2002 Mini Cooper S 121xxx Miles, Stock.

Hello everyone, I realize this is the 3rd supercharger thread in a couple weeks and I have read them yet i have a question.

From my readings in the past two days (please correct me when i am wrong) the supercharger will make noise for two reasons

1) The gears next to the water pump on one side are grinding due to a seal failure that will suck the oil out of the gear chamber.

2) The bearing on the opposite side of the supercharger will fail for some reaon i do not know (this is the supercharger pulley that is attached to the serpentine?)

About a week ago i started hearing a ringing/metallic noise coming from my engine when i accelerate, it was intermittent and got louder at higher RPM

Went to BRracing in Los Gatos, CA (very friendly and a great help, if you are in Northern California and need a shop i highly recommend) and spoke with Bruce who kindly gave me his advice, the bearing for my supercharger puley has failed and needs to be rebuilt.

Rather than chew up his time I thought i would bring my question to the boards as well.

What is the difference in the rebuild procedures for these two issues? Is there somewhere during this procedure I can save myself money besides pulling the supercharger myself? Can i replace the bearing myself?

I understand the first issue (gear failure due to oil loss) requires new gears & i wouldn't be able to do it myself. When i pull my supercharger I will be able to check for this failure.

I have read a few posts about supercharger pulling and maintenance and one in particular seemed to be full of consideration for those thinking they could take on this job yet do not have the skill, I would like to stay away from those responses, I have experience with major engine overhaul ('94 z28 camaro engine pull, rebuild, sale, then swap for '97(also rebuilt) to toot my own horn) and stick with technical advice.

Thank you in advance, I am a full time student and have a hobby for cars, which is lucky because i cannot afford to pay a shop to complete this procedure.

By the way this is my daily driver and time im guessing is of the essence until i have a non rebuild-able SC. Currently having the windows up and my music on medium volume is enough to drown out the ringing i hear.

Attempted to attach a video of the noise i hear, it was not accepted as a valid file, can send via text or email.

 

Some links for rebuilding M45

Eaton Supercharger Rebuilding- Removing Rear Needle Bearing

www.youtube.com/embed/48a8QvPwbWQ

Eaton Supercharger rebuiliding- rear needle bearing installation

www.youtube.com/embed/EksCcU7CeNY

 

Thanks for the reply, I've done some research and my first course of action is to rebuild the nose cone (coupler and bearing replacement)

 

Biggest issue is retimeing the rotors when done...
Steigimer does good rebuilds for a good price...
Having bins of spare rotors to find ones that match the wear your body Has to return the sc to full efficiency is key....
Doing a bearing change IS NOT A REBUILD, just a repair....
Remember, a sc is a wear item...the lobes wear and efficiency drops, so just be sure the effort you are willing to do is worth what you are getting back....
Good luck...impressive list of prior work!!

 

I was unaware i would have to retime the rotors. Do you have any info on how this is done?

 

Not sure...
But the added reminder that the mini Eaton m45 is a bit more complex than the ones shown due to the PTO for the water pump....so much so some shops DO NOT WORK ON THEM...

 

Noooo these links are coming up “not available.” My PTO’s are themselves so now doing the electric WP conversion, but knowing the gear oil got sucked through I’m wanting to replace needle bearing and seal before hitting the road again. All else on the m45 looks good enough to me as far as play etc so I’m more than less wanting to take the time now for some “preventative” maintenance on this bearing now being dry and burning itself up and then having to start this process all over. I for the life of me can not find anything on if these bearings on if they are indeed internal and all has to be taken apart carefully to not mess with timing issues so I can simply replace bearing/seal. Any insight would be appreciated.