R50/53 Clutch hydraulics trouble
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 2
Clutch hydraulics trouble
I've got a customers car with me at the moment which came in with a clutch pedal which does not work properly. I only deal with MINIS so I know the clutch can be awkward to bleed. This time nothing I'm doing is working. I can get the pedal feel to be about 50% good but that is about as good as I can achieve.
I've fitted a new slave and changed the master for a S/H one I had on the shelf.
I know sometimes the clutch fork can snap and I'm worried that's what I'm looking at here.
But before I go ahead and strip it down to look at the clutch fork, is there any other possibility? It seems a bit wet around the bottom of the brake master cylinder where it is bolted to the servo.
I've fitted a new slave and changed the master for a S/H one I had on the shelf.
I know sometimes the clutch fork can snap and I'm worried that's what I'm looking at here.
But before I go ahead and strip it down to look at the clutch fork, is there any other possibility? It seems a bit wet around the bottom of the brake master cylinder where it is bolted to the servo.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 17
From: Under your car
99% of the time it's hydraulic, not mechanical. If you've loosened the master to tilt it and bleed, you may have popped off the feed line into it and that's why it's wet. Keep working on it, you'll get it.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 2
Looks like I was right. But I have seen it before. It's just annoying to have to remove the whole transmission to fix something like this.
In the old days it used to be slave cylinders which would fail inside the bell housing so you'd have to remove the gearbox. They fixed that by mounting the slave externally but now the linkage breaks inside the bell housing... so we're no further forward! Keeps me in business I suppose!
In the old days it used to be slave cylinders which would fail inside the bell housing so you'd have to remove the gearbox. They fixed that by mounting the slave externally but now the linkage breaks inside the bell housing... so we're no further forward! Keeps me in business I suppose!
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 667
Likes: 31
From: West Seattle
I see your clutch fork is cracked. DO NOT try to pound out the pin holding the arm to the fork. It is soft metal and will just expand as you pound on it. Pounding on the pin will transfer the energy to the bell housing and will crack and break it where the fork pivots, especially at the bottom, inside of the bell housing. This is what happened to my wife's R50 and much of her bellhousing is now being held together with JB Weld.
Get the Sawzall out and cut the fork shaft, then remove the pin (probably best to do so by drilling it out. You'll probably wreck the nylon/plastic bushings so get a new set of those along with the fork. You will be able to reuse the arm.
Search on YouTube for "Mod-Mini" and you will be able to see Kurt working on my wife's clutch.
Val
Get the Sawzall out and cut the fork shaft, then remove the pin (probably best to do so by drilling it out. You'll probably wreck the nylon/plastic bushings so get a new set of those along with the fork. You will be able to reuse the arm.
Search on YouTube for "Mod-Mini" and you will be able to see Kurt working on my wife's clutch.
Val
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