R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 First "Real Maintenance" Job - Intimidated

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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 12:56 PM
  #1  
Stitch05's Avatar
Stitch05
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First "Real Maintenance" Job - Intimidated

Hi all,

First post here, although I've been loitering for a long time. I've conducted basic maintenance on my '05 MCS such as oil changes, but have frankly been neglecting it since buying it as a college freshman in '10. The car has been a total trooper. Finally, she gave a couple of months ago when the passenger rear caliper seized up on the rotor and, upon inspection, the driver's side was about ready to go as well. Embarrassing, especially since I autoX. So, I replaced both rear calipers as well as rotors and pads all around. A couple of days ago I got a thumping noise in the passenger rear. Not rocket science - definitely a broken rear sway bar end link. Good for the car for sitting outside in Cincinnati winters and getting autocrossed and holding up that long.

So, fresh out of school, it's time to give the car the attention it deserves and desperately needs. I just ordered:
  • Alta V2 adjustable sway bar end links (I'll get a new sway bar soonish)
  • 5-30 full synthetic engine oil (Havoline, because it was discounted)
  • Manual transmission fluid
  • Oil Filter
  • Cabin Air Filter
  • Engine Air Filter
  • Alta 15% pulley
  • Techron fuel cleaner
  • Coolant
  • Serpentine Belt
  • NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs

My question is threefold. First, can you guys think of anything important to add to that list? Second, what would you recommend allowing a shop to do, versus doing myself? I'm definitely going to hand off the belt/pulley. Flirting with passing off the coolant flush and end link jobs as well. Finally, can you please pleas help me when my car is stuck on jack stands and I ***** up?! Okay, that last question is mostly begging.

Thanks for any help. This is an awesome community here and I'm excited to be more of an official contributor.

Sorry for the long post.

TL;DR I neglected my car. Now it needs some love. I'm intimidated and need a little help.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 01:28 PM
  #2  
thulchatt's Avatar
thulchatt
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,705
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From: Chattanooga, TN
This is all work you can do yourself.
The pulley is not hard, just follow the directions. It is just a simple set of steps that almost anyone can do.

Look at the Girls Guide to changing the coolant. I use this method which is just really just use a shop vac to suck the coolant out and then replace. Very easy.

I did not see the mileage on your car but you may want to consider a crank pulley (ATI from WayMotorWorks http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html ). if the pulley goes you are out of commission.

Also, get a new belt tensioner. RockAuto is a good source but there are others for low costs.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 01:32 PM
  #3  
Capt_bj's Avatar
Capt_bj
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,037
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From: Melbourne, FL
if the front control arm bushings have never been replaced they are probably shot. If you replace, go to Powerflex poly. This is DIY only for more experienced wrench turners . . .


It is almost certainly ready for shocks/struts . . . you could get both of these done at the same time ... but parts alone won't be cheap. BUT if you continue to a/c the tighter suspension should be very noticeable.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 06:20 AM
  #4  
louie12345's Avatar
louie12345
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2014
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don't forget the belt tensioner.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #5  
Aspen's Avatar
Aspen
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 424
Likes: 26
From: Kanuckistan
Might want to check the autoX class with a pulley, you won't be competitive anymore if that appeals to you.
I recently tried to do the pulley myself. I got stopped by the lower engine mount bolt. It was stuck and very difficult to break free while on jack stands. So I gave up put the car back together and got a shop to loosen it for me. The OP is in salt country so this may render the pulley swap more difficult for a novice/shadetree to get done.
I too suggest you look at the front control arm bushings and the ball joints.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 11:12 AM
  #6  
Stitch05's Avatar
Stitch05
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Yeah, good point about the SCCA. I'm definitely more interested in just going fast and having fun than getting a D Stock class win. The MINI will never be competitive in any of the higher classes. Oh well.
 
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