Long story short, I've got a detroit tuned tensioner stop and after replacing my fan relay the other day I gave a quick look-see in the belt vicinity to notice the cable has pulled clean out of the its crimped end on the tensioner stop.

My tensioner isn't bouncing around and no noise present. I haven't removed the tensioner damper yet to see if it is blown or not but so far no snapped belt or other signs of issues other than the cleanly pulled apart cable.

So this got me searching, has anyone tried to put a Mercedes belt damper on our cars??

example:
http://www.autocarspare.com/catalog/...112000414.html

Thoughts? Anyone ever try fitting one before?

 

Well, little update. I've contacted my buddy at the benz dealer. Being as how I used to be a Merc tech I've got a source in the parts dept who is helping me do a little research.
Here's what I've found so far:
Stock MINI damper Made by Stabilus model: Stab-O-shoc Can google their webpage and bring up Motion Dampers. You'll find 800N to 9000N dampers. I would believe we have a 9000N model as the 800N models seem mostly for closing cabinet doors or light duty applications, where our belt tensioner would seem to be more of a heavy duty application.

Specs on stock:
6" fully compressed, 9" fully extended (we all know the fully extended is WAY too much for our cars as this will allow the tensioner to slam into the harmonic damper pulley.
Body of shock is 1/2" diameter measuring roughly 4 3/4".
Normal resting position of shock installed in vehicle is roughly 1" extension or 7" total.
Bolt hole size will fit 5/16 drill bit.

From what my Merc parts source has found, there are 3 different belt dampers for various years/engines of Mercedes. Stabilus seems to be the OEM supplier of these dampers. Roughly 6-7" length.

Will be getting more info as it comes and then decide on a suitable replacement for my MINI. I removed my damper today and am happy to find that the shock is not totally blown, however it does seem a little weak on compression. If the new replacement shock does not have the correct size bolt holes I will either consider drilling out larger holes, or replacing with the OE Mini's rubber bushings, or simply machining new bushings for it altogether.

Will keep the forum updated with what I find and how it works out.

 

I am very interested in this as I wouldn't have to replace the whole assembly anymore wasting money and materials.

 

Any word on the mercedes damper fitting the mini?

 

Interested on this.

 

Here's the deal so far. The mercedes damper shock comes up slightly too long.

No biggie though right? I'm a mechanical engineer with access to a full machine shop so all I need to do is measure the dimensions of the tensioner along with the position of 2 of the furthest left bolt holes for mounting the tensioner and make a bracket to bolt the new damper to, which obviously would be slightly further out than the mounting location of the MINI's damper. This would all take place on the left side or backmost (rearward) part of the engine/tensioner.

Anyways, I've been frantically PMing anyone and everyone on this forum who has posted threads about replacing their tensioner anytime recently to see if ANYONE STILL HAS A TENSIONER LYING AROUND. Hint Hint.

So here's my PSA. Do everyone a favor, and if someone has a broken or used tensioner lying around, PM ME! I will pay to have it shipped to me and the sooner I can get my hands on one, the sooner I can fabricate a simple bracket to mount the Mercedes damper.

I would fabricate batches of about 20 of these at a time is my plan. The Mercedes damper also has different sized bolt holes for its bushings. We all know the bushings to be garbage anyways, so I'm planning on fabricating either brass bushings or poly bushings for the mounting holes as well. I'm thinking about selling these as a minimal fee of about $15-$20. Then all someone would have to do would be go out and buy the mercedes damper shock (can be sourced about the internet for $40-$50) and bolt it in.

This would bring a total in the $60-70 range which is about half the cost of a tensioner assembly.



But as of right now I'm at a screetching Halt because I can't seem to get my hands or any responses from anyone about sourcing a used tensioner. Heck, I could even mail it back to someone after I'm done prototyping my bracket.

I know I could take my tensioner assembly off my car and use it but then I'd be down a car and that's not going to work well at my Condo in the city where I can't work on my car in the street. Plus its my only source of transportation so that idea is shot. I could theoretically buy a new tensioner and use that as well but that defeats the whole purpose now doesn't it?

 

Ok, I did something similar...

I purchased a Stabilus damper from Napa(I also saw the same part stocked in the parts isle at Autozone with the hatch shocks (it is listed as a damper, meaning when you pull the rod out it's very difficult, vs shocks being hard to press the rod into the shock body) It is part number 819-3406 and I believe it's for a Toyota Tundra for 35 bucks or so. The mounting holes are flat, and one of the ends mounting holes is off to the side.

The body is slightly larger than the stock damper (good thing) but it was about 1/8 inch too long to install when fully compressed.

So, I used a dremel to enlogate the angled hole to make the mounting point shorter, and then hack sawed off the bushings and ends from the stock damper to space the new damper away from the assembly. You need to do this or something similar so it cleares the bolts/etc of the tensioner assembly like the stock one does. I placed the angled end of the damper in the rearward most hole.

I Just test drove it a few minutes ago. No more tensioner rattle!! I will update as to the longevity of this fix, and will answer any questions that I can.

I like eric's idea a bit more, since the Mercedes unit uses mounting holes with bushings similar to our own, versus the flat plane holes in my Tundra damper. Not sure how long the bushings as 'spacers' will last, although it did snug up nicely.

This is the best I could come up with as to what the unit looks like, and the bolts go straight through the 0 and P with the bushings that were hacked off of the old damper between the new damper and the tensioner. 0===---P

Sorry Eric, I'd send you a used tensioner but I breathed new life into mine and hope it works. If not, I will be one of your first 'customers'!

Steve

 

I have a used one laying around; I do want it back eventually.

