Bought this kit as well. I was able to unstick my Right Rear caliper with it.

 

Thanks so much for this tip!!! I removed the caliper yesterday, removed the pads, fully extended the piston, pulled the boot back, and brushed/cleaned all of the crud off of the piston. Then I cleaned the slides, rubber things, moved the boot, and then lubricated everything with some high temp Hawk Gearhead brake grease. Then used my Autozone rental to retract the piston and reassembled. It's working like new now!

The rotors had a huge lip from being old/heavily scored. It was not easy by any definition to get it off of the rotor. I only had a small set of channel locks at my disposal, and it took ~an hour of systematically prying the caliper edges>squeezing the pad>prying the edges again>and smacking the **** out of the caliper away from the rotor to get it off. Opening up the brake reservoir cap seemed to help, but I'm not sure if it's possible that that relieved any pressure while the car was off. In any case, thanks everyone for your help!

Sorry that I don't have any photos to show..my phone camera broke a few days ago.

 

This is for rears right?

 

Yep! Just the rear right, I'll replace the pads on all four corners this weekend when my rear rotors come in. I removed the handbrake cable from the caliper and checked that everything worked well though!

 

Just an intellectual debate on one fine point. Brake reservoirs are designed to breath so not to develop a vacuum. The brake fluid level will drop as the brake pads/shoes; clutch friction plate wear. So by opening up the cap will not make pushing the piston back any easier. Most reservoir caps has a pin size hole for breathing.

Congratulations on your progress.

 

So, normally I'd say go "rent" a c-clamp from your closest hardware store, but would that work with the pistons that rotate? I'd imagine yes as long as you take your time...

 

The C-clamp+an old brake pad worked wonderfully to retract the front calipers. However, the rental really was necessary for the rears.