R50/53 Finally, Gen1 Power Steering Delete Kit Available Soon!!!!
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 3
From: NW Indiana (45 min south of Downtown Chicago)
I can't figure this out for the life of me!
I'm trying to pull the fuse for the PSP. The fan and pump are all on f41 correct? (05 MCS)
The pump still runs even with the fuse pulled.
Am I doing something wrong?
I'm trying to pull the fuse for the PSP. The fan and pump are all on f41 correct? (05 MCS)
The pump still runs even with the fuse pulled.
Am I doing something wrong?
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 909
Likes: 3
From: New York, NY
try fuse 39 -- you just disabled the fan i think which I think is tied to the radiator cooling fan so you might want to put fuse 41 back.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 3
From: NW Indiana (45 min south of Downtown Chicago)
41 is back in. 39 did the trick. I can leave this fuse out correct? It won't affect anything else by having it removed?
When I started my car and didn't hear the groaning, loud, annoying pump... I sat there for a second and did exactly this, almost with tears in my eyes.
I don't care if the wheel is difficult to turn. The sound being gone is well worth it to me. Especially since my pump was nearly dead.
When I started my car and didn't hear the groaning, loud, annoying pump... I sat there for a second and did exactly this, almost with tears in my eyes.
I don't care if the wheel is difficult to turn. The sound being gone is well worth it to me. Especially since my pump was nearly dead.
Last edited by jskeith111; Aug 22, 2014 at 09:27 AM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 3
From: NW Indiana (45 min south of Downtown Chicago)
Will definitely purchase. Someone on here mentioned on a scale of 1 (dead pump) to 10 (fully working pump) this delete is about a 3-4 in terms of how tough the wheel turns?
Is this accurate?
Is this accurate?
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
Mine did twice. 1st when my alternator died, 2nd when my crank pulley decided to die. Rebuilt the former & replaced the latter w/ ATI.
Edited: Fuse 39 is the cause. Don't remove that to disable PS Pump as the alternator is hooked w/ it. Check the fuse/relay/grounding directory on post136 below.
Edited: Fuse 39 is the cause. Don't remove that to disable PS Pump as the alternator is hooked w/ it. Check the fuse/relay/grounding directory on post136 below.
Last edited by minsanity; Aug 22, 2014 at 07:43 PM.
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
Gen 1 Fuse/Relay Directory:
http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...?f=113&t=19371
You took out the wrong 5A fuse from inside the car.
F39 5A Alternator/Electric Steering control unit/hydraulic pump
Go to the engine bay fuse box:
FL4 100A Electric Steering control unit/Hydraulic pump
http://www.sunshineminis.org/forums/...?f=113&t=19371
You took out the wrong 5A fuse from inside the car.
F39 5A Alternator/Electric Steering control unit/hydraulic pump
Go to the engine bay fuse box:
FL4 100A Electric Steering control unit/Hydraulic pump
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 880
Likes: 56
From: Québec, Canada
The FL4 100 amp fuse for the power steering is UNDER the fuse box (for my 2005 at least). You need to disconnect the battery, remove the positive cable on the fuse box and the two bolts holding the box, then flip it over and remove the cover. There's 2 or 3 fuses under there, just make sure it's the correct one you're taking out and they are held by torx screws.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: North Dakota
This is epic.
Should put the Fuse Info on the topic #1 for people to have quick reference to it.
Just ordered.
Will await in mail. Install and give a feedback on it.
Should put the Fuse Info on the topic #1 for people to have quick reference to it.
Just ordered.
Will await in mail. Install and give a feedback on it.
Last edited by Odin2free; Aug 22, 2014 at 08:18 PM.
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
The FL4 100 amp fuse for the power steering is UNDER the fuse box (for my 2005 at least). You need to disconnect the battery, remove the positive cable on the fuse box and the two bolts holding the box, then flip it over and remove the cover. There's 2 or 3 fuses under there, just make sure it's the correct one you're taking out and they are held by torx screws.
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
Last edited by minsanity; Aug 23, 2014 at 12:13 AM.
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 352
Likes: 1
From: Aurora, IL
Sorry for taking so long to post my review. My power steering pump was making the most annoying, embarrassing whine so I disconnected it around May. I drove around like this trying to decide what I was going to do. I saw the posting about Condor making the ps delete so I thought I would wait and give it a shot. It is definitely an improvement over just disconnecting the pump. It is not night and day but enough to where I am happy to have installed it. Obviously I miss the quickness of my steering when the pump was fully operational. The power steering pump was kind of heavy so at least it's not dead weight now that it is off of the car. In the future I will probably buy a new pump but for now I'm happy. Only super tight spots is where the steering is a struggle.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Condor Power steering Delete Install Procedures
1. Remove your power steering system. This includes the pump, FL4 100A PS Pump fuse in the engine bay fuse box, lines, and reservoir.
Da_Ghost shared this:
The FL4 100 amp fuse for the power steering is UNDER the fuse box. You need to disconnect the battery, remove the positive cable on the fuse box and the two bolts holding the box, then flip it over and remove the cover. There's 2 or 3 fuses under there, just make sure it's the correct one you're taking out and they are held by torx screws.
