R50/53 2006 r53 saw the Dealer yesterday to have a few things done and now I'm lost.
#1
2006 r53 saw the Dealer yesterday to have a few things done and now I'm lost.
Good Morning all. I dropped of my 2006 MCS r53 off at the MINI dealer here in Kansas yesterday morning to have a few things done, and since then I have been scratching my head..I dropped her off to have a oil change, tire rotation, and have them install a Alta Ignition and SC Pulley kit. I am sure you all know what is included in the kit its the 17% pulley, Tensioner, MSD coilpack, New Wires, Plugs, and Pulley Belt. As I was walking out I asked him if they could change the supercharger oil. Not only did they say the oil shouldn't be changed he said they don't do it for legal reasons. Secondly he said not to install the tensioner because it is more flimsy than the stock one, and not to install the MSD coil pack or the new plug wires and keep all stock. I am just trying to see if any of you have heard about this and if so why the supercharger oil, coil pack, wires, and tensioner all shouldn't be installed. Thanks in advance, I appreciate all the help and advice on this forum!
#2
Dealers generally don't like installing aftermarket parts.....or any part you carry in...let's face it...they loose the markup on the part, so they loose $$$.
As for what they will not do...its up to them...
Checking the sc oil is an iffy $$$ unless diy'ed....about 5 hrs labor...eek at $200 an hour (typical dealer $$ plus gaskets, about $100, plus dealer markup, so another $200).... So spending $1000+ to check a $800 part (typical non dealer price) is a questionable choice...so maybe THAT was his "LEGAL REASON" for not doing it...
Everybody has opinions on what parts are good or bad.....most tuners will tell you stock wires and coil are best (I don't have either)...but both are about 5 minute jobs a dealer will likely charge about an hour each to do....
And IMO the Alta tensioner (non adjustable one/manually adjustable one) is junk.....as a driver you must manually adjust the tensioner on a regular basis to make it work right...the stock one can be bought for UNDER $100 on amazon, so using it is not even a $$ saver....
If it is a "stop" there is no OEM one....
As for what they will not do...its up to them...
Checking the sc oil is an iffy $$$ unless diy'ed....about 5 hrs labor...eek at $200 an hour (typical dealer $$ plus gaskets, about $100, plus dealer markup, so another $200).... So spending $1000+ to check a $800 part (typical non dealer price) is a questionable choice...so maybe THAT was his "LEGAL REASON" for not doing it...
Everybody has opinions on what parts are good or bad.....most tuners will tell you stock wires and coil are best (I don't have either)...but both are about 5 minute jobs a dealer will likely charge about an hour each to do....
And IMO the Alta tensioner (non adjustable one/manually adjustable one) is junk.....as a driver you must manually adjust the tensioner on a regular basis to make it work right...the stock one can be bought for UNDER $100 on amazon, so using it is not even a $$ saver....
If it is a "stop" there is no OEM one....
Last edited by ZippyNH; 12-28-2014 at 07:56 AM.
#3
I can see the dealer not wanting to install aftermarket parts. If something goes wrong, you go back to them. They don't want to deal with it. I would agree with him on the OEM coil pack and wires. As Zippy said, 'checking the oil' in the SC isn't done. You service it or you don't. Big $$ for service, as it's really tucked away in there.
#4
Yeah I can see what you mean I just always see on here people talking about changing there SC oil so I didn't realize it was such an expensive fix. As far as the coil pack and wires go I decided to just run the stock unless I have problems. (ill keep the MSD on hand). But the tensioner from Alta is that a needed part or just a part that can be more of a problem than a solution? I should inform you my mini has 124000 miles on it is any of this stuff an issue for a strong running high mileage car?
Last edited by Steffen.Johnson; 12-28-2014 at 08:29 AM.
#5
This is why you stay away from the dealers, not sure if you have a tensioner or a tensioner stop, but the stop is a good idea. Plug wires certainly won't hurt to replace, some say the coil pack might, but I'm sure you'll be fine. As for the supercharger oil, if your gonna have a dealer do it you might as well just keep a remanufactured charger on the shelf.
#6
The tensioner stop is a double edged sword...a few different versions...
The idea is you spend about $40 so if the belt fails, it might save you from having $500+ in damage...they sometimes work..sometimes don't...some are known for making a buzz or rattle sound...the older style "cable" ones tend to be quiet, but can fail from wear, and sometimes work...the newer solid metal ones are known more for sound (buzzing) but MIGHT be more reliable...
Belt...if you are not a track junkie, the right length belt is used and it is aligned (installed right), will have a long life...I suggest yearly changes with a 17% belt, every other year with a 15%..its only a $22-25 part that can be done in 15 minutes in the driveway....
Yeah...if the dealer did all you asked for, it would have been a $2000+ bill.....maybe even $3000!!!
Always ask...and while dealers are pretty good at some stuff, a local mini centric shop is usually a better deal on a 10 year old car...let's face it, at $100 an hour, savings add up fast.
The idea is you spend about $40 so if the belt fails, it might save you from having $500+ in damage...they sometimes work..sometimes don't...some are known for making a buzz or rattle sound...the older style "cable" ones tend to be quiet, but can fail from wear, and sometimes work...the newer solid metal ones are known more for sound (buzzing) but MIGHT be more reliable...
