R50/53 Clutch Issue
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Clutch Issue
Hi everyone!
(First post fyi)
So a few days ago I went to drive my 03 Mini Cooper S (R53) and noticed that my clutch pedal easily went to the floor and it was really hard to get it into gear/shift. The pedal would come back up on its own but when I went to press it, there was very little resistance.
After doing research I've come to the conclusion there is an issue either with my slave or master cylinder, or possibly the hose.
Today, I bled the slave a little to see if I could get any air bubbles out, but there were none. And there is no leak at the slave or master...
Right now I am thinking there is an issue within my master cylinder but I'm not sure
Has anyone had a similar issue or possibly know what is wrong?
I really appreciate any input! Thank you!
Also, keep in mind I am financially independent college student (no ma or pa to help pay) so I can't afford to take it to the shop to spend thousands on labor... aha
Thanks once again!
EDIT: So the issue was with my throwout bearing. After replacing the slave, master and the line, the issue was still present, so I'll be replacing the entire clutch. Thanks for all the help!!!
(First post fyi)
So a few days ago I went to drive my 03 Mini Cooper S (R53) and noticed that my clutch pedal easily went to the floor and it was really hard to get it into gear/shift. The pedal would come back up on its own but when I went to press it, there was very little resistance.
After doing research I've come to the conclusion there is an issue either with my slave or master cylinder, or possibly the hose.
Today, I bled the slave a little to see if I could get any air bubbles out, but there were none. And there is no leak at the slave or master...
Right now I am thinking there is an issue within my master cylinder but I'm not sure
Has anyone had a similar issue or possibly know what is wrong?
I really appreciate any input! Thank you!
Also, keep in mind I am financially independent college student (no ma or pa to help pay) so I can't afford to take it to the shop to spend thousands on labor... aha
Thanks once again!
EDIT: So the issue was with my throwout bearing. After replacing the slave, master and the line, the issue was still present, so I'll be replacing the entire clutch. Thanks for all the help!!!
Last edited by Teri Garcia; Jan 29, 2017 at 10:11 AM.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
It does sound like the a Slave Cylinder went bad, either that or the clutch itself.
Slave Cylinder bleeding can be very difficult, in many cases it requires a Power Bleeder and multiple tries.
See this video for how it's done:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...YRp9ngbva0xGpA
Slave Cylinder bleeding can be very difficult, in many cases it requires a Power Bleeder and multiple tries.
See this video for how it's done:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...YRp9ngbva0xGpA
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
It does sound like the a Slave Cylinder went bad, either that or the clutch itself.
Slave Cylinder bleeding can be very difficult, in many cases it requires a Power Bleeder and multiple tries.
See this video for how it's done:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...YRp9ngbva0xGpA
Slave Cylinder bleeding can be very difficult, in many cases it requires a Power Bleeder and multiple tries.
See this video for how it's done:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...YRp9ngbva0xGpA
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
How difficult would you say it is to fix those? and cost as well? I know its a pain to reach the clutch..
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
Honestly, except for clutch wear (that you should have noticed with some high gear slipping) the rest of those things really aren't very common and should also most likely have given you warning signs.
Personally I'm leaning toward it simply being the slave cylinder.
Was the fluid level low at all before you tried to bleed it? The connection from the reservoir to the slave cylinder is higher on the reservoir than the brake line connection, it doesn't take much of a level drop to introduce air into the clutch system.
Simply look at the clutch paddle/arm while someone presses down the clutch, it should have some pretty good travel, if not then it's the Master or Slave Cylinder, and most of the time, it's the Slave.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Jan 19, 2017 at 03:03 PM.
Trending Topics
I would get a slave cylinder first since you can't really know what the problem is, unless something is obviously leaking, or broken.
It's the most likely problem and if it turns out to be a clutch issue there's a good chance of your slave would need to be replaced anyway.
