R50/53 Mysterious whine (not the typical supercharger whine) after engine maintenance.
Have you removed the serpentine belt to see if the whine persists? Take the belt off, start the car if the whine is gone, then you know it's not coming from the engine then you just have the parts that use a pulley to contend with:
SC
AC
Belt Tensioner
Alternator
Idler Pulley
With the belt off, you can also turn the pulleys on the above items to see if they are grinding or hard to spin freely.
SC
AC
Belt Tensioner
Alternator
Idler Pulley
With the belt off, you can also turn the pulleys on the above items to see if they are grinding or hard to spin freely.
I am not there to help you, but, if you can contact others in your area, you will find someone to help you. You are not qualified to make the correct diagnosis and need someone that is. I am sure some Mini guys could help you there!
I doubt very much it is the pulley, or the belt. The cam chain tensioner and the guides seem like the appropriate items to check.
It is not always the easy stuff is wrong with an engine. Get help! Mini guys will often meet with you, in your area.
I doubt very much it is the pulley, or the belt. The cam chain tensioner and the guides seem like the appropriate items to check.
It is not always the easy stuff is wrong with an engine. Get help! Mini guys will often meet with you, in your area.
Though I've never tried it on Scarlet, I would imagine it would start and run until the battery died. I've done it on many other cars. I wouldn't recommend doing it for a long period of time, just long enough to hear if the whine has stopped.
Be careful, this is an easy way to fry the alternator!
Question: You said that you don't mind breaking out the wrenches to figure out your problem, Do you have the wrenches that you need to break out? Not trying to be funny, but do you have the proper tools, skill set and desire to break your car down to find out what is wrong and the ability to fix it. Wayne brings up a few valid points, none of us are there to help you diagnose your car. When I got my first Mini, I didn't know much about them; however, in one of my previous lives, I built engines and worked as a mechanic. I had a very modest tool set which pretty much lived in a 5 gallon bucket. When I needed to get to a tool, I emptied the bucket on the floor, (seriously). Since that time, I've spent hundreds, if not more making sure I have the correct tools to work on Scarlet. There is a ton of info on this site and plenty of people to give their opinions on what they may think is wrong. At the end of the day, you have to get your hands dirty, ( get some gloves
) and apply some of this knowledge. Have some fun and I hope you figure out what the problem is soon.....
) and apply some of this knowledge. Have some fun and I hope you figure out what the problem is soon.....
I always buy tools as I need them and add them to my collection. And I am no stranger to poking around various engine bays, I've done an entire drivetrain swap on a 1994 a4 Avante with a buddy. My main limitation right now is that I moved to SoCal, away from all my friends and their fancy garages, all I have is an assigned parking space (which I have done reasonably involved work on a Rav4 with). So without the freedom of a garage, I have to be realistic about what I can accomplish.
I have taken this car to a local Mini Cooper independent shop, a nice mechanic from there spent about 25 minutes looking at my car and told me that it was fine, so I went for another opinion from a local performance car shop that has experience with r53s, and they told me the exact same thing. Both of them told me to drive the **** out of it until it breaks and to throw as little money at it as possible lol.
Anyway, new development as of today, I noticed that on the drive from work to a food joint, the noise went away for the most part, hooray! Now it only makes the expected supercharger whine under engine load. Interestingly, the EML did come on during my trip back to the office, but no CEL to accompany it, no performance issues, and when I shut it off and then turned it back on, the EML was gone.
The only other curiosity is that since the thermostat housing (and presumable the thermostat, I'll have to look at my invoice) were swapped, the engine now operates at a baseline temperature of 188f according to my scanguage, as opposed to the 195f that it used to run at before the servicing. Im guessing that the wrong spec thermostat was installed, is this any cause for concern?
I have taken this car to a local Mini Cooper independent shop, a nice mechanic from there spent about 25 minutes looking at my car and told me that it was fine, so I went for another opinion from a local performance car shop that has experience with r53s, and they told me the exact same thing. Both of them told me to drive the **** out of it until it breaks and to throw as little money at it as possible lol.
Anyway, new development as of today, I noticed that on the drive from work to a food joint, the noise went away for the most part, hooray! Now it only makes the expected supercharger whine under engine load. Interestingly, the EML did come on during my trip back to the office, but no CEL to accompany it, no performance issues, and when I shut it off and then turned it back on, the EML was gone.
The only other curiosity is that since the thermostat housing (and presumable the thermostat, I'll have to look at my invoice) were swapped, the engine now operates at a baseline temperature of 188f according to my scanguage, as opposed to the 195f that it used to run at before the servicing. Im guessing that the wrong spec thermostat was installed, is this any cause for concern?
I just stumbled upon this revived thread today.
After listening to the OP's video - The described "non associated SC" whine sounds VERY similar to the sound my failing idler pulled made a few days before it's bearing exploded.
