Brought my Mini to a shop in Burbank after replacing Angle sensor to program to car and turn off the trifecta of dash lights ; about $80 …

 

yes sir, im told you would use NCSExpert for this. NCSExpert is part of the inpa software suite. you likely already have it installed. there are instruction and even an example on the same bmw thread.

sorry i've not tried NCSExpert yet so i can't be more helpful at this time.

adrian on this site will do this as a service i hear

 

from the same bmw thread:

Software Definitions:

• INPA - Diagnosis, resetting errors, aligning EWS/CAS, advanced activation of certain car behaviors (ex: turn on your ABS module for bleeding brakes) - MOSTLY SAFE
• NCSExpert - Coding (changing internal module settings, and marrying a module to the car - Advanced)
• WinKFP - Flashing (you need the Daten files for your car, and you need to load them to WinKFP - Very Advanced)
• Tool32 - An advanced tool that is used to load the INPA/DIS/ISTA .prg files to run custom diagnostics and module behavior manually, without a nice user interface. Very powerful. - Advanced
• EDIABAS - The virtual server service that the 4 programs above use to connect to your cable.
• TIS - Technical Information System. Repair manual for BMWs.

• Other Softwares:
  NCSDummy - A 3rd party helper for NCSExpert coding file interpretation. Not completely necessary. It is for changing settings inside a module mostly. (Ex: Turning off the iDrive warning on start, or changing module behavior, or changing the way the temperature dummy gauge's range on the instrument cluster.)

 

Thank you! That is really helpful.

I got to the same conclusion yesterday, and was messing with NCSExpert. It looked like the right tool for the job, and I did... something... to the DSC, but it didn't seem to fix it yet. So I am still hunting. It could be some issue with my car as well, it is odd that SO many things that are supposed to be able to do the calibration, aren't able to do it. Maybe it is just that I haven't married the sensor to the VIN yet, and as soon as I do, then all the other stuff will work right (NT510 elite scanner, INPA, etc).

INPA shows an error "5E43 - Steering Angle Sensor Internal".
INPA shows "11 wrong LWS-ID"
NCS Expert says "get coded: EWS Coding is faulty"

But the NCS Expert stuff is really confusing, and a little terrifying, so I am going very gently through there and may just be using it wrong. I am not seeing the same options as the BMW videos that do it, but even they say "I only see this option with one version of NCS, don't know why". So there is voodoo in there for sure.

The lesson for a rational person here is to just take it to somebody with the right scanner and have them sort it, but I am now interested in going further down the rabbit hole and learning more about what all these tools can do. It is foolish in terms of the time I have spent just trying to get this SAS fix done, but I have learned a lot of other really useful tricks doing it. And historically, it is probably a good time to get a Windows 7 laptop (which I had laying around anyway) all set up and working with all the right software for this car, and then imaging or taking said laptop off the Internet forever so I have a working tool regardless of what Microsoft or the tools do in the future.

I'll post whatever I figure out, thanks for all the help so far!

 

yes sir, please do get back with what you find.

There is another option / software that might be able to do this if i remember right. I was researching this some time back now so i could be remembering wrong. Its a newer software, also free. Let me try and dig it up. I'll be needing it soon for another car. I'll get back if i can find it

 

I think the software you may be talking about is ISTA or Rheingold. It doesn't appear to be a part of the INPA / NCS Expert package installed here.

I made more progress, but not quite there yet.

In NCS Expert

1. File->Profile->Load-> Revtors Expert Profile
2. VIN/2CS/FA
3. 2CS/FA F.ECU
4. EWS
5. (Now you should see your VIN loaded with an extra character at the end (a Z for me, probably a checkdigit or something)
6. Back
7. Process ECU
8. MK60
9. Change Job
10. SG_Codieren
11. Execute Job

That claims to have worked successfully, but that isn't exactly what i need. I think that recoded the DSC ECU to the car, but that is still original. So I need something very similar to that process, but that has the option for SZL. I looked everywhere in NCS Expert and couldn't find it.

So I am still generating codes for "11 wrong LWS-ID 0B 24 B7". And I can't find any "LWS calibration" option in INPA, but perhaps it is purposefully hiding it because it knows it won't work until the steering angle sensor is coded for the car.

So I don't know if SZL is buried somewhere in NCS Expert and I am just not finding it, or if there are other config files for it that exist or that could be created that would show it, or if the tool just can't do it.

It looks like ISTA/Rheingold has the steering angle calibration routines if I can find those. Though I suspect my foxwell scanner (NT510 elite) will work also if I can just get the stupid thing coded to the car.

Really frustrating that the sensor works fine, I can see it working and registering in the car with INPA and the Foxwell scanner. So it is generating the right data and the car is reading it. Really stupid that BMW required it to be coded to the car to work.

 

The Swaben NT -510 Elite does not pair the Steering Angle Sensor to the car even after setting the steering wheel straight ; a waste of time…

 

Ok, I think I finally cracked it! Three drives now, and the light is staying out, and the DSC is doing its thing correctly when appropriate.

Here is what finally worked.

