I'm going off memory here but I don't think my Pittsburg line wrench set include an 11mm wrench, iirc it skips from 10mm to 12mm. My Matco set does....but that was something like $90 vs the $15 HF wants for theirs....
I'm losing the fight. I've repeatedly soaked in PB Blaster, and I've hit it with heat. These bolts will not budge. Any other thoughts?
Edit:
Got 1 off...
Unfortunately, my experience with these has been a chore at best as well.
The only way I've found to remove them without destroying them is, time (many soak and heat cycles with PB-Blaster, at least a couple of hours in 30 min intervals) and a well powered Impact Gun. (The strongest 20v I've found is the HF earthquake ¾" version w/ ½" adaptor socket, and while air works, the power of the gun is wholly dependant on the air supply, which many home mechanics just don't have)
Good Luck.
You can also "shock" them with a single, solid hard strike with a hammer, flat on the head.
I swear I've had it work.
There's no more torque force that a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a jack handle. Could be a length of metal pipe, whatever gives you lots of leverage. It will help to have someone hold the socket oriented on the bolt when using a long lever. It starts getting unwieldy and you DON'T want to twist the corners off that bolt.
You can also "shock" them with a single, solid hard strike with a hammer, flat on the head.
I swear I've had it work.
There's no more torque force that a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a jack handle. Could be a length of metal pipe, whatever gives you lots of leverage. It will help to have someone hold the socket oriented on the bolt when using a long lever. It starts getting unwieldy and you DON'T want to twist the corners off that bolt.
While this is correct, the other issue with a breaker bar and cheater pipe -vs- an impact is that there is also a better chance of twisting/snapping the bolt head off with the breaker bar.
So if you try this, pay plenty of attention to the movement of the bolt.
And yes, the hammer trick does work, usually best to use a brass hammer.
I agree with pretty much everything above. keep hitting it with PB blaster, and I would get it red hot with the torch if you can. The only thing I can think of that hasn't been said is sometimes it helps to break loose the rust bonds by trying to tighten the bolt and then loosen it. Being calm and patient now when they're not stripped/broken will pay dividends when you're not drilling the bolt out.
If its on the front wheel pop your tie rod end or ball joint off so you can get your impact gun in there. Air is better than electric as far as an impact gun is concerned, if that is an option. A breaker bar with a cheater pipe will definitely get it off but that does come with the risk of sheering the bolt. Hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer will help break it loose but if you cant get your impact in there then I doubt you'd be able to swing a hammer in there either. I have an IR 2100G impact gun, among others), and while its only rated at 550 lb/ft I very very rarely find a bolt it wont remove. I have actually broken wheel studs while REMOVING nuts that people have cross threaded! As far as heat is concerned, make sure your heating the knuckle and caliper bracket. Try to keep the heat away from the bolt. You want the metal the bolt is stuck in to expand not the bolt itself.
Where are you located? Anywhere near the coastal VA/NC border?? I have a portable Rigid compressor I could bring by with a good impact gun if your anywhere nearby.
EDIT: I thought of another trick right after I posted that. Get it good and hot then shoot it with PB while its still hot. Sometimes that rapid cooling will shock the bolt enough to get it off. It'll smoke a lot but I've never had it light on fire.
I disagree, but that is only based on my own experience.
I bought a Dewalt DCF899 not too long ago to tackle a dreaded crankshuft nut on my Volvo S80. I already had a impact wrench on battery, but it lacked the power and I sorta lost confidence in them. But this review did it for me
I disagree, but that is only based on my own experience.
I bought a Dewalt DCF899 not too long ago to tackle a dreaded crankshuft nut on my Volvo S80. I already had a impact wrench on battery, but it lacked the power and I sorta lost confidence in them. But this review did it for me
I have the 20v Dewalt 1/2" cordless and a 18v Milwaukee 3/4" and neither one compare to my 1/2" and 3/4" Ingersoll Rand air impact guns. They battery guns are also very big and heavy. But they are crazy handy if you don't have an air compressor and have the room to use them! As was mentioned before though with air tools a sufficient air supply is critical. For most DIYers a battery (or corded) impact makes more sense.
And I also misspoke in my earlier message (I went to see what models I have lol) My 1/2" is the titanium composite 2135 rated at 780 ft/lb, and the 3/4" is the 2100 series (2141?) rated at 1000 ft/lb. My problem with batteries is I kill them too fast. With a good air supply I can pound on something til it breaks or comes off lol. I also recently got the 20v Dewalt DCF887. THAT THING IS A BEAST!!! The only problem I have with it is its so strong it regularly snaps my socket adapters
The battery impacts are getting crazy strong indeed. And you are correct, having a good air supply is a must if you want to have good performance on air, which is not practical for everyone (myself included).
150psi, 650 ft/lbs...
I've spent roughly 3x the money in tools vs parts now, but I won the battle against those bolts and that's what really matters.
Once I got through those bolts, things went pretty smooth. Right up until I sheared off a bolt. That required some engineering and a trip to the auto parts store for a replacement bolt. As of right now the brakes are done. All that's left is to bleed them, but my wife's patience was running thin so I wrapped up.
I think it looks pretty great.
Now the question is 225 or 245 for the Hoosiers?
Pay special attention to my unfiltered emotions/reactions :P