2. Turn your rack full lock from one side to the other side 3-4 times. This removes unnecessary fluid.
3. Slide 1 washer onto the smaller banjo bolt. Slide the delete onto the smaller banjo bolt. Now slide 1 washer onto the same smaller banjo bolt. Your delete should be sandwiched between 2 washers on the smaller banjo bolt.
4. Slide 2 washers onto the larger banjo bolt. Slide the larger banjo bolt with the 2 washers onto the delete. Now slide 1 washer onto the larger banjo bolt.. Your delete should be sandwiched between 3 washers on the larger banjo bolt.
5. Install your delete onto your rack by tightening your banjo bolts.
6. It is important to make sure you do not over *tighten it. You do not want to crush the UHMW.
Questions? email us at condorspeedshop@gmail.com
1. Remove your power steering system. This includes the pump, FL4 100A PS Pump fuse in the engine bay fuse box, lines, and reservoir.
Da_Ghost shared this:
The FL4 100 amp fuse for the power steering is UNDER the fuse box. You need to disconnect the battery, remove the positive cable on the fuse box and the two bolts holding the box, then flip it over and remove the cover. There's 2 or 3 fuses under there, just make sure it's the correct one you're taking out and they are held by torx screws.
2. Turn your rack full lock from one side to the other side 3-4 times. This removes unnecessary fluid.
3. Slide 1 washer onto the smaller banjo bolt. Slide the delete onto the smaller banjo bolt. Now slide 1 washer onto the same smaller banjo bolt. Your delete should be sandwiched between 2 washers on the smaller banjo bolt.
4. Slide 2 washers onto the larger banjo bolt. Slide the larger banjo bolt with the 2 washers onto the delete. Now slide 1 washer onto the larger banjo bolt.. Your delete should be sandwiched between 3 washers on the larger banjo bolt.
5. Install your delete onto your rack by tightening your banjo bolts.
6. It is important to make sure you do not over *tighten it. You do not want to crush the UHMW.
Questions? email us at condorspeedshop@gmail.com
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
Did you access the bolts from the driver side (LH) wheel well? I won't recommend going the subframe removal route, but if you have to, might as well check all bushes & ball joints along the way. Dropping subframe makes everything easy.
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 909
Likes: 3
From: New York, NY
I don't have this mod but if you can slip a long rod over the end of the wrench you can use that to get more leverage or take a hammer and tap the end of the wrench to get it started....sometimes the vibration and shock of a sudden blow can loosen up bolts.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
So I finally got everything taken apart and put the delete on. The steering effort is definitely easier than with a dead ps pump, parking is difficult and emergency maneuvers can get sketchy while getting used to having it on. It definitely takes some getting used to but has been fun so far. Someone earlier said it's like a 3-4 on the scale and I agree. I will continue driving with it to see how it feels.
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6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 25
Grats, Tim. Thanks for sharing. Get used to it 1st & let us know if it'll grow on you. Your MINI has a few parts less to worry about now. No more leaks; batt discharges due to stuck pump; fire risk; pricey pump/hoses/fan expenses.......
Last edited by minsanity; Aug 30, 2014 at 08:54 AM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 3
From: NW Indiana (45 min south of Downtown Chicago)
"then flip it over"
When you say take off the two 10mm bolts, and disconnect positive cable and then flip over the fuse box, I can't flip over my fuse box. There are cables running into the bottom of it that prevent me from lifting up the box to flip it. Pardon my "noobness" as I have never had to remove this front fuse box before. Is there something that I am missing here?
*EDIT*
I was able to tilt the box up to where the bottom of the box was facing the windshield. I could not flip the box completely over. This allowed just enough room to fit a torx screw in there to pull the 100A fuse.
*EDIT*
I was able to tilt the box up to where the bottom of the box was facing the windshield. I could not flip the box completely over. This allowed just enough room to fit a torx screw in there to pull the 100A fuse.
Last edited by jskeith111; Sep 18, 2014 at 10:55 AM. Reason: figured it out.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 880
Likes: 56
From: Québec, Canada
When you say take off the two 10mm bolts, and disconnect positive cable and then flip over the fuse box, I can't flip over my fuse box. There are cables running into the bottom of it that prevent me from lifting up the box to flip it. Pardon my "noobness" as I have never had to remove this front fuse box before. Is there something that I am missing here?
*EDIT*
I was able to tilt the box up to where the bottom of the box was facing the windshield. I could not flip the box completely over. This allowed just enough room to fit a torx screw in there to pull the 100A fuse.
*EDIT*
I was able to tilt the box up to where the bottom of the box was facing the windshield. I could not flip the box completely over. This allowed just enough room to fit a torx screw in there to pull the 100A fuse.
I had my mechanic put this in yesterday instead of replacing the pump. I know it's supposed to be harder, but did he do it right?
Looking at the wheel as if it were a clock, I can go from 12 to 1-2 and 12 to 11-10 fairly easily. Anything past that, and it's really tough to turn. I almost want to say it was easier with the dead pump in. Could there be too much fluid in the rack still, or is this how it's supposed to be?
Looking at the wheel as if it were a clock, I can go from 12 to 1-2 and 12 to 11-10 fairly easily. Anything past that, and it's really tough to turn. I almost want to say it was easier with the dead pump in. Could there be too much fluid in the rack still, or is this how it's supposed to be?