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Well, the little vented box located on the rear headliner (directly below the antenna) is slightly damp. I'll quiz the mechanic about the issue. Methinks that it is the antenna rubber gasket. As you know...South Florida sun is wicked on rubber parts...although I do keep mine drenched in Aerospace 303 (weekly). I recently replaced the headliner , I would hate to see it get soggy. Plus, it would start to smell like an old car.
New tail lamps from Way Motor....before and after (on a rainy morning). I am totally happy, the pictures don't do the refreshing justice. The leaking antenna issue was addressed, too. First, the rear sunroof drains were checked ( no clog..), and so the mechanic (Jim).. cranked down the interior bolt slightly ( the bolt that attaches the antenna to the roof). I am to keep an eyeball..or two..on it.
No charge today..so I passed Jim some cash ( a fifty). I'm grateful to have been recommended this repair facility.
Next, I need my headlamps to look flawless.
to be continued.........
Last edited by Monkey Juice; Sep 21, 2020 at 11:02 AM.
You could use fluid film on any area that has the potential for rust from leaks... Others have had great success using it in the salt belt area to preserve their frames on the 3rd gen Rams (and all cars that applied it)
whilst pulling my sweet MINI out of the driveway, a heard an awful hissing sound coming from the passenger front...followed by a plume of smoke. I think that the a/c blasted all of its coolant onto the motor! I immediately turned off the a/c...and checked all fluids..all are full. So I drove to the grocery store with no a/c. The car ran perfect. I'm reasonably certain that it is the a/c..and I am afraid to turn it on (I don't want to ruin anything). I can see some oil like substance sprayed onto the lower passenger engine zone...possibly a/c coolant?
So...after foolishly spending nearly 5 grand on the little monster last month, I look forward to another large repair bill this week.
The current a/c system was replaced less than 5 years ago.
I am bummed!
Just venting (probably warm air)...but kind advice welcome!
Best,
Tired Mark
ps..edited to politely ask where the compressed/dryer are located on the 2005 r53? and what would be the consequence if I attempted to turn on the a/c? Is the coolant also the lubricant to the compressor? And......I only got 12,000 miles out of the old system!! Yikes.
Last edited by Monkey Juice; Oct 4, 2020 at 11:36 AM.
Compressor is in that location (lower front passenger side of engine). Dryer is mounted vertically next to the AC radiator.
Lubrication for the system is PAG oil, but it coexists with the R134a refrigerant in the system.
The mobile mechanic that is doing my a/c repair this week also has a shop in west palm. Getting a new compressor and drier, Evap. All that good stuff. I’ll let you know how it goes. Should’ve been done by now but I had other stuff come up.
Getting a Carquest brand a/c compressor kit installed tomorrow for $250 in labor. Has a lifetime warranty on the parts. If it goes out, labor won’t be too ridiculous to get it fixed under the warranty.
Getting a Carquest brand a/c compressor kit installed tomorrow for $250 in labor. Has a lifetime warranty on the parts. If it goes out, labor won’t be too ridiculous to get it fixed under the warranty.
Ouch...I seen ur posts above and the labor costs are 3/4 ur price tag you been spending...don't be afraid to shop around or get mechanics to do work on the side NOT in a shop under ridiculous shop prices..
I drop the car off this morning for an evaluation and repair. ..whatever the repair is. I will be using the same independent mechanic who has done the last few repairs. Perhaps since the system was replaced only 12,000 miles ago (5 years ago), the dryer will not need to be replaced..but maybe it should be replaced anyhow. I hope to know more before lunchtime!
I am oh so tempted to park the little red monster (garaged and covered)..and stop by the Mercedes dealership on my way home today. I require a reliable car to sooth my fragile mental health. The gin and tonics aren't helping as well as they should.
I secretly take a couple of puffs daily...since childhood. Prefer Crypt.
So the repair facility is advising replacement of the compressor, dryer ad the evaporator...or whatever. The manager mentioned that if the compressor were grinding internally, then small metal shavings will toast the existing dryer and evaporator. All will be fine soon.
My loaner is an old car from my parents Florida garage. it is a 1978 Rolls Royce Shadow..proudly purchased new by my father, with half of the mileage on the clock as my low mile'd MINI. A tank. Not a particularly pleasant car to drive...but very cold A/C. I did stop and sniff out the certified pre owned Mercedes at the local dealer this morning...and saw nothing that would make me as happy as a repaired MINI. Newer cars are just so expensive! my god. I am getting frugal.
You would be in for about $650 all in. if they did the job for you. I know you said you are going with the shop you went to last time, but just as a price comparison for you. Maybe you can negotiate their labor down a touch. Took them 3 hours. Including doing the harmonic damper pulley as well.
The ATI damper idles really smooth if that’s ever a part you are replacing. Only added $100 to the labor because doing the a/c gains the access to it anyway. And they replaced the crank seal behind there at the same time.
I was quoted just a squeak under $2500. for all a/c components replaced. Using OEM parts.
I pick the monster up tomorrow evening...hopefully.
Maybe I should ___________?
Best,
Mark
if it’s an OEM compressor, then that’s easily over $700 alone. Are they doing the condenser as well? How many labor hours are they charging? I guess you’ll see when you get the bill.
I’d reevaluate using that shop. Seems pretty pricey. I’m sure still a lot less than the dealer.
R53 ownership seems to need either DIY repair and/or find cheap labor and alternatives to OEM parts.
A new JCW Cooper might be cheaper than continued large repair bills. Lease would be $4000-5000 a year maybe.
I never expect anything I replace on a used car to last longer than the original factory warranty. Lol. So your a/c going out again after 5 years, even though the miles are low, isn’t really surprising.
While the car is apart replace the air conditioning system today...should I have the mechanic replace the crankshaft seal?
I understand that access to this inexpensive seal would be simplified.
So many thanks if anyone can chime in early today!! haha.
Always,
Mark
crank position sensor seal you should do. There is a crank seal behind the harmonic damper (crank pulley) as well. If he is not charging extra labor. Replace both.
if he said oil was leaking down the front of your motor, that’s the crank position sensor seal going bad for sure.
