Hello motorers. It's been a while, although I have been lurking in the shadows.

My 2002 S just got back from the shop and already she's already making an appointment for her return. It seems as though I'll be needing a new clutch as the original one is starting to slip. I'm at 817xx. Mechanic says I can probably get another season out of the clutch if I 'baby' it.. which means I unfortunately haven't been able to enjoy my newly-installed 17% pulley that much.

With that in mind, I was looking towards some guidance on what else I should worry about -- given that the motor is pretty much coming out, I was thinking of having all of this done/installed:

- Valeo single mass kit
- Water pump
- Supercharger oil service (kit)
- P/S hose replacement (leaking)
- Chain tensioner
- Aluminum coolant housing
- Brake flush
- A/C compressor clutch
- Fuel pump?

Mods:
- 380cc (410cc technically) Bosch injectors
- ECU tune with JCW210 map

These were replaced/serviced at mileage listed:

81600 mi
- Cravenspeed 17% reduction supercharger pulley/belt
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
- Replaced oil pan gasket (OEM)
- Replaced crankshaft o-ring sensor gasket (OEM)
- Coolant flush

57360 mi
- Crankshaft pulley (OEM)

No signs of immediate concern:
- Suspension bushings
- Engine mounts

The injectors and map complete all the engine upgrades I am inclined to do. I don't want to move beyond bolt-on (cam, header, p&p) -- unless a full JCW head pops up somewhere in the semi-distant future.

I am more concerned now about a car in sound mechanical condition. Have I left anything out?

Thanks for reading through.

 

Actually, just ran across sevin's thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mod-log.html; I may have answered my own question

 

- Valeo single mass kit It's a great clutch, it's what we put all of our customer into unless they require a better clutch.

- Water pump With the car in service mode the water pump will be really easy to access, not a bad time to replace it.

- Supercharger oil service (kit) Same goes for the oil change kit as the water pump; it'll be easy to get taken care of with the front end off the car, we have the specs on our website of what to fill either side of the charger to.

- P/S hose replacement (leaking) Good idea to replace it now with the subframe out, makes the job a hell of a lot easier, but if you haven't done them yet;
I would highly recommend replacing the control arm bushings with Powerflex bushings at the same time.

- Chain tensioner Unless you're having a problem with it I don't see a need to replace it, but if you're looking for the assurance go for it.

- Aluminum coolant housing I don't recommend the aluminum housings.
They're not needed, and in my opinion an expensive fix to a problem that is very uncommon nowadays.

- Brake flush Recommended every two years on a DD, or after every 1 or 2 track days.

- A/C compressor clutch I wouldn't mess with it if it's still working.

- Fuel pump? Not a common failure, and if it's working now I'd leave it be. You can test the fuel pressure numbers, but all of the pump problems I've come across usually end up with a dead pump, not a low flowing pump.

 

nkfry, thanks for the response — appreciate the insight!

So, might as well replace the LCA bushings while we’re in there. Would it be wise in your opinion to change out the engine mounts and transmission bushings as well?

 

If they're failed yes, but if not I wouldn't spend money on components that are still in working order.

Powerflex has a transmission and lower mount insert that you can run in conjunction with the stock mounts to take up some of the slack in the bushings.

I would give your passenger side engine mount a look, as they tear the top mounting stud out of the rest of the mount and will allow excessive engine movement.