as @BlwnAway suggested? Until you do that, you're just taking shots in the dark, I think.
Have you tried checking the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as @BlwnAway suggested? Until you do that, you're just taking shots in the dark, I think.
Not with a gauge already, but lets say I did and getting low oil pressure at idle like the gauge and sensor indicates. What causes the problem then?
Are you using the correct style filter?
Yes, my canister cap is the one the right in your picture
Last edited by MiniR532003; Aug 14, 2022 at 09:14 AM.
My first two thoughts about the oil light on at idle....have you put a mechanical gauge in place of the oil sender and measured exactly what your oil pressure actually is? That would have been the first thing I would have done....instead of changing all the oil filters that cost money.
Have you replaced the oil sender switch?
I would take an oil pressure reading first and go from there....right now all we are doing is guessing at a problem that we cannot fix unless you start giving us better information on what you have actually tried instead of saying what could be wrong....you are asking for help, we are giving you suggestions and things to test and try, yet you won't follow through with what we are saying to do
I agree with all the above comments = verify w/mechanical pressure gauge directly from the engine block.
I can't imagine the problem has anything to do with your choice in oil filters.
When I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in tandem with my OEM idiot sending switch, on the steering column in my 04 R53; the needle read 0 psi @ idle / warm (110 C oil temp). The idiot light never came on or even flickered.
This was still concerning and confusing to me. To be on the safe side; I borrowed a pressure gauge and tested the oil pressure independently directly from the block.
When the engine got warm/ hot - the directly connected pressure gauge read 3.5psi @ idle. Not 0 psi like my cheap steering column mounted oil pressure gauge indicated. My column mounted gauge still reads 0 psi @ warm/hot idle.
Having confirmed psi w/ a independent pressure gauge; I am comfortable knowing 0 = 3.5 psi on my interior mounted gauge.
Notwithstanding: Interestingly enough; my Mini came new from the factory (@ 3mi), with the NME7635 oil filter housing. My Mini is a pre-facelift '04 R53 built October 3, 2003.
I've been changing my oil every 3,500 mi since 60k mi / 9yrs (now @ 90k). I've always used Mobil 1 5w 30 and WIX filters.
I have the same problem (*1), but I solved it with the oil filters below.
BMW MINI Cooper (R50, 2003-08, Earlier model(*2) of generation 1.)
===== REMARKS =====
*1) After the engine warms up, the oil pressure warning lamp will light up when it reaches normal idling (revolutions below 1000 RPM).
*2) This earlier model oil housing requires a plastic cage and spring.
Without this, an error will occur immediately.
===== Oil Filter Setting =====
1) Put the spring into the cage and then insert it into the filter.
2) Then insert them into the cap.
3) Then insert them and turn them into the housing.
Later model caps do not fit securely into earlier model housings.
===== OIL FILTERS =====
These are very good filters for my MINI Cooper (R50, 2003-08)
1) WIX (USA) 57303 <-- amazon.com
2) MEYLE (Germany) for MINI R50, R52, R53 and Chrysler PT Cruiser 1.6. <-- Parts seller in Japan.
This is the same structure as WIX 57303.
===== Comment =====
These filters are hard rubber rings attached to the edges of the top and bottom holes of these filters.
This seems to adhere closely to the core and prevent backflow (leakage) of oil.
I've had the same problem with the same new oil filter during oil changes for the past 3 years.
In the end, the problem has been resolved by using the filters mentioned above.
I do not understand the structure or function of oil filter parts in housing.
However, the Oil Drain Back Plunger may also be damaged due to amateur thinking.
The Oil Drain Back Plunger is produced and sold by OutMotoring.com, so please take a look.
Hi, I have a 2005 MINI COOPER S with 170K km, I just had a lot of work done on the car including valve cover gasket, engine shampoo to find leaks, and it was the oil pressure switch. Prior to changing it the oil light came on a couple times usually at a stop at idle, but would go off when moving along. I had it changed a few days ago and they said it was fine, but after a day or two of driving the light would come on a gain at idle usually once the car has warmed up, when cold it doesn't come on. Went on a quick highway test tonight and it did not come on but was on earlier from a short trip. When I got home it came on again at a stop and then in the parking it would turn on and off. If I tap the gas lightly enough but not to cause the RPM to change the light turns off, does this sound electrical, or this plunger issue? I don't want to spend crazy money on guess work new pump etc which will cost an arm and a leg. Any thoughts first idea is to inspect the oil filter plunger as this seems to be the culprit from the symptoms, driving at any speeds the light is off.
Sounds like a bad oil pressure sender, or a bad or broken drain back valve. Best to put a mechanical gauge on it first to see what oil pressure you actually have before replacing parts
Hi, I was thinking the valve, because it was doing it with the leaky switch, but it was leaking for a long time before I replaced it, then after the replacement it was ok but started to have the idle symptoms. I like the idea of testing the pressure mechanically not sure if the dealer can test this when the light comes on, but easiest way is to inspect the drain back valve first, also I have fixed all the leaks including new PCV valve, valve cover gasket and oil pressure switch only sources of leaks last couple of years, also oil is clean was changed in April, if the valve was broken you would think they would have noticed it, the oil levels are full too.
Thanks for the advice appreciate the quick response.
Although I don't really have any further info to contribute to what others have already suggested (including my own previous post: #33). My low pressure light never came on.
I just wanted to chime in by saying thank you for reviving this discussion.
Not necessarily withstanding; my post #33... but-
I recently tackled an long overdue leaking oil pan gasket.
I'd just replaced the gasket in addition to a filter and oil change. Oil leak solved.
Except for one constant minor 2" oil drip, evident after the car was parked after 2wo hrs.
After reading this currently revived thread; this morning I went out and removed the exhaust manifold heat shield and felt around the oil filter housing pressure sending switch adapter.
In doing so I discovered the minor leak - A loose hose clamp from my oil pressure gauge causing the small leak.
My aftermarket oil pressure gauge is now reading 5-6psi @ hot idle (as opposed to 0).
No more oil leak.
Hi, I went out today and the light did not turn on. Tried to simulate the same trip, was actually on my way to the dealer and could not get it it to turn on at idle. I said I'll keep an eye on it. It was better than the other day. On the way home stuck in traffic no light. It only flickered once at a light while braking but then at a complete stop it would stay off. Same when driving down a ramp and braking the light flickered this time not on solid and when I stopped let it idle for a few more min still no light. I'll be monitoring it for a while not spending hundreds until the light is on more often.
Since i've been driving the car more after the new oil pressure switch was installed the light has stopped intermittently turning on during idle, and was flickering at one time which was weird, but it now stays off all the time regardless of traffic conditions or trip distance etc. Mystery unknown maybe it needed a break in period or there may have been air in the switch that is now ok? who knows lol
