R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 R53 Maunal shifting issues

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  #1  
Old 09-13-2018, 03:43 PM
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R53 Maunal shifting issues

Context: 2004 Mini Cooper S, with the 6 speed Getrag transmission. 209k miles, clutch replaced once.

I've been poking around, and haven't found any definitive answers, so I'm going to tell the story and see if it illuminates an answer in someone's mind.

I had a worn out clutch, with all of the standard symptoms. Following Mod Mini's video, I pulled the transmission. In the process, I broke one of the pressure plate bolts ( no big deal, thought seriously underdesigned IMHO ) and one of the bolts mounting the transmission-body bracket to the transmission. I cross-threaded it previously when I was discovering that the new bracket I bought wasn't the right one. In the process of attempting to remove the broken bolt, my bolt extractor broke the boss on the side of the transmission. I took the transmission to a machine shop who removed the bolt, welded the boss back together and installed a Helicoil. The clutch kit included the clutch plate and throwout bearing. I also ordered new pressure plate and flywheel bolts, and re-installed the transmission. In the process I also removed the old transmission oil and put in "Red Line (50204) SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant" per Mod Mini's suggestion. as soon as I got it all back together, I noticed that it was difficult to shift. It's hard to get into gear sometimes, and will occasionally pop out of gear. I was concerned that perhaps I didn't put enough oil in, so I pulled the upper plug, and a bunch of oil came out. The problem persisted. I thought that perhaps the slave cylinder needed to be bled, so I did that. The slave cylinder looks to be in tact, no tears, no leaks. The problem persists.

So, my brilliant friends, what do you think the issue is? Do I need to replace the slave cylinder? Is it an issue with the transmission itself? I haven't looked since I installed it, but I'm also going to pull the airbox, and verify that the shift linkages are still firmly attached.

Thanks so much for your feedback!

Cheers,
Duane
 
  #2  
Old 09-17-2018, 11:44 AM
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Hey folks, I decided to replace the clutch slave cylinder since it's reasonably inexpensive, and easy to replace. After several bleeds of the line, it solved the issue for me.

Cheers,
Duane
 
  #3  
Old 09-17-2018, 04:27 PM
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Nice diagnosis and repair
 
  #4  
Old 09-20-2018, 03:18 PM
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I was wondering why my second clutch in the car wore out so much more quickly than the first clutch. I have a feeling the slave cylinder wasn't extending as far as it should have been, and as a result, when the clutch was in, it was slipping a little. Just a theory, but it may explain less than half the life on the second clutch.

Duane
 
  #5  
Old 11-06-2018, 03:03 PM
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Bump of my own thread.

I've replaced the master and slave cylinders, and bled multiple times. I still occasionally have issues getting the car in gear. It will be fine and then occasionally when I think it's in 3rd of fourth, it pops out. Also sometimes it's tough to get it in first or second. Does anyone have additional thoughts? It's been a frustrating couple of months for me with this issue.

Cheers,
Duane
 
  #6  
Old 11-08-2018, 05:23 AM
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Do you find it difficult to shift in and out of gears without the engine running? When is the last time you had the transmission oil changed? If it is "popping" out of gear it isn't a clutch issue it is a transmission issue. I see you are in CA, how close to the beach? that fine talcum powder type of grit gets into all your hinges, clips, swivels, and so on, it is possible your shiftier cable couplers may need to be cleaned and lubricated. Doing this should make the shiftier move much smoother through the engaging the gears.


Best of luck.

Motor On!
 
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