Imo....be carful with amazon...their "will it fit" , or "show me parts for my car" is not great...
So check the part number with a 2nd site...
For many things... I find rockauto.com with their 5% off coupon is within pennies of amazon...better selection...more likely to fit...and faster shipping from my experiences.

 

Fully agree with that, which is why I came here. Amazon apparently had some H7 headlights not fitting my car, while others apparently fit fine.

Any other suggestions or link to plug cables would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to spend a lot, but getting some that would work for the next 90k miles would be greatly appreciated!

 

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2004-C...ion/ES2581726/. 27.00


Sorry I just noticed that they are back ordered.

 

Brake parts on amazon are THE worst....good prices...but fitting system is useless...
Amazon does not take into account that the 2007+8 cabrio are gen1...and has no option for jcw big brake kits...sometimes it shows jcw rotors...sometimes stock...it is a mess.
As for wires...bet NGK is fine if you can cross ref the number to be sure it fits.
The wires I went with I bought on the basis of the quality plugboots/wires/cost....but lots out there...A known brand should be pretty safe..
Imo avoid wires claiming hp gains...especially high priced ones...most have a gimmick...

 

Yeah, I think I'm going to go with the NGKs off Amazon. I checked the part number, and they seem to match other sites, and most of the comments on the Amazon page reference Mini Coopers. It's also the same company as the plugs I'm putting in, for whatever that's worth - and they are in stock. Thanks for the recommendations, very much appreciated.

 

Thanks again for all the help thus far. Would you recommend me getting some strut tower plates (Craven Speed ones), and possibly a rear sway bar (any one that your recommend?). I'm finding that "strut mushrooming" is an issue, and that the plates help prevent it - so $130some might prevent a $1k repair later?

 

I'm a fan of STDs. (did I just say that?)
I definitely had mushrooming on mine. If you're cheap, you can find them used occasionally for ~$100
Rear sway is nice. Some like the 19mm on hard, I like my 22mm on soft. 25mm hollow is lighter and more expensive (and equivalent to the 22.) Lots of threads discussing pros/cons.

 

For plug wires, Genuine 1s don't set you back much
Cylinder1 PN:12-12-7-513-032 Pelican has this for $14.50ea
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_928M=ON

Cyl2: 12-12-7-513-033
Cyl3: 12-12-7-513-034
Cyl4: 12-12-7-513-035

 

Can anyone recommend me a replacement coil pack for my '04 R50? I keep seeing links to the "screamin' demon" coil, but that's not really what I'm going for. Just something to replace the one that got me to 90k miles without issue. Thanks!

 

Stay w/ stock, matty.
PN:12137510738
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...-7-510-738-BOE

 

One issue with the oem is the nickle plated iron plugs...they corrode...
The "economy" ones on rockauto have the same plugs...all the "premium" ones have brass....
Imo find one with brass terminals....
Have seen MANY brands around....
I will likely get a NGK since it is a brand I trust.(have seen them from time to time)... Some off brands can be cheap Chinese junk...( I went through a few "free lifetime warrenty" single plug coils on a Toyota Highlander before I threw them out and bought oem denso brand ones (the oem((made in japan))lasted almost 210,000 miles...the "lifetime" auto zone units from "standard" lasted 3000-9000 miles ..cheap Chinese junk.....)....to add insult...the desnso units were $2 cheaper EACH when bought online from rockauto than the local "lifetime" junk part....lesson learned.

 

True on the corrosion, esp on terminal3. But honestly, fears about this issue may be overemphasized as I've yet to have misfire from the corrosion or feel any improvement after cleaning the terminals. Changing plugs do give a significant difference you can actually sense.
I've stuck w/ stock after all these years of proven performance & reliability.

 

I'd rate what I'm looking for from most important to least important to be reliable (don't want to have to do everything over again next year), efficient (love the MPG on these cars), and then fun/performance. It's my daily driver, after all....

Thanks for all the words of wisdom everyone!

 

For the Cooper Engine R50 / R52 ( Non S ) :

Bosch wire set is on BO at this time. But we do have the Genuine MINI or Beru. We also have the service kits.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2004-Cooper-R50-Base-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W10B16A/Maintenance/Engine/2




There is also the little clips for the OEM and OEM sized wires, Some people forget about these or they are missing. Go inline to the # 3 & 4 wire to the back to keep the wires separated and not rubbing on the valve cover. X 2.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07131487247/



Thanks

 

Today I got the oil and filter changed, x4 H7 headlights replaced, spark plugs swapped, and transmission fluid changed. Almost got in a bind with the tranny fluid by forgetting to located as well as loosen the fill plug before removing the drain plug, but I got it all worked out. Thanks again to everyone!! Next up, suspension....

