How did you have a maintenance issue (brakes) resolved into a warranty issue?

Coop.

 

Because they are relatively "thin" to begin with. By the time the pads are worn and need replacing, the rotor is also worn and resurfacing it would put the thickness out of spec. This is not something specific to the MINI. When I worked in autoparts 14 years ago, I ran across quite a few cars (import and domestic as well) that had to have new rotors with a new brake job. More than a few times we would be sent FWD car rotors to be turned and after I checked them a micrometer, I'd have to call the shop and tell them I couldn't turn them.

Why do manufacturuers do this? A couple of reasons: cost and weight. Thinner rotor = less material = less cost. Also, less material = less weight and less unsprung weight (worst kind) = better performance. All of the parts are engineered to work together and simply adding weight to the rotors so they can be run with two sets of pads isn't really worth the additional weight required to beef up the rest of the surrounding components to carry them.

 

To add another voice to the debate, I thought the same thing about downshifting. But all my friends and coworkers in Europe drive that way all the time. Everybody I have driven with in Europe does this. They all laugh when I take the car out of gear when slowing down and braking. They have all claimed that the clutch and engine holds up fine. Everyone I know in Europe, which is quite a few, have cars near or in excess of 100,000 miles and many have well over 200,000 miles with no excessive wear on clutches, driving like this over 10-15 years.

 

"warranty" and "free maintenance" are two different things.
Our MINIs come with 4yr warranty, but 3 yr maintenance. Brakes are wear items, so brakes/rotors will be replaced under the 3 yr free maintenance program. Once you go over 3 yr/36k miles, you have to pay for the brake job.

I believe MINI offers an upgrade to 4yr "free maintenance" for about $500 (not sure of the exact cost). This can be purchased at any dealer, and maintenance can be done at any dealer. BMW takes the money and pays the dealerships to perform the 4th year maintenance. If you need a brake job during the 4th year, then it may be cheaper to purchase this extra year of free maintenance.

Extended warranty is a totally different thing. They are provided by 3rd party companies, and covers your car after your 4yr/50k warranty is up. Dealers usually make A LOT of money by selling extend warranties.

Hope this clears up some of the confusion in this thread...

 

I too have been downshifting for a long time... my 85 CIVIC hatchback went over 200,000 miles and still had the original clutch when I donated it... I regularly get 45-50k out of a set of front pads. Replaced my MCS's at 42,000 (front and rear). I even downshift my '99 automatic 528 to save brakes... 160,000 miles and no transmission issues.

Remember that smooth shifting is accomplished by matching the engine revs to the new gear. Downshifting properly accomplished is the same thing, match the new, higher, revs. This usually requires a mastery of heel and toe footwork. Toe on the brake, roll the side of your foot to blip the throttle to get the new rev point, release the clutch.

 

There is a subtle difference between downshifting while matching revs (proper thing to do) and using the engine as a brake (downshifting without matching revs).

The latter abuses the engine the former does not. the Tormer puts the engine in the correct RPM range so that when the loud pedal is applied again, the engine will be at optimum RPM's for the gear selected......
It ain't rocket science and it ain't physically hard to master. Now playing golf....THAT is a difficult thing to master....aaaaargh!!!!

 

sorry to bring back an old thread,.... but thought I'd share this in regards to the $1,000 brake job., check out this invoice that I was qouted
They really do exsist,...FML !!!!

DOC004.PDF

 

labor on barke jobs is where the money goes, years ago my brother went to sears for front and rear brakes on of all things a chevette and back in 1992 it was over 700 bucks, do it yourself take your time if your not well versed and it will be fine if you really dont trust it ask around someone here close to you can always help but a grand for brakes....not unless the rotors are hand carved

 

Folks, I mean no disrespect but a) Don't use the engine to brake. Brakes are cheap compared to engines and transmissions (and I don't care how smooth you think you are). b) If you're moving, don't coast by putting the transmission into neutral. If you had to make a sudden emergency move to avoid an accident, you would have no power until you put it back into gear. c)As for rotors and pads, if you will check with every manufacturer of performance pads, they recommend that you bed in new pads with old rotors if using the same compound, so long as sufficient thickness exists. The min. thickness is cast or stamped into each rotor. Finally, if you want to avoid being ripped off, learn how to inspect your own pads and rotors to determine if they really need changing. Then learn how to do your own work. Not only will you save money but you'll gain a great deal of satisfaction from doing the job correctly. There are plenty of websites (including our own "How To") with excellent tutorials if you'll just do a search.

 

REVIVAL of the day award!!!!!!

2004