Yes, I have read that part. But I believe it is with an aftermarket resistor wired in. What I plan to do is by-pass the resistor all together and have the high speed fan turn on when the ECU calls for the low speed. Reading through the thread they say it is doable. However, I cannot picture it out as there is no specific instruction on which wire goes where.

This is a tempory fix as I await the eventual death of the fan motor itself since I will be ordering the OEM fan.

 

It's the same spot as the resistor, but then a wire i believe. You should ask blwnaway, he did the wire thing.

 

So why is not a good idea to go with a solid crank pulley?nvh?

 

The relay jumper I couldn't do in an 02. The advantage of doin' it on the fan side harness as Blwn did is that it's visible, plus using a minimum of 12 ga wire is more reassuring than a 24. It's just bridging the smaller low speed wire to supply the high speed wire when low is called. Again, all on fan side.

 

Harmonic dampers reduce vibration transmittal thru the engines vital parts. Studies will show you that undampened engines, generally, will exhibit more signs of premature wear. Go dampened.
Ask any good tech.

 

This 'Temporary' fix might outlast any new fan's resistor. So here are the corresponding wire colors & designations:
1. Brown=Ground. Don't touch this
2. Red/Blue 4mm=High Speed
3. Red/Green 2.5mm=Low Speed

The guys w/ your build year spliced the resistor between the 4mm & the 2.5mm ON THE FAN-SIDE HARNESS w/o cutting, not the side that goes to the ECU. Blwn just used a wire soldered to the 4mm & 2.5mm w/o cutting, I suppose, letting the wire act as your resistor. Hope this helps.

 

I think I have everything figured out. My only problem now is to find someone to ship me one of those resistors as every site I have checked is not in Asia.

The only one I could find is this one. Would this work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wirewound-...3a539f152#shId

And yes, I held off on the the fan speed relay jump in the relay box as I don't have wires that would clear the relays properly to enable them to fully seat. Spent whole morning looking for the proper resistor, I hope that the one I posted from ebay would suffice.

 

I actually have 2 of those .33ohm mouser ones that I lost interest in installing after bypassing the low. So do most of my MINI buddies. It's honestly better than having a resistor. Cooler engine & A/C. No more intermittent on-off of the high. It's on high always. No drilling, no heat sink. Just a short length of 12ga.
Preference is yours, of course.

 

Planninng to head out and buy some 12gauge wire today. Can you show me how you did it with a picture? I understand where it goes but a picture would be comforting.

I wanna do it before my resistor arrives and see if I can live with the noise.

 

Leme try to scour around. As I've said, mine is an 02, so I had to put the car in service mode, pull out the fan, lose a lil coolant in the process, extract the bad resistor & soldered into the 2 terminals a long looped 12ga. You wont have to do any of that.

 

Post 113 by chris.j.lamb, the chap who discovered the fix, has pix but he did it on the engine side, pre socket. Better to do it post socket on the wires that are part of the fan assembly. Hope this helps. I'll check for some more.
Link:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...olution-5.html

 

Hey minsanity, thanks for the help. But I'm afraid I need more of it.

I'm now more confused. So I bought some 12 gauge wires today. Then I bridged the two red wires, supposedly the high and low fan wires, on the fan side of the harness.

I then started the mini, waited for it to hit 105c. When it did reach 105c, where the low speed should ideally spin, there was still no fan spinning. I was expecting the high speed fan to kick in. When it reached 112c, the temp when the high should normally spin, the high speed did kick in.

But when I turn on the AC, the high speed constantly spins. No more cycling. It only stopped at around 86c, which I theorize the freon pressure must now be low, then kicked in around 88c again in constant high speed as expected.

Any idea what's happening? :(

 

Don't over think the fan triggers. Here is a primer for you:

For 2002-2006 R50 MINI Cooper and R53 Coooper S Hardtops, and 2005-2008 R52 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertibles.

Thermostat:
Thermostat begins to open at 89-92° C (192° F - 198° F) and is fully open at 103° C (217° F).

Expansion Tank Cap:
Cap pressurizes the system to 1.1 bar (16 psi) at which point the cap valve will lift to relieve pressure.

Cooling Fan
Radiator Fan is a nine bladed fan measuring 400mm in diameter, driven by a 350 watt motor controlled by the EMS2000.

Low speed is switched on at 105°C (221° F) coolant temp and off when the temperature drops to 101°C (214° F).

High speed is switched on at 112° C (234° F) and remains on until the system coolant temperature drops by 4° C (7.2° F) at which point the system will revert to Low Speed.

NOTE THIS:
The cooling fan will also operate on Low Speed when the Air Conditioning is switched on and system pressure reaches 8 bar (116 psi). Should the Air Conditioning system pressure rise to 18 bar (261 psi), the fan will automatically run on the High Speed. When A/C pressure is the trigger, there is no definite temp when it turns on/off.

