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@sevin: to kill the unknown on gearing, do an RPM v speed check in 1st or 2nd gear on yours and then go do the same thing on the car in question. I would also consider adding a boost gauge to yours to verify boost level and also check the rubber hoses on yours for any leaks to verify your setup. Compression & leak down test may also tell you something.
@sevin: to kill the unknown on gearing, do an RPM v speed check in 1st or 2nd gear on yours and then go do the same thing on the car in question. I would also consider adding a boost gauge to yours to verify boost level and also check the rubber hoses on yours for any leaks to verify your setup. Compression & leak down test may also tell you something.
I don't think it'd be a good idea to go back at this point since I've been twice and have no plans to purchase the car. I'll definitely check around my hoses and see what I can find, I know that my intake boot has a crack in it. I may be able to do some compression/leakdown tests at school at school sometime.
I don't think it'd be a good idea to go back at this point since I've been twice and have no plans to purchase the car. I'll definitely check around my hoses and see what I can find, I know that my intake boot has a crack in it. I may be able to do some compression/leakdown tests at school at school sometime.
If your intake boot is cracked - I would also take a look at your intercooler couplers ... It's actually not that uncommon for them to fail and leak and cause a loss in boost
If your intake boot is cracked - I would also take a look at your intercooler couplers ... It's actually not that uncommon for them to fail and leak and cause a loss in boost
I think my couplers look good. I will take another look.
Just took the intercooler and couplers off. All looks good. I did notice a pool of oil inside the smaller coupler, the one on the right side (inlet or outlet?). The other was slick with oil but no pool.
I just drove ~25 minutes with it disconnected . The CEL came on about 20 minutes in. I thought it was a boost leak since the car felt down on power but when I opened the hood up I realized I had left this connector disconnected. The CEL hasn't gone off yet, but I've only been letting the car idle for a couple minutes in my driveway, so I'm just hoping it hasn't cycled yet.
I just drove ~25 minutes with it disconnected . The CEL came on about 20 minutes in. I thought it was a boost leak since the car felt down on power but when I opened the hood up I realized I had left this connector disconnected. The CEL hasn't gone off yet, but I've only been letting the car idle for a couple minutes in my driveway, so I'm just hoping it hasn't cycled yet.
That is your knock sensor, you will need to clear the codes and cycle the ignition and the light should go out assuming you don't have more going on.
That is your knock sensor, you will need to clear the codes and cycle the ignition and the light should go out assuming you don't have more going on.
Oh, I guess that doesn't explain why it felt down on power... isn't there a way to clear the codes using the trip reset button? I don't have something else I can use to clear codes.
Oh, I guess that doesn't explain why it felt down on power... isn't there a way to clear the codes using the trip reset button? I don't have something else I can use to clear codes.
Go to Autozone or the local parts store that does "free computer scans" and have them clear the codes.
The knock sensor is only there to monitor for pre detonation, the car probably went to limp mode because it was unable to read the sensor and adjust timing accordingly.
Oh, I guess that doesn't explain why it felt down on power... isn't there a way to clear the codes using the trip reset button? I don't have something else I can use to clear codes.
As nikfry stated - it definitely does. If the car stops getting signals from critical sensors it's going to make adjustments to protect the engine. The knock sensor is critical and since it couldn't tell if there was an issue it pulled timing and put you in limp mode
As nikfry stated - it definitely does. If the car stops getting signals from critical sensors it's going to make adjustments to protect the engine. The knock sensor is critical and since it couldn't tell if there was an issue it pulled timing and put you in limp mode
. The CEL came on about 20 minutes in. I thought it was a boost leak since the car felt down on power but when I opened the hood up I realized I had left this connector disconnected. The CEL hasn't gone off yet, but I've only been letting the car idle for a couple minutes in my driveway, so I'm just hoping it hasn't cycled yet.