1. Get the K+DCAN adapter referenced by ssoliman above. I got that installed and working with INPA first, not sure if that code was needed, or if the stuff below here would work from scratch with that cable (I suspect that is the case)
2. Get a copy of ISTAP (aka ISTA/P, ISTA-P, and I think Rheingold). I got mine from a half sketchy online performance parts company for $40, I am sure I could have gotten it free somewhere as well, but this kept me from having to put sketchy file sharing software on my machine and chasing down a bunch of bogus packages. I didn't find any malware in it, but who knows, so I put it on an old burner machine I have and that doesn't have other sensitive data on it.
3. Install it according to the instructions that came with ISTA-P. A little fussy, but not too bad.
4. Hook your car up to a stable voltage source (maybe doing all this with the engine running would be fine as well). I used an old big "dumb" 15 amp charger I have, which holds a perfect 14.5 volts. I think the car has to be between 14 and 15 volts for any of this to work.
5. Connect cable with the car and the laptop
6. Car ignition in position 2
7. Double click the ISTA-P loader shortcut
8. Select K+DCAN USB
9. Select Mini
10. ISTA-P will then eventually load
11. Click "Create New Session"
12. Click "Select ISTA/ Server Automatically"
13. Click continue
14. Click "K+DCAN Next" to highlight it
15. Click "Connect"
16. Wait for the progress bar to stop scrolling (you will do this several times, I don't think it is actually necessary, but it seems prudent to be patient with this)
17. You should see you VIN show up while scanning, which means you are talking to the car
18. Click "No" for "were control modules replaced?" (Not sure what this is for or when you would do it, but I could do the steering angle sensor here after clicking "no")
19. Click "Yes" for "Prevent transmission of process log to BMW..." (no idea what would happen if you did this, the ISTAP software I bought looks like some open source stuff, but maybe some bootleg BMW stuff as well, not sure,but if BMW is going to force stupid and unnecessary things like coding a steering angle sensor to a vehicle VIN just to work, then I feel I have to right to do what is necessary to overcome that predatory lockdown).
20. Click the confirmation box for "Before starting vehicle programming, ensure..."
21. Click Continue
22. (Another long wait)
23. You will see your car's modules begin to populate. And start hearing voices. (The radio turns itself on )
24. Note the car voltage displayed at the top. Again, I think it needs to be stable and between 14 and 15 for the coding and calibration to work.
25. Wait for the progress bar to stop spinning again
26. Click "Control Module Tree"
27. Click on the LWS module
28. Click the "code" option
29. Click Close
30. Click "Determine Measures Plan
31. Review the plan
32. Click "Accept Measures Plan"
33. Watch it executing...
34. When told, turn off ignition for 30 seconds, and turn back on
35. Click "Termination"
36. Wait again
37. Review the report when displayed
38. I got a warning on clear fault code, success on everything else, including "Success on Read and Write CKM settings", and "Vehicle Order Alignment Successfull"
39. The Steering Angle Sensor should now be coded to the vehicle.
40. Click on "continue session"
41. Click the "Vehicle" tab
42. Click the "Programming Follow Up Routine" option
43. Click "Adjustment, Steering Angle Sensor"
44. Click "Determine Measures Plan"
45. Make sure wheels are pointed straight ahead (just close enough, you don't need to break out strings and tape measures)
46. Click "Accept Measures Plan"
47. Wait while it executes
48. Turn off ignition for 30 seconds when told, and turn back on to position 2
49. Click Termination
50. Review final report, which included "Steering Angle Sensor- Successfull"
51. Click "End Session"
52. Done!

I just redid all of this from scratch to get more coherent notes, and haven't driven it again yet, so hopefully I didn't undo what I had successfully done the first time. I expect it is fine.

INPA and other things perhaps would have worked fine as well, if I had known to get a stable 14.5 volts source on it, I am not sure, and now that I found a path that works I am kind of over doing more research for it. I don't think the Foxwell NT510 or Creator scanners would ever work... I am not sure they can do the coding, just the calibration, so if you replace the sensor you are stuck. I contacted Foxwell support and let them know, and they were surprisingly responsive and tried hard to help, but they didn't solve the problem.

The steering angle sensor I am using is a URO branded one I ordered from Rock Auto (ÜRO PARTS 32306793632 Steering Wheel Position Sensor $ 109.79)

Hope that helps somebody! Those that just took it to a dealer weren't crazy, this ended up being "cheap", but it took a LOT of hours to sort out.

 

Wow thats some good detail. glad to hear you got it!

Here are two other options that might do this and are maybe easier to use? Let me know what you think

https://www.tunerpro.net/features.htm

https://www.romraider.com/index.php/RomRaider/Features

 

Thanks! I should dig into tuner pro, because it also supports some of my other poor life decisions (Buell motorcycles).

I have a bunch of parts coming now for more to do to the R53, but none of it is digital. I have to replace power steering hoses, drivers side window regulator, and all brakes and rotors. Though I will probably wait to do the power steering hose until I have do the clutch again (at which point the whole system is out from the car completely). It's a slow leak at the top, and I bet self fusing silicone rescue tape could stop it for a year or two.

I also use ISTA/P to turn of that stupid "auto lock the doors" feature. If I want them locked, I will lock them, and if I unlock them, I don't want the car second guessing me. So that was a nice bonus.

 

Been 6 months now and the Uro parts sensor is still working fine. The clutch is now fried again though (fortunately it gave it's life to the last new manual transmission learner in the family, so the next one may last longer), and the power steering tubes are leaking slowly (have been for 10 years) so I will do those while it is apart, as well as replace the oil cooler which I have been nervous about not having done when I replaced the head, water pump, and thermostat after the thermostat failed and blew a head gasket. Which turned out fortunate, as I found one cam lobe was in pretty bad shape. It's a hobby!

 

I tried setting the speed threshold for this higher with NCS Expert, but the setting did not apply properly.