R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Stock Suspension: When is enough, enough?

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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 08:44 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
I ordered my PowerFlex bushings from Way Motor Works...but I got my ball joints from rockauto.com......they are around half the cost.
Sweet! I am taking notes of what everyone says and getting prices together this weekend! Thanks! Keep them all coming if anyone else has some suggestions. Powerflex are the way to go from what I have been reading nonstop just like the Koni FSDs there is quite the following.

Any rear sway suggestions? or are they all the same?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 10:18 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Steffen.Johnson
Sweet! I am taking notes of what everyone says and getting prices together this weekend! Thanks! Keep them all coming if anyone else has some suggestions. Powerflex are the way to go from what I have been reading nonstop just like the Koni FSDs there is quite the following.

Any rear sway suggestions? or are they all the same?
What are you wanting a rear sway bar for? Are you planning on racing/tracking your car...or do you just want one to have one? Depending on what you want out of it...that will determine what type/size you go with. I have the factory "S" swaybar....so I don't have any experience with aftermarket ones.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
What are you wanting a rear sway bar for? Are you planning on racing/tracking your car...or do you just want one to have one? Depending on what you want out of it...that will determine what type/size you go with. I have the factory "S" swaybar....so I don't have any experience with aftermarket ones.
I was told that the Rear Sway Bar is the "best band for buck" mod for the r53, and that it "transforms the handling". My car is a DD and will always be, will never hit the track or race though. I was told to get a aftermarket 19-22 RSB does that sound right??
 
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 10:31 PM
  #29  
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I've got a 22mm on full soft, and it just feels better. Many suggest a 19mm in case you do camber plates up front. Somewhere there's a %age stiffness chart for the two, but can't remember where.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2015 | 08:27 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
I've got a 22mm on full soft, and it just feels better. Many suggest a 19mm in case you do camber plates up front. Somewhere there's a %age stiffness chart for the two, but can't remember where.
Yeah I was always told Koni FSDs with a 22mm is the ideal setup. Thats what I am going to go with!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 11:30 AM
  #31  
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Great info in this thread. I'm taking diligent notes. Anything I should keep in mind when thinking about my R50 vs the info here for a R53? I've got about 105k miles on it, and I believe everything suspension wise is original stock.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 01:51 PM
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Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mattymini
Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
I am in the same boat as you it seems let me know what you figure out! Also message ECS or Way and they will help you figure out exactly what you need.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mattymini
Did the "kick the front tires" test - man both of them had quite a bit of movement in them. I guess that was to be expected in a R50 with 105k+ miles on it used as a daily driver. I assume that means that at least the LCA bushings are shot, but does that also mean that the ball joints are also shot. If replacing the former, should I just go ahead and replace the latter (along with sway bar bushings)? I'm also likely in need of some struts, Koni FSDs the way to go it looks like. Right there I'm up to about $1k, before any special tools and potential labor....and I may need some brake stuff as well here soon. Inspection next month will also tell me a few things.
Kicking the front wheel normally shows you worn out control arm bushings, with 105k if they were never replaced they are for sure worn out. You really want to replace them with the Powerflex front control arm bushings. We do the sway bar bushings at the same time as you are already there.
As for the ball joints they usually pop or make noise when worn out. We do have people often replace them at the same time as the control arm bushings because the subframe is already loose.
And with the Koni FSDs on sale and they great quality and ride they are a great replacement too.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:04 AM
  #35  
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Way - thanks for all the advice! I'm actually planning a road trip to your area this Spring/Summer, hope to make an order for pickup and to see the shop in person.

I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.

Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.

If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:12 AM
  #36  
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Way - also, I see you have a bushing and ball joint kit. Do you also have a kit (for an R50 which I don't think has any sport suspension, but I'll verify that - any easy way to check) - do you also have a kit that includes the sway bar bushings? Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 07:31 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mattymini
Way - thanks for all the advice! I'm actually planning a road trip to your area this Spring/Summer, hope to make an order for pickup and to see the shop in person.

I have my inspection due next month, and will have my shop look at each of those pieces. I'm not hearing any popping, so the ball joints might be ok, but with the subframe already loose or removed I might want to do those as well (looks like an extra ~200 in parts, but might save me more than that in labor if they need to be done on their own later). Also agree on the sway bar bushings while I'm there.

Maybe a dumb question - but aside from a rougher ride, what's the harm of having worm LCA bushings and/or ball joints? I understand that worn struts could be a safety issue, and themselves lead to a much rougher ride - but I'm not sure about the other.

If I also need brake stuff (will that that stuff examined at inspection) I might be over 1,500 in parts alone on a car which honestly is only worth $5k at most - with the original clutch/transmission, original O2 sensors, original power steering pump, original water pump, original A/C.....like the thread title said, "when is enough, enough"?
I agree with alot of what you are saying but just take it a little at a time as I am save up and improve what is broken, dont fix it unless it needs fixing. There are people on here with 350k+ on there MINI because they took well care of them. Hang in there we will figure all this out together, we are in the EXACT same boat!
 
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