You also mentioned funds are limited so the slave would be the cheapest first option. You can find them on rockauto for around $30 or just google it, they aren't expensive.
Good luck and be sure to bleed it correctly.
It's the most likely problem and if it turns out to be a clutch issue there's a good chance of your slave would need to be replaced anyway.
You also mentioned funds are limited so the slave would be the cheapest first option. You can find them on rockauto for around $30 or just google it, they aren't expensive.
Good luck and be sure to bleed it correctly.
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
They're not simple fixes, but....
Honestly, except for clutch wear (that you should have noticed with some high gear slipping) the rest of those things really aren't very common and should also most likely have given you warning signs.
Personally I'm leaning toward it simply being the slave cylinder.
Was the fluid level low at all before you tried to bleed it? The connection from the reservoir to the slave cylinder is higher on the reservoir than the brake line connection, it doesn't take much of a level drop to introduce air into the clutch system.
Simply look at the clutch paddle/arm while someone presses down the clutch, it should have some pretty good travel, if not then it's the Master or Slave Cylinder, and most of the time, it's the Slave.
Honestly, except for clutch wear (that you should have noticed with some high gear slipping) the rest of those things really aren't very common and should also most likely have given you warning signs.
Personally I'm leaning toward it simply being the slave cylinder.
Was the fluid level low at all before you tried to bleed it? The connection from the reservoir to the slave cylinder is higher on the reservoir than the brake line connection, it doesn't take much of a level drop to introduce air into the clutch system.
Simply look at the clutch paddle/arm while someone presses down the clutch, it should have some pretty good travel, if not then it's the Master or Slave Cylinder, and most of the time, it's the Slave.
Thank you so much for your input!!!
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I would get a slave cylinder first since you can't really know what the problem is, unless something is obviously leaking, or broken.
It's the most likely problem and if it turns out to be a clutch issue there's a good chance of your slave would need to be replaced anyway.
You also mentioned funds are limited so the slave would be the cheapest first option. You can find them on rockauto for around $30 or just google it, they aren't expensive.
Good luck and be sure to bleed it correctly.
It's the most likely problem and if it turns out to be a clutch issue there's a good chance of your slave would need to be replaced anyway.
You also mentioned funds are limited so the slave would be the cheapest first option. You can find them on rockauto for around $30 or just google it, they aren't expensive.
Good luck and be sure to bleed it correctly.
Thank you so much
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
What do you mean by clutch the paddle/arm? And I dont remember the fluid being low.. when the pedal was depressed you can see the movement of the fluid in the reservoir, the fluid would go in the line but then rise back up (if that makes sense) all while still being depressed (so maybe it was low before i bled? and air got in?). I'm currently thinking about replacing both the master and slave, since both are the same age.
Thank you so much for your input!!!
Thank you so much for your input!!!
If you are, then it's most likely internal (clutch, throw out bearing, something like that)
If not, then it's Master or Slave Cylinder.
As an FYI, Slave Cylinders fail far more often than Master Cylinders in our cars, if for nothing else than their respective locations on the car.
Personally I'd save the money on the Master Cylinder up front, or at least be able to easily return it.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Jan 19, 2017 at 07:03 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
The arm that comes out of the transmission that the slave cylinder shaft pushes. See if you're getting much movement in the shaft.
If you are, then it's most likely internal (clutch, throw out bearing, something like that)
If not, then it's Master or Slave Cylinder.
As an FYI, Slave Cylinders fail far more often than Master Cylinders in our cars, if for nothing else than their respective locations on the car.
Personally I'd save the money on the Master Cylinder up front, or at least be able to easily return it.
If you are, then it's most likely internal (clutch, throw out bearing, something like that)
If not, then it's Master or Slave Cylinder.
As an FYI, Slave Cylinders fail far more often than Master Cylinders in our cars, if for nothing else than their respective locations on the car.
Personally I'd save the money on the Master Cylinder up front, or at least be able to easily return it.
