I have a 04 R53 with ASC, is ASC the one on pre-facelift 1st gen's and DSC came on the facelifts?

 

? unsure about the ASC vs DSC. assuming it does come on the facelift, as I have an 06.

as for a "fix" to this problem, well, i just have one of the ian cull circuits, and leave the DSC off now :P

hoping that this will be "fixed" some day. if anyone wants to donate (new?) wheel speed sensors to to fixing the cause, im happy to be the guinea pig!

 

Asc is a more basic system....was standard...
dsc was an option, and came with many packages...has nothing to do with pre/post facelift.

 

Hey guys! I am reviving this old thread because I too am experiencing this issue. First time was a couple months ago while winding out fifth gear. Near redline the light came on and would not go off, but when I restarted the car it worked perfectly. A couple days ago it happened to me multiple times while winding out third and then fourth gears. Has anyone figured out a fix to this yet? Thanks for your help!

 

My car does this too. Sometimes I can't turn the DSC light off after going full throttle for a few gears, need to restart the car to make the light go off. I haven't tried to fix it yet, one of these days I'll get to it.

 

If you hit your DSC switch and the DSC light comes ON....the DSC is actually OFF. The DSC light is notifying you that DSC is turned OFF.

When DSC is ON...there is no light.

When you hit the gas and spin the tires, the DSC activates and turns the light ON while the DSC is doing it's thing. Then it turns off...when the tires stop spinning.

Basically...if you want to spin your tires and have full power, hit the DSC switch to turn the DSC off (which turns the DSC light ON). By default...every time you start your car, the DSC is turned ON....and the DSC light is OFF.

 

Yes we know how to operate the system. The issue we are having here is the DCS system getting stuck deactivated (light stuck on) after full throttle. The switch does nothing, the only thing that turns the light off is restarting the car.

 

This occasionally happens to me as well. I read once in a UK MINI magazine that it was an over boost issue and was considered normal. It is supposedly more common with cars modded with smaller supercharger pulleys. I don't recall the magazine or the person that said it's normal, but they seemed to be a regarded tuner. I stopped sweating it after that. It seems you needn't fix the unfixable.

 

i put an Ian Culls auto up circuit on; set it to turn OFF the DSC. thats the only "known" fix to my knowledge.

otherwise maybe you can code it out if you get the car tuned?

 

The only engine mods I am running is a 15% pulley and CAI. My boost gauge reads about 16psi max when running the car hard, however I'm not fully watching the gauge while doing this. Could I really be overboosting? Also, I do have the Ian Cull circuit, if you set it to turn DSC off, does the light still show up on the dashboard? I would just drive around with it off all the time, but I hate that giant yellow light shining in my face (as well as passengers asking if its a CEL). Because of that I only turn it off on twisty roads when I'm planning to get a little spirited. But I figured (prior to this issue) I should have no problem winding out 3rd or 4th with it on because my tires shouldn't lose grip. Thanks for the replies and the help!!

 

I never had this issue until a few months before my t-map/map went bad...was about a year ago...
Since they were both swapped out, have never had it happen again....
Not sure if it was just an early sign of them being flakey, but have not had it happen again...

 

Mine will only do this in cold weather. In warmer weather it never happens. Once it gets down to the 40's or below it'll do it every time I run the rpm's up over 6K. From what I've researched it seems to be normal for modded cars.

 

I have this problem occasionally too. I normally turn ASC off, light comes on, and I don't have the problem. I'm able to reactivate ASC any time. Sometimes I forget to turn it off, and it will blink when it's working as it should, preventing wheel spin.

I first noticed the ASC light came on solid under heavy throttle, then stayed on when the weather got cold, and I had been deep in the throttle. I naturally assumed I had a wheel sensor go out. But next time I restarted the car the light was off. No codes stored by the way, at least not any that could be read by a $20 generic reader.

About a month later I got more lights, CEL, ASC and limp mode. Running rough in limp mode. Turned it off, turned it on, drove gently the short distance home. Code reader revealed two codes, can't remember the numbers but they were Misfire (not specific to a particular cylinder) and Misfire due to low fuel.

I changed the fuel filter, and have not had any codes or CEL since. I had wondered though if this ASC deactivating problem we have could possibly be fuel related in some way. I believe the ASC light is also tied to the Throttle Body and ABS as well as the wheel speed sensors and steering angle etc.. In my case, it's never happened when warm.

I have had ASC light come on solid and stay on once since I changed the fuel filter so that may have only been coincidence, but I'll see someone who has the reader that reads the BMW/MINI specific codes before I throw any parts at it.

As far as I know my reader only sees codes related to engine and emissions, so anything ASC or ABS related will not be read. For now, I'm able to hit full throttle every day on the onramp, and I don't seem to have any problem, unless I forget to turn off ASC before I drive off on a cold day.

AlexQS

 

p.s. I do have a 15% reduced SC pulley, a 0.8% increased crank damper and a CAI. But I've had those mods for over a year before I had the ASC problem.

 

I had this happen to me as well, I fixed my issue three weeks ago by replacing my ageing battery. No issues for 3 weeks and my came on EVERY time I floored it.

 

Yes, having this problem too. Just read in another thread that a weak battery can cause issues such as this. I am going to load test the battery today. Will let you know if there is consistency to the battery explanation.

 

. The common denominator in all theses posts is " I floored it". Aka. Accelerator pedal to floor hard. Or throttle plate snapped open hard.

2 things come to mind

The battery/ charging system could be momentarily over charging due to RPM and creating a fault till restarted. And
The throttle position / accelerator pedal sensor could be sticking or maxed out some how and throwing a code as they are both connected to DCS control unit.

Just a thought.

Carry on.

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