hopefully the airbag light is nothing major. I had mine come on after reconnecting my battery after having it up on jack stands for a few months. It turned out to be some loose connections under the seat. I wiggled the blue connectors and reset the warning light and no issues for the past 2 years. I think the wiring is tight so if you push the seat all the way back too hard it could make it loose.

mine was a simple fix so hopefully yours is too.

 

Yeah, I hope so too! He said it happened after replacing the battery. So maybe the same thing happened?

 

Alrighty, so the seller of the MINI has a set of 15" MINI wheels. They have Michelin X-Ice tires on them. They are brand new, and he paid around $1300 from the dealership. The asking price is 15k. If the airbag light just needs to be reset and isn't an issue, I plan on asking about 14.5k maybe 14k. I think that's a pretty good price? It's above excellent for KBB, 1. because it's in pretty good condition from the pictures. (I may have a friend go look at it.) 2. The wheels on it are a little expensive, and they don't seem to be scuffed or damaged.

I've talked to my boyfriend and he thinks it's a pretty good price.

There are other people interested in the car, but he's holding it solely for me to look at next weekend. He said for $500 he'll throw in the set of extra winter tires.

Pros to the winter tires is I'll put them on during the winter (even though I live in KC) it'd be an added extra so I don't have to worry about the other nice wheels.

 

Try edmunds.com for true market value. I don't have enough information to do it for you.

13k is an appropriate starting point for negotiations. Maybe you haven't been negotiating for long but the first person to drop a number creates an anchor. The natural place that most negotiations end is in the middle.

Later in life you will maybe go to b school and learn about interests vs. positions...but for now if you offer 14k you will end up at 14.5k

Who knows if the guy is reading this thread or not which will already have weakened your negotiating position we know you will go to 14.5k.

Doesn't much matter what he paid the dealer for the rims and tires. That snow setup is worth about 400 dollars.

Ask him what he is willing to do on price..accept the fact that as a younger girl he is already thinking he can work you over...let him create the anchor. I guarantee you whatever number he says is not the lowest he will go.

Come with a fact based offer edmunds, other ads or cars in the area, and then take off for repairs. You haven't even factored in some known repairs yet.

1) a arm bushings all fail at 40k - 750
2) brakes and rotors usually fail at 40k - 500
4) most tires only last between 40-50k - 500
5) the airbag light. - 1500

So I would have no qualms walking up to him and offering 13k.

He may laugh, he may say he has other people interested. Interested means nothing and there are always people "interested" whenever someone asks me about something I am selling.

It's a marketing tactic creating scarcity: limited time offer, limited edition, selling out fast...

Highly effective and emotion based marketing.

Good luck be smart and we are here to support you.

 

Thanks!

This is the answer I was looking for.

Bahaha, if he was reading this, oh man.

Thanks for the tip on the other repairs.
-I know he's had the brakes replaced. Also he said tires are good, rear have more tread.

Yeah, I was thinking of starting at 13k and working up.

 

Still get him to tell you his lowest point. Then offer him 13k...

Brakes- show me a receipt with the mileage when it was done and/or take off the front right wheel so I can measure the pad thickness.

Buy a tire gauge for $10 at autozone 8/32 is a brand new tire. Tires hit their wear bars at 2/32 and will only last about 4k past that.

selling a used car or anything is tough. Finding someone who is interested and actually able to get financing in a bad economy is not easy...creates negotiation strength.

If I can advise you one thing: take your parents with you..this has nothing to do with you being a girl. This has to do with life experience..since ultimately they will be responsible financially, (repairs that may come up, and they are cosignining) it will save you a lot of headache if they feel they did the best they could on price.

Lastly don't be afraid to walk away..I am still not sure I would bite on this one given its so far away and you haven't been able to independently verify the airbag light is not a big deal.

 

I'm sure my boyfriend has a tire gauge.. if not one of his buddies or dad will have one. I'll definitely take that up with me.

He said he's firm on price. And he's sure enough it'll sell because there is a lot of interest in the car. I told him if he's firm on 15k, then I would like a full inspection report by a genuine MINI dealership. Because the airbag light is an issue and it can cost up to $1500 to repair. I'm actually going to have a friend that lives up there look it over for me.

I definitely agree with you about the far away part and airbag light with you. If he doesn't get an inspection I'm either not taking it.. or I'm docking him as much as it may cost in unknown repairs.

 

I've had people be firm on price before and they usually call me 3 days after I buy another car. Interest doesn't translate into sale. Why hold the car for you if he has someone who is already willing to pay 15k? He doesn't know you, what if you are a flake?

I personally wouldn't trust his inspection...no matter where it came from...unless I chose the shop and payed them out of pocket to do the inspection. So that they work for me...protecting my interests not his. Airbag lights don't pop up for no reason they pop up to warn of an issue..big or small I don't know..but there is an issue. He will downplay it.

I just did an edmunds TMV with limited info and the private party value of this car is 12,241...I didn't add many options so 13k for an OUTSTANDING car is appropriate. 15k is too much.
Keep us up to date...

 

Yeah.. I did check too. I'm having a friend check it out for me.

Also, if he doesn't want to pay for an inspection.. I'll just pay for it and have the MINI dealership do it for me.

List of things to look for:
Strut tower mushrooming
Tires
Brakes
Coolant Tank
Oil leaks around the crank seal/gasket? and crank sensor
Bushings on suspension

Anything else I may be missing that can be an issue?

