R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 So then, what typically causes cold start bogging / sputtering for the R53?

Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:39 PM
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Alrighty, gonna dive into pulling the head tomorrow. I have a new OEM head gasket, IM & EM gaskets, valve cover & plug tube gaskets on the way and a local machine shop is expecting me to drop off the head Monday morning. They deal with R53 heads on a pretty regular basis so I'm feeling pretty good about it
 
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Old Oct 3, 2015 | 05:57 AM
  #52  
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You're going to need new head bolts too.

Good luck, it's not too bad of a job, I found the special cam tool to be very helpful if you have access to one.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawnnn
You're going to need new head bolts too.

Good luck, it's not too bad of a job, I found the special cam tool to be very helpful if you have access to one.
Ah yes, forgot to mention that I have those on the way as well
 
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by silence2-38554
Alrighty, gonna dive into pulling the head tomorrow. I have a new OEM head gasket, IM & EM gaskets, valve cover & plug tube gaskets on the way and a local machine shop is expecting me to drop off the head Monday morning. They deal with R53 heads on a pretty regular basis so I'm feeling pretty good about it
If you dont mind me asking how much in parts are you at now for the head gasket install?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 10:05 AM
  #55  
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so I am starting to get something similar to this. since I opened the thread a week ago to take a look, I guess my car say I should have this too. on these colder mornings im getting up here, starting has been interesting, I didn't have this issue over the summer, or last winter. I figured it was the car figuring out the temp outside. when its 60 deg F I don't have this issue, now that its in the 40's this is when im getting it.


but mine will turn over no probs rev to about 1.5k then drop and chug at 500 for about 10 sec, then catch itself and head back to 1100 at 14.9% throttle for warm up, not sure if I throw a code during that since I already have an SES exhaust related. but the car never dies. and during the day I don't have this issue at all.


I was just planning on changing the plugs since I don't think they have ever been changed and figuring out that would help
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Alright, got the head to the machine shop today & it looks like all of the exhaust valve guides are pretty shot, so I have to replace those along with all of the valve seals. So, the turn around time and cost for the project just went up pretty substantially.

Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
If you dont mind me asking how much in parts are you at now for the head gasket install?
Not gonna lie, it's getting to be more than I'd anticipated -

Head gasket, IM gasket, EM gasket, head bolts & valve cover gasket set from WMW - 220

Mini Coolant - 24
Mobil1 0w40 - 34

Machine shop labor (resurfacing, valve grinding, valve guide & seal installation, pressure testing, etc.) 260
Valve guides & seals from Mini Mania - 170

I also noticed that the thermostat is not OEM so I'm throwing a new 53 dollar OEM thermostat at it while it's all apart.

So then, my current total in parts & machine shop labor so far is $761. Ouch.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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Sounds like you found your misfire problem at least. Wonder what killed the valves, cheap gas maybe?

And just think how much it would have cost to pay for the labor if you couldnt do it yourself. Helps me justify my Mini anyway lol.

Engine will be good for a very long time now too.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by silence2-38554
Alright, got the head to the machine shop today & it looks like all of the exhaust valve guides are pretty shot, so I have to replace those along with all of the valve seals. So, the turn around time and cost for the project just went up pretty substantially.



Not gonna lie, it's getting to be more than I'd anticipated -

Head gasket, IM gasket, EM gasket, head bolts & valve cover gasket set from WMW - 220

Mini Coolant - 24
Mobil1 0w40 - 34

Machine shop labor (resurfacing, valve grinding, valve guide & seal installation, pressure testing, etc.) 260
Valve guides & seals from Mini Mania - 170

I also noticed that the thermostat is not OEM so I'm throwing a new 53 dollar OEM thermostat at it while it's all apart.

