R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Passenger CV boot axel issue

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Old May 14, 2015 | 07:14 PM
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Passenger CV boot axel issue

Took a pretty stiff turn and hit a good bump... passenger right cv boot axel snapped and sent the car grinding and skidding all over the place.

Had it towed since it was late at night

Mechanic said they can rebuild the broken one for 275 + install labor

Is this a common issue with these 1st gens? suspension upgrades maybe in the future
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 07:31 PM
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It happens, not super common thing. You can pick up a new replacement unit with new boots and all for 100 ish, on rock auto i think. Then just pay some one for labor or if your good with tools do it yourself. After taxes and shop labor you are prob gonna be in the 500 dollar range or more with your mechanic.
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 05:05 AM
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Cheap aftermarket axles often crap out quickly.
Might want to stick with oem or one of the better replacements (driveshaftshop).
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 03:37 PM
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update

Picked up the r50 from mechanic shop today and they put in new replacement passenger CV axel .
Looks good.

Passenger area now has bad vibration when decelerating and braking it gets even worse ... happens when in gear and when not ..

Same Mechanic say it's the lower ball joint.... did this guy just not do something right or did I bust some other stuff up along with CVT .

What bolts should I investigate to being loose etc .... possible bent control arm?
 

Last edited by dscott90000; May 18, 2015 at 10:06 PM.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:06 PM
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Update
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 01:06 AM
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So I have not gotten the wheel off yet but there is definitely allot of play in the wheel front to back .
There is also a bad wobble like stated previously.

Would it be easier to swap an entire control arm with ball joints already attached than to buy ball joints and change out ?
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 06:55 AM
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wheel play is bad LCA bushing
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 07:10 AM
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How easy is a swap without a lift? Should I go poly or stick OEM? Anything else I mine as well do while I'm in there ?
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 08:46 AM
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OEM is the best option unless you're wanting something more aggressive. Take a look here under suspension. Might find a tech article that can be of some assistance with the repair.

-Luccia
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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I did my brother's mini LCA last weekend. We had the subframe out already. we were doing whole bunch of work (new clutch, 15% pulley, main crank pulley, oil pan gasket and so on) It took us a couple of hours to replace the bushings. we rented the ball-joint tools from advance auto. (Powerbuilt Tools Ball Joint Service Kit (10 Piece)). It fits perfectly. you will need at a minimum access to a bench vise-grip and an impact wrench. check pelican website on how to remove subframe. While in there, if you have the subframe out. ball-joints, front sway bar bushing, steering rack bushing.
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 01:03 PM
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Don't go OEM with the LCA bushing - go with Powerflex - lasts way longer, holds
the suspension firmer, and no noticeable increase in NVH.
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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Im getting a popping type sound and feel from the front right wheel ..

Also allot of viberation from front right when Down shifting and breaking! Wobble shake and popping sounds.

I inspected and everything looks to be in order and tight ..
 
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