My repair will take longer, I'm going to replace all the belt drive parts for good measure, do a header, make an exhaust, make some coilovers, etc. I wanna pull it back out as a beeeeast.

I'm also gonna pull the sc, change the oil, have a friend port it, change the knock sensor. Gonna do some maintenance to it too.

 

Well as promised I wanted to provide an update on my process of elimination. Having the limp mode issue, and I have replaced two of the three common culprits (belt and bypass valve). The belt tensioner is still good, and the belt was replaced with a Craig's racing quality belt. The bypass valve (BPV) is a Detroit Tuned part, and I was happy to replace my old BPV as the spring seemed a little 'fluid' while it returned to the closed position. I have an ALTA 0% Crank pulley pending installation, which I hope to get on this weekend if weather permits me to do so. So far the car is still reacting the same to gradual acceleration 'normal' driving inputs, just can't get on it. I am smelling a rubber like burning smell under the hood, the belt is spinning fine at idle, and honestly the balancer seems to appear intact. However, as I am understanding this situation, the balancer can still spin inside itself while 'looking ok'. Lets hope the balancer is it. I would like to close this chapter out and move on to other repair/wear items.

 

I contemplated the DT ByPass Valve, but the one I have doesn't flutter too bad. Hope everything works out well for you.

 

Good show,.. I like to do things in the same fashion, replace all the belt drive parts and be done with it.

I was pricing out ATI, Gates Tensioner, SC Pulley, both pulley tools. The NGK Plugs (one step coldrr) and belts are cheaper at NAPA for me.

I'm glad my brakes are holding out,.. I think this will most likely be the next thing I do.

 

Brakes are EAAAAAAASY!!!!! Already did mine.

 

Sweet, ya I didn't think it would be hard, it's just that I want to upgrade while I'm there, things like SS Lines, and I'm still debating about going BBK. It's not a place that I want to cut corners or cheap out.

 

Ok, I wish I was coming back to you all with good news. Replaced belt, crank pulley, and bypass valve. Intake is clean, also cleaned maf sensor. Normal inputs: car drives fine, even when you press the gas pedal about half way and the car will rev out through first and second...and so on, BUT if you floor it, it will sputter through the rpms, and kick the car into the mis-firing 'limp mode' where the check engine light (CEL) blinks and illuminates solid, as well as illuminating the traction/stability control light. I've gone throughout the hoses, no leaks that I can see or hear. I am about at my wits end with this thing...any advice ANYONE, SOMEONE PLEASE give me some reasonable expiration for this. The only thing that I know I haven't had a chance to check/replace is the profile gasket at the intake and the supercharger.
If the engine can rev out under 1/2 +/- total throttle input, but struggles when WOT inputs are made, could this be injector related? I've replaced the plugs, but not the wires or coil pack...however in consideration of those, these symptoms don't make sense (to me at least).

I would be most appreciative of any feedback/direction.

 

Pull the codes. Even if you don't have a code reader, many autoparts places will pull the for you for free. Call your local Napa or O'Riely's and ask.

Hope you can get it properly diagnosed and running right soon.

 

Almost sounds like a bad tps or map sensor

 

Pulled the codes: p0302 cyl 2 mis fire, and p0313 misfire detected with low fuel. Today I changed the profile gasket and went through all the intake connections for leaks. Still throwing the codes, so I would suspect that MCS5 is on to something. Is the tips built into the throttle body? Also, is the map sensor is located on the bracket that's mounted above the thermostat housing? Any idea of cost on these two parts? Kinda tired of throwing parts at this car...but if someone has had the same issue and resolved it this way I will be willing to go for it...somewhat desperate right now- the car is sitting more than its being driven, which isn't much fun as most in my position might know. Thanks again all, and my apologies to the person who's thread I've hi-jacked.

 

I'm not sure if the tps actually exists in a drive by wire system - it's the first car I've ever had with it. A bad map sensor will cause a car to fall on it's face under boost. You haven't had a knock sensor code have you? That doesn't fall on it's face per day but you can feel the timing has backed off DRASTICALLY. I only know because my car runs poorly when it's hot outside and I didn't want to take the SC off to change it. Now that mind is down (still, because I'm lazy and have another car) I am going to do it while I port the sc.

 

Thanks MCS5, no knock codes. I'll see what I can do about getting a new maf sensor and report back again. I purchased this car to start autocrossing it, and had long term anticipation to spec it out per scca/nasa standards. I am beginning to understand how finicky these older Minis can be, and am thinking I need to reconsider.

 

I'm planning in doing the same...id love to do Pdx/hill climb/ time trials. Ever since I sold my Subaru, I miss doing rally and I'm itching to get this thing in a track. Now that I don't have to drive it daily, it seem much more possible. This winter I plan to go over everything.

 

Broke this red clip

http://instagram.com/p/hvtO-WtySN/

Besides mini, where can I get one?? It holds the breather tube into the supercharger..

 

Wonder if the pulley is broken? Remove the belt..

http://instagram.com/p/huLt51NyR-/

Yep.

 

Finally installed that pesky 17% pulley while I was doing the crank pulley and knock sensor.

http://instagram.com/p/hud_wZtyep/

 

Back on all four wheels!!!!!

http://instagram.com/p/h8srxKtyct/