R50/53 No PS, low electric power after pothole/puddle
No PS, low electric power after pothole/puddle
I hit the dreaded pothole that was filled with just enough water to not see it. Immediately my windshield wipers started slowing down. Then I turned and noticed the Power Steering was gone. Oh. The battery light is on. So I turned off my headlights, and it went away.
I was literally rushing to an appointment I could not miss, so since the battery light went out, I drove the half an hour to the appointment. Came back out, car started just fine, but same electrical concerns. I also noticed it seems to be idling faster than I’m used to, but I can’t guarantee that.
Since the light does not stay on, I have to assume the alternator is reporting a charge. I could see knocking out my electric power steering, but to slow down my wipers... I know my first check is the battery voltage and then confirm the alternator is working properly. But I just drove an hour and it started just fine.
Any suggestions?
I was literally rushing to an appointment I could not miss, so since the battery light went out, I drove the half an hour to the appointment. Came back out, car started just fine, but same electrical concerns. I also noticed it seems to be idling faster than I’m used to, but I can’t guarantee that.
Since the light does not stay on, I have to assume the alternator is reporting a charge. I could see knocking out my electric power steering, but to slow down my wipers... I know my first check is the battery voltage and then confirm the alternator is working properly. But I just drove an hour and it started just fine.
Any suggestions?
Last edited by Adam Crosier; Oct 25, 2018 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Forgot a symptom
Also... I just replaced my engine myself and the power steering plug is not really clipped in. It is possible if the shock was big enough that it became unplugged. You can see the plug and barely reach it (with small arms) through the passenger wheel well.
Just something to check if things don't work themselves out.
Just something to check if things don't work themselves out.
Tried to drive the car last night. It was still happening. No PS, wipers slow, and then I turned on the headlights. Battery light. I hit the brakes and the break light came on. The ABS light. The car started sputtering.
I barely made it home from the test drive down the street. I physically checked the battery in back, everything looks good. Tight connections. No corrosion. I checked to make sure the belt was turning when it was running and all was fine
So I need to pull the battery and have it tested at the FLAPS. Any other suggestions?
I barely made it home from the test drive down the street. I physically checked the battery in back, everything looks good. Tight connections. No corrosion. I checked to make sure the belt was turning when it was running and all was fine
So I need to pull the battery and have it tested at the FLAPS. Any other suggestions?
May be worth checking that the main chassis ground is nice and snug as when it doesn't make good contact all sorts of ruckus comes up.
I recently broke a tab off the bracket,
just like this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-t-start.html
I over-torqued the bolt upon re-install after changing the cam position sensor and until I could get a new bracket I just put it back on there and dabbed a little JB Weld on the break seam, well it vibrated loose after some driving and I got all the twilight zone stuff happening, it was also at night and I was on the road working 3 hours from home.
It caused some crazy symptoms...just like what the op experienced in that thread:
I recently broke a tab off the bracket,
just like this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-t-start.html
I over-torqued the bolt upon re-install after changing the cam position sensor and until I could get a new bracket I just put it back on there and dabbed a little JB Weld on the break seam, well it vibrated loose after some driving and I got all the twilight zone stuff happening, it was also at night and I was on the road working 3 hours from home.
It caused some crazy symptoms...just like what the op experienced in that thread:
Eleo wrote:
While I intended to fix the ground cable, I obviously couldn't right then. I was hoping it was not totally critical and that the car would run fine without it.
Maybe I was wrong. Toward the end of the drive to work, ABS light came on, stereo turned off, windshield wipers became sluggish and, as I pulled into the parking lot, I lost power steering. After parking, car wouldn't start at all. I get no noise other than a growing electrical whine when I turn the key.
While I intended to fix the ground cable, I obviously couldn't right then. I was hoping it was not totally critical and that the car would run fine without it.
Maybe I was wrong. Toward the end of the drive to work, ABS light came on, stereo turned off, windshield wipers became sluggish and, as I pulled into the parking lot, I lost power steering. After parking, car wouldn't start at all. I get no noise other than a growing electrical whine when I turn the key.
With the car running test the voltage at the battery terminals with a multi meter. You should read about 14 volts while the alternator is running. While reading the voltage have someone turn on the accessories one at a time, Wipers, lights, etc. while maintaining at least 1500 rpm. you shouldn’t see more than about a 1 volt drop. Do you have any pulsating lights? If you notice dash light slightly pulsating it’s probably bad diodes in the alternator. Check all of your connections at the alternator grounds battery. Since this didn’t start until you hit the pothole it has to be related to water or the shock of hitting the pothole. Look at the alternator closely for signs of damage. If I think of anything else I’ll write. A good auto electrical shop can test your system without removing the alternator.
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