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So, I tried every method to get it out but couldn't. I ended up using a grinding bit to grind it flat so I'd have a surface to drill in and then use a left hand bit or an extractor (I have both).
Unfortunately, I can spend 5 minutes drilling and not even scratch the surface. Is there a special drill bit that I need? I can't drill at this thing in this position for hours. Something isn't right.
Do you have a Dremel? If so, you could use parting wheel & make 2 grooves 90 deg cross. Then use a hand (hammer) impact tool with large phillips bit to get it to turn,.
Or just bite the bullet & pull the oil pan so you can work on it on bench.
Last edited by Minidogger; Apr 30, 2019 at 07:12 PM.
Reason: more ideas
Do you have a Dremel? If so, you could use parting wheel & make 2 grooves 90 deg cross. Then use a hand (hammer) impact tool with large phillips bit to get it to turn,.
Or just bite the bullet & pull the oil pan so you can work on it on bench.
I think that I forgot about the concept of needing to use a punch followed by a starter bit to get the process going. I started with a 1/8 drill bit but it stopped moving after a while. I then tried a #3 easy out to no avail. If I cranked on it any more I am sure it would have broken.
I will probably just end up pulling the pan if needed.
Before I started grinding on the plug, I would get a hammer & chisel and then try to hit the edge of the plug to unscrew it and see if you can get it to move a little bit.....
Followup thought - Use reinforced abrasive disc in the dremel, Definitely use a full face shield + don't have your face inline with the rotation plane. They can break without warning.
Make it as deep as possible and wide enough to fit the biggest screwdriver you can find. Try to use a square shaft screwdriver so you can use a wrench to help turn it.
Actually, I’d suggest a used oil pan. There are several on eBay at the moment in the neighborhood of $80 w/free shipping.
And don’t forget to grab an Fumoto valve (p/n F106 below) for when you swap it out.
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ETA: Maybe before you give up on this pan, you could drill a hole in the plug to drain the engine oil, then remove the pan and try to drill out the plug on a drill press with a proper sized bit? Might save you the cost of purchasing a replacement.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; May 2, 2019 at 02:38 AM.
Reason: Addendum
Actually, I’d suggest a used oil pan. There are several on eBay at the moment in the neighborhood of $80 w/free shipping.
And don’t forget to grab an Fumoto valve (p/n F106 below) for when you swap it out.
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ETA: Maybe before you give up on this pan, you could drill a hole in the plug to drain the engine oil, then remove the pan and try to drill out the plug on a drill press with a proper sized bit? Might save you the cost of purchasing a replacement.
I have had some variations of your idea. First, is there anything inherently wrong with a new aftermarket oil pan? I think that all things considered I'd prefer that option. Probably sub 80 bucks. I have always gone this route on non minis and no issues. Any different on the mini?
Was thinking of getting an extractor that could work for both power bleeding my new slave cylinder and either doing oil changes with it moving forward or at least getting the oil out for this time.
I don't have a drill press and have never used one. If am getting a new pan I might drill a hole through the pan since that takea far less time than that plug in that position. Of course the pan would be trash but it's probably getting close to being trash at the moment lol.
1. Did you see my post from YEARS ago and repeated regularly: the bung is a 1/2 inch perfect fit ..... the metric is loose and screws you up
2. These have never failed me on a stuck bung
these are IRWIN brand, I'm sure there are others. They bite into heads under reverse (remove) motion .... hammer it on to get a grip then the more you torque the deeper they dig
3. The bung for a GEN1 MINI is a one time use, throw it away item ...... most folks miss that point. Then the problem becomes the deterioration of the plastic seal .....
got my first MINI in fall of 2002 .... been turning wrenches and offering my garage and tools ever since ...... if you want to listen to me tell sea stories while I help you DIY and learn!
1. Did you see my post from YEARS ago and repeated regularly: the bung is a 1/2 inch perfect fit ..... the metric is loose and screws you up
2. These have never failed me on a stuck bung
these are IRWIN brand, I'm sure there are others. They bite into heads under reverse (remove) motion .... hammer it on to get a grip then the more you torque the deeper they dig
3. The bung for a GEN1 MINI is a one time use, throw it away item ...... most folks miss that point. Then the problem becomes the deterioration of the plastic seal .....
got my first MINI in fall of 2002 .... been turning wrenches and offering my garage and tools ever since ...... if you want to listen to me tell sea stories while I help you DIY and learn!
Remember, I got the car like this so it was too late to even consider initial removal tips. Of course, I will heed these notes and all others moving forward. No metric for me!
I have the extractors that you pictured but there was really nothing left of the bolt. The pictures of what appear to be left do it no justice.
I have been turning wrenches since the late 90's myself and this was an exceptional mess.
At 146K your oil pan gasket is probably leaking anyways, so just bite the bullet and drop the pan, either replace it or drill out the stub, install a Fumoto, and reassemble with a new oil pan gasket.
At 146K your oil pan gasket is probably leaking anyways, so just bite the bullet and drop the pan, either replace it or drill out the stub, install a Fumoto, and reassemble with a new oil pan gasket.
Exactly, I just grabbed one from ebay where tons were sold (often but not always a good indicator that the part is ok). I did find some space last night to grind a slot and attempt to turn it by hand and also with 2 impacts to no avail. This was the final straw!
While on topic, anything else that I should be doing while down there? Huge fan of not broken don't fix it, but curious. Also, any suggestions on getting the oil out of the old pan? Drill a hole? Would rather not buy an extractor.
One suggestion to avoid some grief.
Don’t drill a hole in the pan until you
confirm that you can access and start
to loosen all the oil pan bolts, and are
pretty sure you have a good replacement
pan and gasket.
One suggestion to avoid some grief.
Don’t drill a hole in the pan until you
confirm that you can access and start
to loosen all the oil pan bolts, and are
pretty sure you have a good replacement
pan and gasket.
You should check to see if the gaskets on the oil filter housing and oil cooler are leaking and if so this would be the time to change them. As I recall access would be somewhat easier with the oil pan out of the way.
I'll tell you this, I have removed several of these "frozen" oil plugs, but I found all of them the flat gasket area was the thing that was freezing them, from coming out. I will admit that yours is butchered more than any I have tried to remove, but maybe if you use a dremel tool to grind away the flat part of the plug, it may just come out easy. I have never had to change a pan, in the dozen or so, I have done with Minis'. Hope you have success!
Last edited by ItsmeWayne; May 4, 2019 at 10:16 AM.
Weld a nut onto it and take it off. If you can’t weld take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld it on. It’ll be way cheaper than destroying your oil pan.