So then, my current total in parts & machine shop labor so far is $761. Ouch.
OUCH! Hey at least it is getting taken care of and you can do some of the repairs yourself. Thanks for sharing! Reminds me of last week when I got a quote from the dealer. They said my mini needed over 5600 in parts went home with the list they gave me and ordered it ALL for 1100 hahaha
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 04:11 AM
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So then, what typically causes cold start bogging / sputtering for the R53?

So why is it that cold starts are so rough for these little motors? Mine cranks at least 6 times in the morning to fire, and that's at only 60*, I fear what's gonna happen at 30*......
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 04:46 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by goneFXcrazy
So why is it that cold starts are so rough for these little motors? Mine cranks at least 6 times in the morning to fire, and that's at only 60*, I fear what's gonna happen at 30*......
I cant speak for your car but believe it or not mine does better in the cold than in the heat. I am getting the CAM sensor replaced this week ill let you know how it helps
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 07:27 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by goneFXcrazy
So why is it that cold starts are so rough for these little motors? Mine cranks at least 6 times in the morning to fire, and that's at only 60*, I fear what's gonna happen at 30*......
I don't think it's normal to have hard starting issues when the temps are a little cooler......unless there is a problem.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
I don't think it's normal to have hard starting issues when the temps are a little cooler......unless there is a problem.
I agree 100% thats why I am replacing the sensor that is known to cause this issue
 
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 05:42 AM
  #63  
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Well, mine starts fine now, but like to fall flat on its face if i am pulling into the road and am aggressive for the first time on the gas. I have to be slow and smooth with the gas pedal for the first time, then its all good.

is this related?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 05:49 AM
  #64  
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-starting.html

I never noticed this before. There's a sticky thread in the r53 stock section on this.

First post is from 2005!
 
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 08:29 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Shawnnn
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-starting.html

I never noticed this before. There's a sticky thread in the r53 stock section on this.

First post is from 2005!
WOW this is interesting theres so many pages too. What was the final input on it??
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #66  
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The OEM valve guides had reliability problems. I don't remember if this was ever fixed in later models.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 07:05 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by batrugger
The OEM valve guides had reliability problems. I don't remember if this was ever fixed in later models.
Im sorry but I am not so sure what that means?? lol
 
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:08 PM
  #68  
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Stumbling Start

Believe it or not, try just changing the gas you use. Also summer to winter gas formulation can have a big effect on start-up issues.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 08:36 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Blugoose
Believe it or not, try just changing the gas you use. Also summer to winter gas formulation can have a big effect on start-up issues.
Like a different brand or what? Also what about a fuel additive?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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Here in flyover country I had been using a non-ethanol hi-test gasoline throughout the year.In the fall the stumbling would stop and come spring would pick right up again so I switched to a different brands hi-test containing 10% ethanol. The stumbling stopped immediately. In the spring it was back to the non-ethanol hi-test and have been doing that ever since. Go figure.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Blugoose
Here in flyover country I had been using a non-ethanol hi-test gasoline throughout the year.In the fall the stumbling would stop and come spring would pick right up again so I switched to a different brands hi-test containing 10% ethanol. The stumbling stopped immediately. In the spring it was back to the non-ethanol hi-test and have been doing that ever since. Go figure.
Interesting Ill have to experiment around a little.

I just got the same issue this afternoon wouldnt start at all. Turned it over a second time and it fire right up, engine ight is back on again. FML

This car is really pissing me off
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 04:31 AM
  #72  
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Mine is the opposite, runs like crap on ethanol gas...

smooth and purrs on normal 100% gas, and my stumble has been gone for a while.

20deg this morning, and started fast and with no issues
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 07:41 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by shipjumper
Mine is the opposite, runs like crap on ethanol gas...

smooth and purrs on normal 100% gas, and my stumble has been gone for a while.

20deg this morning, and started fast and with no issues
Did you do anything different to "fix" it or just let it fix itself?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #74  
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got my precat o2 sensor replaced, thats all
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 12:16 PM
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I also started today with 28deg F with no issues, I was wondering if I was between adaptations for temp, 60 deg days and 30 deg nights
 
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