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I'm using the same water pump. There's nothing wrong with it, as it spins freely with no resistance. There wasn't so much of a banging noise, as it was mainly a burning oil/rubber smell I encountered after hitting 5500 rpm. Then that's when I noticed the supercharger wasn't as loud, and I heard what sounded like a grinding noise. I should have just taken the mini to the shop and have them do a full inspection before taking it apart. Aside from the idler pulley, nothing else was in need of replacement. I'm almost to the point of putting the radiator back on and turning the car on to check for any leaks/noises.
I'm nearly ready to start this car, but I wanted to get two of those long M10x1.25 bolts so it would make putting the radiator on a bit easier. I went to my local hardware store which usually has many different bolts. They did have the right size bolts, but didn't have any longer than 100mm. I would really like to get 150mm or longer if I could.. I heard there's a place in Everett WA that has more variety of bolts, so I'll check out that place soon. I may just have to hook up the radiator without the use of long bolts. I'll see about doing that today and if I can get it done, I'll start the car and see if there was anything I missed while putting it together... I really should get one of those Bently Service Manuals.
A couple things... 1) I should have verified the size of the bolts required for mounting the radiator. 2) I got the MINI put back mostly together and started it to get the coolant circulating, and in the process of putting things back together I must have missed a couple bolts....
Anybody know what these bolts go to? One of them has a rubber gasket, but the other one doesn't and I don't recall missing a gasket anywhere when I was taking the car apart... Maybe it's still sticking to the car somewhere?
So before I button it all up and drive it, I'm looking through videos to get a clue as to where these bolts came from.
My bad. Didn't mean the engine block. It actually attaches to the supercharger.
oh right that one definitely is on there. It's much smaller than these ones pictured above. Sorry for the lack of perspective, but I believe them to be around a size m6 or m8. The smaller one is like a m2 in comparison to these.
I am a contrarian, I know . I wager that OP's SW shake has nothing to do with the missing bolt on the carrier bearing in the above foto. I would replace ASAP but would hold my breath that it fixes the shaking SW. These 4 bolts do very little unless you CV is on the way out or the axle is grossly imbalance.
Possible causes of SW shake:
SW shake causes:
bad tire
deterioriated CV axles
drivetrain mounts - including installation of "performance" mounts that you uses of the vehicle don't need.
Those bolts hold the passenger side axle carrier bearing housing. In that state I'm surprise that all you feel is a 'slight shaking.' Fix immediately.
you have it right! I got two replacement bolts for that carrier housing and it fixed the shaking I'll keep the inner tire rods for the eventuality that they will need replacing, but there is very little if any shaking of the steering wheel anymore, at high speeds. I got the car all put back together and took it for a good half-tank test drive. I also replaced the spark plugs because although the ones in the motor were already the ngk cool running plugs that I had bought, one looked kind of burnt a bit. I'll check the plugs again when I change the oil.
I'm happy with the way it pulls and sounds now. I want to wait until I get a CAI before I decide on a tune. Would any aftermarket exhaust provide better air flow, or is the current exhaust good that a CAI alone would be more than enough for the stock fuel injectors?
I got a set of chrono pack gauges off a craigslist junk yard ad for $170 after shipping and installed them last night.
I love the look of these gauges, but there's a couple issues I have... Original mileage
The mileage of my car is 71k.
Gauge mileage
The mileage from the chrono gauges is way higher, but so far I haven't been able to find a way to change to the car's actual mileage. Also, the DSC and TPMS lights are on and unable to be turned off by the conventional means.
I also noticed a while ago that the reverse lights weren't turning on when backing up. After some research, I found out that the reverse light switch going bad is a common issue. However, I checked where the reverse light switch goes and found that the wires weren't even connected to the switch.
The connector must not have been put back after the clutch was replaced. After plugging it back in, only one reverse light works.... odd. But it's better than none of the lights working!
Oh and the speedo gauge is over 5mph off, which kind of makes the thing less than useful and quite annoying.
I also wasn't able to install the dual gauge until I removed the top steering column trim. Not super noticeable, but I will need to either modify the trim to get the gauge to fit, or get trim from another chrono car.
After several hours researching the topic and looking at the different options, I decided to get an oil catch can. I got the baffled one made by mishimoto and this is where I'm putting it.
The fittings unfortunately do not fit the same outer diameter of the PCV output. However, I'm going to look for a hose elbow piece that hopefully will help me route the oil catch can inlet/outlet hoses where it won't look too odd.
I don't much care for the rockstar logos, but I can just paint over them easily to make it not as noticeable.
. I wager that OP's SW shake has nothing to do with the missing bolt on the carrier bearing in the above foto. I would replace ASAP but would hold my breath that it fixes the shaking SW. These 4 bolts do very little unless you CV is on the way out or the axle is grossly imbalance.
I'll keep the inner tire rods for the eventuality that they will need replacing, but there is very little if any shaking of the steering wheel anymore, at high speeds. I got the car all put back together and took it for a good half-tank test drive. I also replaced the spark plugs because although the ones in the motor were already the ngk cool running plugs that I had bought, one looked kind of burnt a bit. I'll check the plugs again when I change the oil. 
