Check the oil cooler in the passangerside wheel well....a few have failed, leading to oil and coolant mixing...

What complicates the situation you are in, is that the coolant in the oil MIGHT be the result the overheating that caused the headgasket to fail....so you still must investgate a bit...
Overheating a couple times USUALLY causes the head gasket to fail...the block is iron alloy, the head is aluminum, and they expand and contract at different rates, and can even warp from excess heat...nextcresult is the headgasket can fail, or the head can crack...
I would still investgate the loss of coolant....I would hate to fx the headgasket, and have it overheat again a week later cause it went low on coolant cause the radiator is leaking....

A couple items for your mechanic to check:


Has the temperature sensor been replaced? If it is defective, the fan may not come on when it should.

If not the temp sensor, then it could be the radiator fan - is it working in both the low speed and high speed mode as the car gets warm?

If this is a high mileage car, without service history - perhaps someone dumped 'leak stop' product into the cooling system and clogged up the radiator. Using an infra-red thermometer along the surface of the radiator should identify any 'clogged' cold spots.

And then again, it could be air in the system although if it was bled 'correctly' - this shouldn't be an issue.

If you have a blown fuse (PS fan) neither the low OR the high will work...the car will run hotter than optimum, but with a fast cycling and very loud Hugh speed fan turning on and off...

My f5 fuse was blown, probably from the ps fan freezing like you said. I'm pretty sure my high speed fan still doesn't work. From what I've read I think it's because my ac isn't working. Ac clutch probably fried from the low speed fan not cooling it. My car was overheating while idling, because I had no low, or high speed fan. But now at least the low speed keeps it cool enough. I should have been more clear. Op did have high speed so I was going down the wrong path. Good chance his low still isn't working though.

It's annoying that everything is tied together. Keeping your engine cool is pretty damn important, sure would like the engineer to explain to me why they did that. If I was any kind of electrician it would be nice to wire it up so the fan will still works even if an unrelated part dies. Ac compressor and ps pump are easily replaced, an engine isn't.

In 2005 mini changed the wiring to separate the cooling fan from that fuse...many cars were rewired...guess they never thought that a 5 amp fuse would blow on the PS FAN, and repower a relay (basicly) that would render the engine fan inoperative....sometimes from a stray plastic bag getting stuck in the PS pump fan, (then a guard was added) and then finely from grime getting past the seals, and corroding the bearings, making the PS FAN "sticky" or even stuck, and jammed....then blowing the fuse as they age.....
As long as the AC compressor is not seized, and you can live without AC, You can leave it...it is suspected the AC compressor, more specifically, the clutch fails, due to the fact the cooling fan was not running while it was working (like normally the case if the car is not moving) and this the psi's the system were extremely high....and the stress of the extra tq burns out the clutch....just an educated guess...but the issues go hand in hand....

The low speed part of the fan not working is due to a crappy resistor on the fan that is used to regulate the speed....it can be changed (some aftermarket kits have been made), or a new fan dropped in...