02-03s have the 2plug harness w/ relay in fan assembly. The PS fan in these models turn on w/ highspeed, not w/ low. Post-03, PS fan turns on w/ low. Dealer can rewire your PS fan to turn on w/ LOW.

 

Yes, the part with the AC on I get now as it is not temp related.

However, with the AC OFF and when the coolant temp reached 105 celsius, the high speed should kick in since I bridged the low speed to the high speed. That is the expected result right? Since at 105 celsius the low speed would be triggered, then because I bridged the wires, the high speed should have been spinning right?

That is my concern, as there was no high speed at 105 celsius with AC OFF. :(

 

Are you sure you bridged the right wires? red/green2.5mm to red/blue4mm? Both at post-connector? Useless if it's 2.5-2.5mm. Hope you didn't bridge the brown ground.
Try observing at what temp you get low speed triggered. The principle w/ the fix I did for 02s was simply to remove the resistor, which in turn, supplies the fan w/ 12-14v. w/ the resistor, the fan only gets about 8-9v only.
Facelift ones, you have no high speed relay in the fan assembly, therefore that 4mm high speed wire going to the fan has no power unless the relay provides it. 02s are different, the 4mm wire is always live (even when engine off) going to that sticking relay in the fan. That's why I can't do what the guys w/ your type of harness did. They spliced a wire from the pre-resistor low onto the high. Meaning, when low is called, it's now giving 12-14v into the high.
Hope I'm not confusing you further.
Maybe there's just a slight glitch w/ your coolant temp reading. Keep observing. Mine has been pretty predictable. Having a long wire loop actually provides a small resistance, more than a short wire loop, but less than the designed resistor, of course.

 

Unfortunately there is no way I can observe when low speed is triggered. The other night, with AC OFF, I ran the engine till 105c and NO low speed. When it hit 112c, the high speed kicked in like clockwork.

What I expected by tapping the low speed wire to the high speed from the fan side of the harness, was that the high speed would instead kick in. Didn't happen. What if I severed the low speed wire completely? Fan side of the harness of course.

OR maybe I'll just do it from the relay instead in the fuse box? Problem is, the wire has to be really small to enable the relays to seat fully. Would a small wire be a problem at the relay level? My understanding is that all it does is switch the current on and off.

 

Try checking or swapping your low speed relay. It might be faulty or not sitting right after fiddling to squeeze the jumper. I'm not too comfortable w/ small post-relay wires running a 350watt fan motor. Check auto-electrical wire gauging, You'd see corresponding amps/lengths/sizes.!4ga seems to be minimum depending on length. I can even feel my 12ga heat up just a bit.

 

Okay, thank you so much!

One last thing, would you please tell me what pin of the relay should be bridged? The one shown to me at the low fan speed resistor thread was that a bridge wire should be connected at pin 30 between the low and high speed fan relays.

 

I won't recommend doing relay bridging. Seems I can't find the pic you're referring to

 

Yeah, he deleted his post. The pic, before he deleted it, showed a wire running from the pin 30 slot of the low speed fan relay to the pin 30 slot of the high speed fan relay. It would seem that what he wanted to achieve was that the relay of the high speed fan is also triggered when the low speed fan is triggered. Which makes me think, shouldn't the wire be at pin 86(trigger) then? So that it triggers the high speed as well?

Sorry man, I must be annoying you with all my questions.

 

No worries, Mig. We all are here for 1 same passion. Jumping the resistor is a tried & tested fix. No need to reinvent the wheel here. It's a matter of choosing between having a new resistor in or just a looped wire bridge. I'm pretty confident you'd get it right. I try to be conservative & tend to overbuild. That relay approach, I'm not too comfortable & will never do myself. I recall an old mod sometime back w/ the tail lights using a paper clip which a few did & blamed for the failure of their BCUs, if I remembered right. Electrics/tronics aren't among my strengths but I try to follow. Therefore, my opinion about jumping relays may be wrong.

 

I wouldn't try jumping the relay. Just pull it out and tap on it, maybe it is sticking? If you have a multimeter, you can measure if there's any voltage coming from the plug.

It took a while for mine to come on too, but it was well below freezing when I installed the resistor

 

Okay. Thanks as always guys!

Minsanity, I will take your advice and leave the relay alone but will check it for proper seating and if it's still working. It could be dead as well.

Yeah, I love this car! Too much fun driving it!

 

Let us know how it works out. I'm sure it'll work. Merry Christmas!

 

I will, not working on the car tonight as it is Christmas eve! A few more hours till Christmas! Merry Christmas everyone!