 

Since nobody mentioned this in this thread, I will chime in: the o2 sensor went out on my '04 R50 at about 100k. I learned the hard (expensive) way that you have to use an NTK 25648. I tried a universal Bosch sensor first; the car ran better, but I could never clear the engine code. Only the NTK cleared the code; the connector is correct too. I got mine at autopartswarehouse.com. Also, the clutch went out completely (wouldn't engage any more. Wife was driving it; she was so happy...) at 103k, so plan on that.
Good call on the mobile1 and the MTL; the 04 R50 is a great car; keep good fluids in it, and it'll keep runnin' like a top.

Also...change out the redline MTL every 30k miles

 

Roughly a year later and all items I did last year worked out great. I also finally got around to swapping out the serpentine belt (getting the proper tool made all the difference).

Recently I've noticed a coolant leak. Did some homework and found the likely source to be the thermostat, or the housing it goes in. Ordered both and hope to swap them this weekend along with a coolant flush and refill (likely using the shop vac method I've seen). Any other suggestions?

Currently at 105k miles and going strong. No recent issues with power steering either....never got around to contacting the dealer about it, but it hasn't come back up, either.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Two other maintenance items I'm going to attempt in the next few weeks....

1 - brake fluid flush. Not sure when it's last been done, but likely when I replaced rotors 3 or so years ago. Looks like it can be a one man job with this:


and two bottles of this:


Any alternate items I should consider? Should I get s bleeder bottle?

2 - Power steering fluid change, just turkey baste out when I can from the reservoir, and fill back with this:


All sound good? Thanks again for all the help here.

 

Ok, so I'm not sure if I really F'ed up or not, any and all advice would be much appreciated! So yesterday I gave myself a few hours to replace the thermostat and housing. I removed the airbox and battery cage. In removing the later, I guess I dislodged the retaining clip for the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder. I didn't realize it at the time, though. So I swapped the t-stat and housing and put everything back together. I went to the drivers seat, put the key in and pushed the clutch, which went immediately to the floor. The hydraulic line had detached itself from the slave cylinder and brake fluid spewed out of the line. I took the airbox and battery cage back out, reattached the line and made sure the retaining clip was back on snug. I checked the brake fluid level and it seems to be fine. I'm sure this likely allowed air into my slave cylinder? Does this now mean I'll need to bleed the system (was likely going to do the brakes lines in the next few weeks anyway, but I'm unsure how to do the master and slave cylinder)? Shifting into reverse to get the car off the ramps was difficult, but it's been a bit difficult to get into reverse on this car for the last 20k miles or so. Any other symptoms I would notice if anything bad is happening? Anything that can or should be done at this point? Thanks!

 

I think you mean slave cylinder for the clutch if you are having shifting problems... And your statement about clutch pedal going to the floor. If not and you meant brakes... You definitely should bleed them....any sealed system when cracked open needs to be bled.

 

Yup, I mean slave cylinder. I did a little homework to see exactly what it is I did.


I hit and dislodged that little clip which holds the hydraulic line on the slave cylinder which connects back to the master cylinder. When I then hit the clutch, it went to the floor and fluid came out of the disconnected line.


I got it all back together, but I assume that I've allowed air into either the slave cylinder, the hydraulic line, or both. I was planning on bleeding the brakes in the next few weeks (gonna buy one of those pressure bleeders for that job) - and I assume that I should also bleed the clutch cylinders now as well. I've never done either, but at least the brakes don't look too difficult.


My question is how to do it to an already connected slave cylinder. From looking online here, it seems that most bleed their slave cylinder with it disconnected from the car as it needs to be fully depressed to remove all the air from it. Will that be necessary for me as well with my situation? Any tips for doing that part of the job? How quickly should I attempt to do that? Can it wait till the car is in the shop for my inspection in April? Thanks for any assistance!

 

I'll defer to everyone else I'm terrified of bleeding any system on the mini they all seem to suck in one way or another. If it shifts okay I would say you are probably fine...

But I am still unsure of what you disconnected. The brake slave cylinder or clutch? Brake slave should not have impacted your clutch and clutch slave would not have shot brake fluid all over.

 

I disconnected the clutch slave cylinder - it runs off the same fluid reservoir as the brake system.


The brake fluid reservoir on the R50 apparently (if my understanding is correct) has 5 "lines" running from it - one for each wheel for the brakes, and a 5th line to the clutch master cylinder, which then has a line going to the clutch slave cylinder. That's the line I disconnected (at the clutch slave cylinder, which is right under the battery cage). So yes, when I hit the clutch pedal, brake fluid spilled out.


Called my mechanic this morning, and he said as long as both my brake and clutch pedal have pressure and the car is drivable (it is), bleeding the entire system (brakes and clutch cylinders) can likely wait till August can I can have it done when I get the car inspected.


He never charges me for labor (he's a very good family friend), and he has a pressure bleeder I can use so I don't have to purchase my own - just brake fluid. That said, any recommendation for brake fluid - I've seen most suggest ATE super blue, but that's no longer sold apparently. Anything I can pick up at a local auto store easily that will be appropriate?