Belt...if you are not a track junkie, the right length belt is used and it is aligned (installed right), will have a long life...I suggest yearly changes with a 17% belt, every other year with a 15%..its only a $22-25 part that can be done in 15 minutes in the driveway....
Yeah...if the dealer did all you asked for, it would have been a $2000+ bill.....maybe even $3000!!!
Always ask...and while dealers are pretty good at some stuff, a local mini centric shop is usually a better deal on a 10 year old car...let's face it, at $100 an hour, savings add up fast.
Last edited by ZippyNH; 12-28-2014 at 09:35 AM.
#7
Thanks for your help guys. Well the oil change was 75, the rotation, 25 and he quoted about 375 for the kit install. So I am only looking at like 550 after taxes. They also gave me a paceman to use for the weekend so I am happy with the pricing and the service. As far as the tensioner vs stop it is a ALTA Tensioner Stop that he reccomened not installing because of rattling and it being too flimsy. I want to install the MSD coil pack and wires myself tmrw after I pick it up but I have heard way to much negitive stuff about the coil pack so I am hesitant. Also I am beginning to get worried that the 17% pulley is going to wreck the life of my near perfect running 124,000 mile car. Am I just being paranoid?
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#8
#9
17% pulley is fine for MOST drivers...keep using premium fuel!!
Only folks that should (IMO) stay away from the 17% are track folks that stay at redline for a prolonged time...the 17% on the street for a daily driver IMO is best.
Only other thing that is usually done with the pulley is to change the sparkplugs to the same spec as the "JCW" package cars, which are the same as the S, BUT ONE STEP COOLER...this help to prevent ping from extra heat on hot days...than just change them every 30,000-60,000 miles as opposed to 100,000 like on an s....
Relilbilty comes down to how you treat the car...
My mini is 10+ years now since I bought it new...very reliable...
Some folks not so lucky...but those folks tend to burn up brake pads and cluches, so driving style has lots to do with it!!
Only folks that should (IMO) stay away from the 17% are track folks that stay at redline for a prolonged time...the 17% on the street for a daily driver IMO is best.
Only other thing that is usually done with the pulley is to change the sparkplugs to the same spec as the "JCW" package cars, which are the same as the S, BUT ONE STEP COOLER...this help to prevent ping from extra heat on hot days...than just change them every 30,000-60,000 miles as opposed to 100,000 like on an s....
Relilbilty comes down to how you treat the car...
My mini is 10+ years now since I bought it new...very reliable...
Some folks not so lucky...but those folks tend to burn up brake pads and cluches, so driving style has lots to do with it!!
#12
Thanks all! I just picked my baby up this afternoon and drove her home 2 hours or so and WOW! I am in love all over again that 17% pulley is awesome. With that being said I also wanted to let you all know the update on what we did. I got a oil change and they said the previous owner changed the oil with a non MINI filter with no o ring and it was leaking slightly so we fixed that. Did a tire rotation, and then installed the 17% pulley, new belt, and new plugs all for 588.00 thought this was a really good price as I couldnt do it myself. Secondly I opted out of the tensioner stop install because many people said it had the rattling and reverse effect anyways. Ill just keep an eye on the belt and change it often, lastly I didnt install the new plugs or coil pack but kind of want to now. What issues were the msd coil packs having?
#13
http://kansascityautosport.com/. These folks are just down the street from the dealer. Have heard good words about them. Might want to give them a call. Good luck.
#19
True, so I take it you aren't one of the people who is totally against the MSD cool pack in the r53? So many people talk bad about it but I can't find any hard evidence to back this rumor up..
#20
#21
MSD Coil Packs
Unless one bothers to take the time to re-gap the spark plugs when using the MSD packs, you may as well just use a stock one.
More spark between the electrode = more torque/hp. So I tested various gap widths on NGK two step colder plugs for a few days....and the size of the gap I used varied depending on even which intercooler I was using ( ALTA DFIC and GP ) due to the air flow. So the size of the SC pulley also comes into play as well.
I ended up at a gap of .055. making a huge difference in both torque and engine response over stock gap/coil pack.
More spark between the electrode = more torque/hp. So I tested various gap widths on NGK two step colder plugs for a few days....and the size of the gap I used varied depending on even which intercooler I was using ( ALTA DFIC and GP ) due to the air flow. So the size of the SC pulley also comes into play as well.
I ended up at a gap of .055. making a huge difference in both torque and engine response over stock gap/coil pack.
#22
Unless one bothers to take the time to re-gap the spark plugs when using the MSD packs, you may as well just use a stock one.
More spark between the electrode = more torque/hp. So I tested various gap widths on NGK two step colder plugs for a few days....and the size of the gap I used varied depending on even which intercooler I was using ( ALTA DFIC and GP ) due to the air flow. So the size of the SC pulley also comes into play as well.
I ended up at a gap of .055. making a huge difference in both torque and engine response over stock gap/coil pack.
More spark between the electrode = more torque/hp. So I tested various gap widths on NGK two step colder plugs for a few days....and the size of the gap I used varied depending on even which intercooler I was using ( ALTA DFIC and GP ) due to the air flow. So the size of the SC pulley also comes into play as well.
I ended up at a gap of .055. making a huge difference in both torque and engine response over stock gap/coil pack.
#23
#24
#25
Yes if they are not the 4 prong plugs.
You can probably start with .050 for a gap and see how that works. Even increments as little as .005 + or - makes a difference.