R50/53 What's the natural order of upgrading mechaniccal MODS?
What's the natural order of upgrading mechaniccal MODS?
I have suspension, new wheels/tires, clutch installation, exhaust, pulley and short shifter installation work needing to be installed. What's the natural order of installation?
I have:
Clutch flywheel and replacement
Radiator and condenser Cooling Fan
Borla Aggressive Exhaust
Craven Speed Short Shifter
New Rims Neuspeed RSE05's and new Tires to be fitted
New Koni Yellow Shocks and springs
Braided Brake Lines and brake fluid change
Coolant Change
Full 76,000mile service
Should I get the suspension and wheels changed, balanced and aligned first then the rest of the work but wouldn't the wheels have to come off for the braided brake lines to go in or can they be done with wheels on and on the hoist?
Should I have all the mechanical work done and have the Rims/Tires, balancing and alignment done last? What order should I do all the work so time and money are saved?
I have:
Clutch flywheel and replacement
Radiator and condenser Cooling Fan
Borla Aggressive Exhaust
Craven Speed Short Shifter
New Rims Neuspeed RSE05's and new Tires to be fitted
New Koni Yellow Shocks and springs
Braided Brake Lines and brake fluid change
Coolant Change
Full 76,000mile service
Should I get the suspension and wheels changed, balanced and aligned first then the rest of the work but wouldn't the wheels have to come off for the braided brake lines to go in or can they be done with wheels on and on the hoist?
Should I have all the mechanical work done and have the Rims/Tires, balancing and alignment done last? What order should I do all the work so time and money are saved?
Most likely you will have to pay for time on each item, if you are lucky you might get a discount on some of the work that overlaps. But here's the natural grouping:
1. radiator + fan + coolant flush + 76k service
2. Suspension and brake lines same time. Then wheels and alignment immediately after suspension.
3. Clutch + shifter
4. exhaust
not knowing the state of your car that is not necessarily the order I would go in. if the coolant is over 3-4 years old, radiator leaking, fan not working, do those first. plus the 76k service might turn up other items needing attention not currently on your list.
1. radiator + fan + coolant flush + 76k service
2. Suspension and brake lines same time. Then wheels and alignment immediately after suspension.
3. Clutch + shifter
4. exhaust
not knowing the state of your car that is not necessarily the order I would go in. if the coolant is over 3-4 years old, radiator leaking, fan not working, do those first. plus the 76k service might turn up other items needing attention not currently on your list.
I have suspension, new wheels/tires, clutch installation, exhaust, pulley and short shifter installation work needing to be installed. What's the natural order of installation?
I have:
Clutch flywheel and replacement (5)
Radiator and condenser Cooling Fan (3)
Borla Aggressive Exhaust (4)
Craven Speed Short Shifter (5)
New Rims Neuspeed RSE05's and new Tires to be fitted (2)
New Koni Yellow Shocks and springs (2)
Braided Brake Lines and brake fluid change (2)
Coolant Change (1)
Full 76,000mile service (1)
Should I get the suspension and wheels changed, balanced and aligned first then the rest of the work but wouldn't the wheels have to come off for the braided brake lines to go in or can they be done with wheels on and on the hoist?
Should I have all the mechanical work done and have the Rims/Tires, balancing and alignment done last? What order should I do all the work so time and money are saved?
I have:
Clutch flywheel and replacement (5)
Radiator and condenser Cooling Fan (3)
Borla Aggressive Exhaust (4)
Craven Speed Short Shifter (5)
New Rims Neuspeed RSE05's and new Tires to be fitted (2)
New Koni Yellow Shocks and springs (2)
Braided Brake Lines and brake fluid change (2)
Coolant Change (1)
Full 76,000mile service (1)
Should I get the suspension and wheels changed, balanced and aligned first then the rest of the work but wouldn't the wheels have to come off for the braided brake lines to go in or can they be done with wheels on and on the hoist?
Should I have all the mechanical work done and have the Rims/Tires, balancing and alignment done last? What order should I do all the work so time and money are saved?
