sometimes, sh*t just goes wrong. if i had to guess they replaced the coilpack and not the leads.

 

Really? I feel that's where my power loss is too! And my chain makes a little noise at start up but goes away pretty quickly. No noise while running. Maybe it's worth a try. I also have experience starts where the car does not rev up very high at all... That I'm told is an air leak issue. Wanting to do BPV and chain tensioner. Not sure where to look for vac leak of no codes are showing.

 

I'm back with the same issue; it appears the spark plug wires did not correct the problem. The issue progressively returned after a week of running strong. The stuttering initially resumed in the lower RPM (1k) range and gradually expanded across the 1k-3k range, in all gears as the month went on. Strange.

Anyway, I decided to test the Beru coil pack with an ohmmeter as illustrated in the link below and gathered the following results:

Primary coils at 200 ohms:
pins 1&2 = 2.2
pins 2&3 = 2.3

Secondary coils at 20k ohms:
electrodes 1&4 = 13.24
electrodes 2&3 = 13.23

The problem is that I could not find the specs anywhere on line for this particular coil pack, or the OEM coils for that matter. Does anybody have the specs? Any mechanics or venders out there?

 

Sorry to hear that your problem has come back and is worse.

I replaced my whole lot just because I was going colder anyways and couldnt be bothered.

Hope someone chimes in the values for you.

 

I'm baffled. So I just picked up a 2011 MCS manual Sept 10th and 11 days after it went in the shop because of hesitation between 2-3 rpms and gas mileage went down too. Dealership replaced the thermostat and coolant. Just this morning the issue came back. Fudge!!! Spark plugs, valve cover gasket, fuel injectors were replaced. Don't even know where to start... Need guidance :-(

I will start by replacing the timing chain tensioner. Is this hard to do?

 

Hello all, I'm back with an update after replacing a 2 year old Beru coil pack with an OEM pack. This time, I drove my car for a week with the new part before prematurely posting the results. It appears that the coil pack was the culprit, not the wires (I should have listened to WMW and Helix recommendations from the beginning.)

Before installing the OEM coil pack, I tested the primary and secondary coils with the ohmmeter and found that the OEM results were all exactly 1 ohm less than that of the Beru pack. Again, I don't know how this effects the performance. I also noticed that the primary pins for the Beru ignition coil were flexible and obviously made from a different, and I assume an inferior metal composite. I don't want to discredit Beru replacement parts, because the coil pack did work fine prior to the installation of the 17% pulley and the cooler spark plugs; however, If you're going to make these upgrades, you might find the need for an OEM ignition coil, or possibly a so-called performance coil pack such as the MDS or Screaming Demon.

For those of you who are reading this thread

 

I've had this issue for a little bit and will be doing the same. It's been nearly 30k miles since a spark plug change, but the wires and coil pack I don't see anywhere that they've been replaced in my service records (I'm the 3rd owner). Doesn't help that I don't have all the service records from the previous owners.

I'll order up oem coil pack, upgraded wires and most likely NGK plugs and I'll report back soon!

 

An update for those who have been following this thread. Approximately a month after installing the Original Mini coil pack, I began experiencing the loss in power within the lower RPM range again. Just recently, I began having problems getting my car into gear (yes, it's the manual 6) so I took into the shop. My mechanic got back to me today and confirmed that I'm in need of a clutch assembly and flywheel. I'm now hoping that the loss in power was due to slipping of the clutch. I'll try to report, after some time has gone by, with the results.

 

This is exactly what happened to my mini after not even a month of owning it. They replaced the clutch and flywheel and now so far so good!

I thought it was the engine or transmission at first.

 

Out of curiosity, and if you don't mind me asking, what did that clutch job cost you? I try and do all the work I can on my MINI, but a clutch job is likely to be out of my scope.

 

Every time I've ever had a car that had a slipping clutch.....there was no wondering about it at all. You could smell brunt clutch like crazy, and the engine would rev up and the car would not accelerate at all. When a clutch goes, it goes quick. I would think that if it really was a clutch issue....you would know right away.

Any update on this?

 

As an update on mine, I replaced the OEM NGK Spark plugs and upgraded to Kingsborne Wires, solved all hesitation issues while accelerating. I also cleaned off the original Coil Pack terminals, #3 was pretty bad as others have mentioned.

I knew it wasn't my clutch/flywheel since I had those replaced back in June

 

It was $1500 but the extended warranty paid for it.

 

This is my 4th car with a stick and the previous 3 I never had to replace the clutch. Never really had a clutch go out on me and wasn't sure what the symptoms would be. After not even a month I guess the clutch was going bad. Revving high, car barely moving and I could smell burnt clutch. I started to wonder if there was a certain way to drive the mini.

 

I feel like I beat this thread to death with false hope of curing the hesitation problem, however, after almost a year and a half I've finally found the culprit. With 50,000 miles clocked on the product, I decided it was time to clean my K&N air filter. Yeah, the simplest of problems went overlooked all this time. I considered the air filter in the beginning, but dismissed it because K&N claims that their filters do not need to be cleaned until 50k miles of use. I had only reach approximately 35k when the problem began. Hope this helps somebody...

Good thing about the K&N cleaning kit, there is enough cleaner and oil to last several cleanings.

 

Dude ok so I floor it and it does well until I get above 4rpm and it begins to stutter once or twice as I'm accelerating