Cross posted from general mini talk. Hoping some more traffic in r53 specific.

Hi guys. Skipping intro section and just jumping in. Just sold my e46 and am looking for something a little roomier in the back for the dogs. Being in Chicago, mini fits the bill perfectly. Moving from community to community is pretty difficult. Been into BMW's for about a decade and know my way around pretty well. Moving to MINI is definitely a change.

I'm looking for a buyers guide/PPI checklist. I've read the motoringfile guide but it doesn't really give any insight. Through a bunch of searching I found the list at the bottom of this post, put there to keep post more readable.

Now it's not my first rodeo checking out a car and am *somewhat* competent, but I'm looking for some more common/living-with-the-car issues. I'm assuming there's at least SOME overlap with standard BMW issues, but need some more insight.

I think I read superchargers are typically good for around 100k before they need servicing? Is that a safe timeframe?
Do Minis have any subframe issues ripping out like most bimmer's?
Do headliners/pillar covers have sagging/peeling issues?
I know expansion tank is a problem area, how about the rest of the cooling system? Does it need to be replaced every ~60k like I'm used to? What's the typical timeline for expansion tank failure?
Same goes for control arm assemblies - failure rate every ~60k or so?
Any over-engineered parts to keep an eye on like VANOS or oil separator issues?
Power steering lines tend to seep and need to be replaced?

I think that's all. Any help is appreciated!





List I found on NAM
-- Lower control arm bushings (make sure they haven't stated to dry out and crack)
-- Strut towers (check for any mushrooming)
-- Door sills (the rubber door gasket is easily pulled up from the door frames and you can check for any signs of rust under there)
-- Crankshaft seal and the crack sensor O-ring seal (mentioned in the MF article; I just replaced the O-ring on my '05)
-- Power steering pump cooling fan (make sure the bearing isn't full of debris and the fan turns freely; consider getting a cover for the fan if it doesn't already have one. Here is one source <--link )
-- Battery (see if it still has the original; if so, consider a replacement)
-- Accessory drive belt (it will occasionally throw a tooth as it ages; usually can hear an extra tapping noise if this has happened)
-- Check the maintenance records to see if the oxygen sensor has been replaced (MINI has extended the warranty on this item to 10 years/100K miles recognizing some premature failures)

 

Belt tensioner and motor mounts, especially the upper mount. I get about 40K out of.mine before they fail and replace them I tried several of the urethane after market mounts and they are too harsh for my DD.

 

So when you do the CPS just do the tensioner as well? Fair enough.
I don't think I've ever seen an engine mount that accessible.

If those are the only other things I really need to worry about then I'm stoked to be in something so easy! Thanks much!

 

Just posted up here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html

 

Thanks ECS. Was reading that yesterday before I posted. That guy did some serious work. It'd be nice to have that garage and an extra couple grand laying around. He's like the mini version of Mango, if you're one of the guys who monitors e46f.

 

Battery well: If you are going with a R53 its battery well will fill with water if one of several ingress points leaks. Instead of chasing the leak, pull the Battery, and at the center rear of the battery well (lowest point) there is a depression and "a rubber spray covered hole" Remove the rubber and water will drain out.
FCAB's: R53 has front control arm bushings, similar to E46, and they go bad, just like the E46. There is a great aftermarket poly replacement for about $86, BUT they are more of a pain to replace than an E46. You cant easily get the whole lollipop out short of dropping at least part of the sub-frame. There is a bushing tool, common in the UK, that makes the whole thing reasonably less painful. Both Ball Joints of the CA need to come off, then pull it off the Bushing, then bushing tool to remove and replace them. One tip to getting the rubber bushings off the control arm, spray it down with dish soap, work a flathead screwdriver between the CA and the bushing to let soap to cover the CA and it comes off pretty easy, same for putting a CA on a rubber bushing.

I too have a E46, also a E30, had an E85(gone), and a E93. Had to get a R53 after the E93 as it wasn't a fun, casual DD any more, great highway cruiser but not DD fun. R53 is a frickin go-cart with a supercharger. It put the fun back into my DD. Cheap, easy to mod, easy to maintain, and got another 25-35 hp out of the engine, without a tune, and still does 30 mpg combined, makes it great.

To me the sweet setup is what I have. 2005 MCS Hatch w/LSD, 6speed stick, ChronoPack Instrument Cluster, Zenons, and heated seats. The GP or Works cars are great but you cant get too much more from them cheaply.
They are not as common as the MCS, although finding an LSD might be tough if you are not willing to travel to get the car. They only came in 05-06. I found mine with BBS R90's for about $6k.

Good Luck
Bruce

 

Thanks Bruce.I actually just bought it. 2005, heated seats, LSD, sprintex charger. Needs A good once over, but for $3800 I feel like it's pretty all right.