Clutch flywheel and replacement (4)
Radiator and condenser Cooling Fan (1)
Borla Aggressive Exhaust (3)
Craven Speed Short Shifter (5)
New Rims Neuspeed RSE05's and new Tires to be fitted (2)
New Koni Yellow Shocks and springs (2) - Once you let the suspension settle with the new shocks and springs, get an alignment.
Braided Brake Lines and brake fluid change (2)
Coolant Change (1)
Full 76,000mile service (1)
If you need help with any of the install stuff make sure to check out our tech articles here. Good luck!
-Luccia
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

Do you have an alternate vehicle? If so, when you do the clutch, essentially do it all since you'll be in there anyway - but it'll take some time (hence the "loaner").
When you open up the front end you'll be emptying the radiator, so when you do the clutch, do the 76,000, rad, fan and coolant. While you're in that far, and if you have >75kmiles on it, strongly consider changing your supercharger oil (not difficult but it's precision work), do the thermostat using the "new style" silicone gasket, and at least replace the alternator brushes if not replacing the whole alternator (easy once you have the front end off).
Shocks/springs/brakes/wheels are essentially another job, do those together then align. BTW, alignment is super easy with hub alignment jigs or even 2 parallel strings next to the car, adjust to parallel rear toe (adjust using trailing arm mounting bolts) and about 1/32-1/16" front toe IN (for the street). If you have camber adjustment, go about -1.5 to -2deg camber on the DRIVER's side (you may be limited by the body's reinforcing rib), get it as far as it'll go up to -2deg for the street), then adjust PS to match. Be sure someone similar to your weight is sitting in the driver's seat at the time! Note that anything more than about 2 degrees negative camber will result in inner tire "camber wear" on the street. Note also that IE adjustable camber plates are a maintenance item - need greasing regularly, AND you'll want to put a LARGE grade 8 reinforcing washer on the top of your spring plate to avoid spring plate mushrooming. Otherwise, use OE strut bearings or Loemfoerder - do NOT use Monroe strut bearings, multiple instances of them failing within 1000 miles of installation.
Exhaust and short shifter go together, since the short shifter is an easier install w/o the exhaust in place, but you can jimmy the heatshield off from above an already-installed exhaust if you need to.
When you open up the front end you'll be emptying the radiator, so when you do the clutch, do the 76,000, rad, fan and coolant. While you're in that far, and if you have >75kmiles on it, strongly consider changing your supercharger oil (not difficult but it's precision work), do the thermostat using the "new style" silicone gasket, and at least replace the alternator brushes if not replacing the whole alternator (easy once you have the front end off).
Shocks/springs/brakes/wheels are essentially another job, do those together then align. BTW, alignment is super easy with hub alignment jigs or even 2 parallel strings next to the car, adjust to parallel rear toe (adjust using trailing arm mounting bolts) and about 1/32-1/16" front toe IN (for the street). If you have camber adjustment, go about -1.5 to -2deg camber on the DRIVER's side (you may be limited by the body's reinforcing rib), get it as far as it'll go up to -2deg for the street), then adjust PS to match. Be sure someone similar to your weight is sitting in the driver's seat at the time! Note that anything more than about 2 degrees negative camber will result in inner tire "camber wear" on the street. Note also that IE adjustable camber plates are a maintenance item - need greasing regularly, AND you'll want to put a LARGE grade 8 reinforcing washer on the top of your spring plate to avoid spring plate mushrooming. Otherwise, use OE strut bearings or Loemfoerder - do NOT use Monroe strut bearings, multiple instances of them failing within 1000 miles of installation.
Exhaust and short shifter go together, since the short shifter is an easier install w/o the exhaust in place, but you can jimmy the heatshield off from above an already-installed exhaust if you need to.
Last edited by DixonL2; Jun 11, 2015 at 11:54 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
34
Jul 16, 2020 12:54 PM
Drivetrain RaceChip Ultimate install + review for b46
F55MidnightBlackCooperS
Drivetrain (Cooper S)
75
Jul 6, 2016 03:13 PM
PelicanParts.com
Vendor Announcements
0
Aug 4, 2015 02:45 PM