 

Passenger side motor mount for leaking

General operation of all parts (does sunroof open and close without binding)

Rust underneath the door sill is a common issue on these cars

Cracks in the windshield (i guess people here have been through a few)

Rattling at idle (near timing chain)

Uneven tire wear

Power steering pump

Low speed fan to see that it actually turns on (resistor issue)

Read the stock issues thread

 

Isn't the rust a recall / warranty issue?
-- I called MINI and they said I'm good to go on ALL recall issues.

Thanks for the list, I knew about most of these and have them written down, just didn't write them in my post.

 

Sure is ONCE it permeates and puts a hole through the car...until then it's a consumer issue. I haven't looked in to it that much...but it's in the FAQs.

 

Ah, okay. That's what I thought.

 

JUST BE SURE NOT TO LET HIM DOWNPLAY the airbag light.
they can be reset, but I bet 99% it will be back...on facelift gen1 mini's it is about a $1500 fix...the lower seat cushion on the pax side is replaced...the weight sensor is faulity. Very common issue on "facelift"gen1 cars with the 2 stage airbags.
Most other stuff, like brakes...heck could have been done right, or just fast and cheap with cheap pads....so I would not pay extra.
car sounds well loved, but the lack of exaust tips sounds ,ore like it had a custom/aftermarket exaust that was removed/sold to return car to stock to get back some $$. Look closely for signs of modding undone and abuse/racing/autox.

 

That car also has the bumper light mod on the rear...2005+ cars had a plastic plug where that car has a red lens...may/maynot be hooked up.
on earlier cars it was a backup light (many complained it was too dim)....but on 2005, the rear lights were redesigned, and the backups were built into the rear lights like 99% of other cars.

 

The rear light is hooked up. The interior has the switch and if it didn't have the rear fog hooked up then the switch wouldn't be there.

The car is very well loved. He hand washed it 2-3 times a week and leather conditioned the seats so they stay in great condition.

He plans to get the airbag light checked out tomorrow. I'll talk to him tonight about giving me a genuine report. I assume the dealership will give him a diagnosis report..

What are some signs of modding/racing/autox...

He told me he didn't modify this car because he has other cars for that, but ya never know.. he could easily be bs-ing.

 

Have you actually seen this car in person now? Cars are always "loved" by the previous owner..you will have to judge for yourself how much of the story is legitimate. Hard for any of us to say over the Internet. Not too many owners admit to thrashing a car..even my "babied" GTI saw redline on almost every outing. My policy? If it was going to break...I wanted it breaking under warranty..so from mile 2,000 to mile 68,000 I drove it hard. It still got washed and waxed every month...but it doesn't mean I babied it by any means. It got serviced when it needed servicing and I took care of the interior and exterior. The worry that people have is that you could be buying into someone else's problems..purchasing a vehicle that is very receptive to mods, has signs of modifications...be they big or small indicates to me that this person...did in fact mod the car.

Either way it looks like a great car...now figure out what its worth...btw the bank can stop you from buying a car if they think it's not worth what they have into it...mods (wheels, pulleys etc.) .do not add value and the person underwriting the loan would likely be hard to convince otherwise.

 

I have not been able to go to see the car because of my school and work schedule.
I don't think any car has been "babied" unless it was driven by a 70 year old woman. Also, I'm pretty sure most cars have seen redline. It's just how it is.

If I am not mistaken.. most cars do not have problems as long as they have a regular maintenance done.. I plan on giving it a GOOD look over while I'm there and I can always back out of the deal.

Plus any car has the risk of buying into someone else's problems.. That's what you get for buying a used car over a new car. Even new cars have issues.

I honestly believe this guy is pretty genuine considering he enjoys cars and I do not think he would like buying someone else's problems at a hefty price tag.

BTW, I have the money in hand. There wasn't an issue with that.

 

MINIs have problems straight out of the box without any level of abuse..

When I drive my car sometimes I drive pretty responsibly..but I'll wind it out on occasion.. I never have bounced off the rev limiter though. When the girlfriend drives it she shifts at 5,000 RPMs maximum. So.. the 70 year old comment is not truly valid. Someone who bounces a car off the rev limiter - shifts hard, launches the car all the time is going to put a lot more wear and tear on the car vs. someone who drives spirited but responsibly.

Have you asked why he is selling it?

I still take issue with the price on this car...but ultimately the price of a car is how much a buyer is willing to pay. Please make sure he has a clear title in hand..or meet him at the bank that holds the lien so you can pay it off right away vs..waiting for him to make the payoff. If not its important to get the payoff letter and cut a separate check to the bank for that amount.

Just as an FYI my friend just bought a 2009 at a mini dealer with a cpo warranty for 19,000.

At the end of the day -- you seem pretty set on buying this car.. and well the old saying goes : people don't want advice they just want someone to validate their decision... so go for it.

 

Exactly.. I know some of the issues that may arrise when I own the car. As long as I know what to do, I am fine with owning the car.

Yes, not bouncing off the rev limiter is good.. but it's there for a reason.
My boyfriend will test drive it... And he'll help me look it over.

Yes, I have asked. He needs a 4-door vehicle for his work. He will have the title that day.

--I'm set on the car because I cannot find a car in this kind of condition with only 2 owners that has been well taken care of near me.. I still have to drive to get this car. I am listening to the advice so I can make sure I want this car. It's hard to negotiate the price because my bank will not give me cash, so I'm a little SOL on that.

 

Drive up there with a check for 13,500 and 1,500 in cash in your pocket that gives you negotiating leverage. Or tell the guy -- you will take the car for 14,000 -- yay or nay and you will be there on X date with a bank check. Its what i did -- they wanted 9,750 -- i told them 8,500 we settled on 8,750 -- i sent a 500 deposit via paypal and showed up on a plane 3 weeks later.

 

This video gives a good explanation on how to check for tower damage;

 

Will do.

Thanks!