 

I just stumbled across this thread. Any update on if these dampers have worked out for you guys?
I'm trying to do the same thing. I can't justify spending $75 bucks minimum for the whole assembly when I only need the strut.

Thanks.

 

Want a less maintenance & risk-free tensioner? Check this link & try calling Alta:

http://98.158.194.207/forums/drivetr...testers-2.html

 

I'm not a fan of the ''Stiffy''. In fact, I think the stiffy all together is $80 poorly spent. But that's just my 2 cents.

Here's what I've come upon, http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...4%20200%200214

URO Damper, only $16 and only 1/2" longer than our stock tensioner fully compressed. But there lies the problem. This damper is a full inch diameter cylinder compared with our wimpy 1/2" thick stockers.

So the 2 problems is that a very simple bracket would need to be fabricated to extend the bolting location of this shock to the existing tensioner, and about a 1/4" washer would be needed between the damper and the tensioner due to the extra girth in the body of the cylinder.

These are VERY small issues that should be easily remedied by a basic bracket. I've fabbed up my own bracket but I'm having troubles getting someone to mass produce them for me at a reasonable price. Anyways, there's the link to the damper, I would invite anyone to spend the $16 and give it a try with bracket ideas.

As for the stiffy, I know the car's of yesteryear all had screw type tensioner's that were set it and forget it but I would also like to believe that there is a reason those don't show up on the car's of today. Better engineering likely shows that sudden changes in drag on the belt calls for changes in the pressure applied to the belt to prevent skipping or belt hop. Hence a constantly adjusting spring loaded tensioner that MINI manufactured for our vehicles. The purpose of the damper is to dampen the spring's oscillations as an underdamped spring would likely add to belt hop/skipping. The stock dampers are very likely underdamped as they so commonly blow out at low mileage.

The damper that I have linked is a solid unit that Mercedes used across their range of vehicles for the better part of 20 years. My guess is one of these will last a lifetime in the MINI. It is dampened in both compression and tension without being "pressurized".


As for a bracket. The back bolt of the OEM damper is nearest the back of the block. There is PLENTY of room back there for a little 1/2 inch extension. Add to that, the bolt hole for the damper is accessible from both the front of the damper (facing the RF wheel) and the backside of the damper (facing the oil filter). So fabricating a bracket could be bolted to the tensioner either on the front side or back side.

I've made an AutoCAD projection of a bracket that would work, however, like I stated long windedly ago, I'm struggling to find a machinist that will produce a couple handful's of these for our MINI marketplace.

I invite anyone else to give it a whirl, along with Alta or WAY or Detroit Tuned, etc etc etc.

 

I'm new at all this but does it ever need to go to full extension? if not would this maybe work. Looks like it has free ends as well http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-s.../gs6-15-80-120

 

OldGameFreaK,
I don't believe that will work. The problem is those are lifts, or a pressurized shock.
That shock will want to always fully extend. Therefore adding even more tension force onto the serpentine belt than what the spring along is adding. This type of shock will only dampen on compression, but not extension.

The Mercedes unit I linked is an actual damper, like the OEM unit. It will dampen in both compression and tension, without being pressurized. Therefore, whatever position it is in, it will want to remain in unless it is pushed or pulled. I have AutoCAD drawings of a very simple bolt on bracket that would fit the Mercedes damper to the OEM tensioner, just need someone to step forward with capabilities to machine and produce.

I'm still awaiting a response from my lone contact that runs a machine shop. I'm going to contact detroit tuned and way to see if they would have any interest in producing a bracket to fit the Benz damper as well.

 

If not DT try the guys at craven speed

 

I do not know if any one is still working on the bracket issue but out here in San Diego, Ca. I have quite a few friends in the fabricating industry that would be able to do the job for a reasonable price. I would only need the dimensions for the bracket. I do agree that the damper is a bit too small for the application. I think it is also funny how the OEM damper is used for hood and or bonnet props. My opinion on the fixed ALTA setup is:
1. You need to manually adjust the belt
2. You might put undue stress on the bearings and belt which in turn may cause more significant damage
3. It has been tested and proven that the damper is more effective in the belt tension than using a fixed application

 

Any updates?

 

Erik, any updates on this? Did the Mercedes damper and braket work? If so, it sounds like this is a better option than going with a new tensioner assembly. Can you post a picture of bracket assembly as well? Thanks for all the above info.

 

old thread...
But you can buy the "GATES" damper...the OEM with the "MINI" logo ground off for" Price: $76.31 "Gates 38404 Belt Tensioner
on amazon....
Why reinvent the wheel....replace it all!!

 

Tracking the gates replacement. What's the lifespan of the gates unit?

 

The Alta design works just fine. New tensioner designs in new cars like the current Subarus are all fixed. They just pair em w/ stretch fit belts. If you could find stretch fit equivalents to our stock 6PK1388 or shorter (for reduced pulleys), you won't have to worry about periodic manual tightening & damping anymore.
If you opt for this mod, make sure you pair it w/ a harmonic damper (crank pulley). There's so much discussion/debate on those lightened ones- the benefits & the potential damage they might cause. I opted for an ATI when my stock 1 crumbled which happened way before I opted for the Alta adjustable tensioner. Bonuses of the Alta? You'll have no more worries about the consequences of snapped belts & unusual noises/chirps from your tensioner anymore. Manual adjustments, if/when needed, take only a few minutes.
The choice is, of course, yours to make.

 

Should be the same as the OEM...they are identical...come from the same casting..just the LOGO is ground off...
It is refereed to as "gray market" meaning it came from the orgional maker...then Gates who stocks and markets it......rather then to MINI....
many parts are sold this way....