I did a search but did not find a 100% definite answer. I assume I can use the new style caged oil filter with an older filter cap by removing the cage out of the cap itself and i do not need to upgrade to the new style filter cap? I assume the hard plastic end goes down?

 

Not sure what you are asking. Pics?

 

The older cars came with a plastic cage and a spring in the top of the oil canister.
See pics here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...7-post279.html
From the pics, it looks like the poster put the caged filter over the 'basket'. Not sure how that would work as I have the later version. As it shows, the end with the rubber gasket goes towards the car.

 

Trophy,

Sounds like you have an older cage style with production up to 7/2004. All the new filter have the built in cage.




This should help.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-question.html

Filters:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11427512446/

 

Ah, I'm tracking now. Sounds like you guys answered the question.

 

lots of good info here!! problem is I have the old style cap but no spring or cage. Do I need to change over to the new style cap then? The old style cap is discontinued. This is a great site for good quality info.

 

I dont think so, I never switched anything and have been using the "newer" filters for years.

Nik

 

Also the old style filter is discontinued also

 

Nik, do you still have your cage and spring? I do not.

 

Oh, oops. Just looked at the link from ECSTunning above. I have the gen 1 housing for all other models, so apparently I never had the cage. Eric's link shows that you are supposed to keep the cage.

Nik

 

from my research so far I believe if you have "lost" your spring and cage the only option is to upgrade to a new style filter cap. Local dealer has then for 40 bucks in stock.

 

The older style oil filter cap with the cage is NLA . You cannot get the cage or spring by itself. You keep the cage in for the older style oil change with the newer filter, just like Eric and myself posted.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11427514988/ #4 in picture.



You would have to convert to the newer style which is used for R50 and R52 Base or "justa" and for Cooper S R52 & R53 ( Automatics only ).

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11427563522/ES24056/


It includes the newer cap and has a corresponding newer base. Comes loaded with everything you need.

Thanks , hope that helps.

 

I talked with minimania and was told i can use the newer cap on my old base, is this incorrect?

 

I was going by the MINI Parts Database Manual and parts numbering they have the older part number for the cover fwd to the whole base.

I have heard of people installing but have never seen it done. Just compare the threads side by side if you go that route.

Thanks

 

I was also concerned about the internal height and want to make sure filter get pressed all the way down. I will let everybody know this Afternoon thanks

 

I have a 2003 with a build date in August 2002, and I started doing my own oil changes after three years of dealer service. There was no spring or cage in my housing, and I've been using the caged filter with no problems apparent ever since.

 

So I know the recommended upgrade is the entire housing, but you can use the new filter in the old housing with the spring and frame? The new cover may or may not fit the old base and may or may not let you delete the spring and frame.

 

I have a 2003 r50 - and have a late style OILFILTER housing with cage and spring; unfortunately the cage was thrown out.. i bought a "NEW" version of the OILFILTER CAP only, but it gave me a LOW OIL PRESSURE problem/light; so i put back the OLD style cap and new style filter (NO cage nor spring) and it's not giving me a LOW FILTER light problem; though i am still not comfortable driving it as it may not be pressed properly on the BASE, so SOME oil might be "UNFILTERED" and the oil FILTER MIGHT be FLAPPING inside the OILFILTER HOUSING.

I have researcehd and called mini cooper and the only solution with this problem is:

1. CHANGE THE WHOLE OILFILTER HOUSING AND CAP, which the part alone cost $240.00 , check ebay;

2. MECHANIC LABOR COST, not sure but my mechanic quoted me 590$ which i thin it is too much!!!

3. I will try and do it myself, since it only has 3 bolts to be removed, i will post pics on "HOW TO" and if i'm successful in changing the whole thing;

4. first you have to remove the RIGHT FRONT TIRE; and get the screws from there and the sensor; You also need a 13 mm socket, and a "Extension" bar atleast 6 inches. The BOLTS are easy to remove, a simple TUG/PULL can loosen it.