After listening to the OP's video - The described "non associated SC" whine sounds VERY similar to the sound my failing idler pulled made a few days before it's bearing exploded.
I always buy tools as I need them and add them to my collection. And I am no stranger to poking around various engine bays, I've done an entire drivetrain swap on a 1994 a4 Avante with a buddy. My main limitation right now is that I moved to SoCal, away from all my friends and their fancy garages, all I have is an assigned parking space (which I have done reasonably involved work on a Rav4 with). So without the freedom of a garage, I have to be realistic about what I can accomplish.
I have taken this car to a local Mini Cooper independent shop, a nice mechanic from there spent about 25 minutes looking at my car and told me that it was fine, so I went for another opinion from a local performance car shop that has experience with r53s, and they told me the exact same thing. Both of them told me to drive the **** out of it until it breaks and to throw as little money at it as possible lol.
Anyway, new development as of today, I noticed that on the drive from work to a food joint, the noise went away for the most part, hooray! Now it only makes the expected supercharger whine under engine load. Interestingly, the EML did come on during my trip back to the office, but no CEL to accompany it, no performance issues, and when I shut it off and then turned it back on, the EML was gone.
The only other curiosity is that since the thermostat housing (and presumable the thermostat, I'll have to look at my invoice) were swapped, the engine now operates at a baseline temperature of 188f according to my scanguage, as opposed to the 195f that it used to run at before the servicing. Im guessing that the wrong spec thermostat was installed, is this any cause for concern?
I have taken this car to a local Mini Cooper independent shop, a nice mechanic from there spent about 25 minutes looking at my car and told me that it was fine, so I went for another opinion from a local performance car shop that has experience with r53s, and they told me the exact same thing. Both of them told me to drive the **** out of it until it breaks and to throw as little money at it as possible lol.
Anyway, new development as of today, I noticed that on the drive from work to a food joint, the noise went away for the most part, hooray! Now it only makes the expected supercharger whine under engine load. Interestingly, the EML did come on during my trip back to the office, but no CEL to accompany it, no performance issues, and when I shut it off and then turned it back on, the EML was gone.
The only other curiosity is that since the thermostat housing (and presumable the thermostat, I'll have to look at my invoice) were swapped, the engine now operates at a baseline temperature of 188f according to my scanguage, as opposed to the 195f that it used to run at before the servicing. Im guessing that the wrong spec thermostat was installed, is this any cause for concern?
hi, sorry for reviving an old thread. But did you end up finding what the issue was? My car has developed the same whine/whistling noise and I can’t find the source. It exactly as the ones on your videos.
Ya, this thread just sort of went cold, they probably had a catastrophic failure and ended up getting rid of the car. I listened to the video and it's hard to diagnose anything with confidence as the loss of sound quality makes it hard to discern the "noise" from the normal engine chatter and actual SC whine. However, considering what I've heard from the video at idle (not throttle because the SC drowns it out), it does sound like a shoddy belt tensioner, this would also explain the felt lack of power under throttle. It's a common part to replace at the 100K mark and when a new one gets installed the car pulls like new. If you swap the part, add in a new belt while you're at it for peace of mind.
Important to note that people were suggesting the chain tensioner earlier, because in the video, you can hear the rattling "ticking" sound of the chain bouncing off of the chain guides while idling. If you have that ticking sound, I recommend adding about 1/3 a can of Seafoam to the crankcase/oil supply and drive the car normally for about 150 miles, then change the oil and filter completely. This will soften up a lot of oil sludge in the system and might clear out the chain tensioner. If the ticking sound remains after adding fresh oil, then you should plan on replacing the tensioner.
Important to note that people were suggesting the chain tensioner earlier, because in the video, you can hear the rattling "ticking" sound of the chain bouncing off of the chain guides while idling. If you have that ticking sound, I recommend adding about 1/3 a can of Seafoam to the crankcase/oil supply and drive the car normally for about 150 miles, then change the oil and filter completely. This will soften up a lot of oil sludge in the system and might clear out the chain tensioner. If the ticking sound remains after adding fresh oil, then you should plan on replacing the tensioner.
MINI R52 whine noise
Good morning, I write you from Italy and my Mini has the same problem.
The noise occurred After replacing the water pump, compressor pulley and belt tensioner.
Can you tell me how you solved your problem please? I would be infinitely grateful
The noise occurred After replacing the water pump, compressor pulley and belt tensioner.
Can you tell me how you solved your problem please? I would be infinitely grateful
Good morning, I write you from Italy and my Mini has the same problem.
The noise occurred After replacing the water pump, compressor pulley and belt tensioner. Can you tell me how you solved your problem please? I would be infinitely grateful
The noise occurred After replacing the water pump, compressor pulley and belt tensioner. Can you tell me how you solved your problem please? I would be infinitely grateful
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