I picked up eBay sensors for all four corners under $100.

Visual inspection on sensors doesn't mean much. It is the internal electronics that go bad.

 

.

 

My recently purchased Mini has had a trifecta as well, I just removed the sensors and cleaned em'. Instantly gone and haven't seen it since.

It really depends on the condition of them.

 

They are all over eBay. IIRC from when I had the trifecta problem, there is a different sensor for the front and rear, but they work for both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle... So a rear sensor will work for both sides on the rear of the Mini.

Front:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-QUALITY-Front-ABS-Wheel-Speed-Sensor-fits-02-06-MINI-Cooper-34526756384-/221213988254?fits=Model%3ACooper&hash=item338161959e&vxp=mtr
Rear:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEST-QUALITY-Rear-ABS-Wheel-Speed-Sensor-fits-02-06-MINI-Cooper-34526756385-/221213988331?fits=Model%3ACooper&hash=item33816195eb&vxp=mtr
Hope this helps.

 

hello guys this is something that is picking my brain,

all this lights come on only if I go over 100km but they don't come off if I slow down , i will have shut the car off to resset the light , but one thing i notice is that alternator stops charging after the lights come on.

no light battery charge at 14.5
traction , abs and tire pressure battery charge at 12.5

 

Does it do that all the time and exclusively at when you hit 100KM/h?

I feel like your alternator is going bad. Alternator is much further upstream than any of these sensors. Sensors cannot stop the alternator from charging, unless the ECU has a circuit that regulates the alternator circuit.

Go to a automotive part shop. They can give you a free check on the alternator and battery.

 

It happens all the time around 100
Battery is new, Alternator is a year old. It happen after I replace. The rear hubs. I believe reading about something about that the Alternator talks to the ECM and the ECM to The battery and vise versa.i had the alternator checked but they say it's okay.

 

This happened after replacing the front brake pads and the crank damper. The tire pressure and stability lights just stay on. They wont go out and I cant find any codes with my cheapo reader. I replaced both front wheel speed sensors. No love.
Any ideas?

 

 

there’s a button near the e-brake. Push and hold before starting car, with key in position 2, iirc. Procedure in manual…

And / or install inpa for more…

 

​​​​​​This happens to me consistently when turning slow right except all lights stay on until reset via a scan tool.
Fault appears as front left wheel sensor.
Swapped the sensor with a spare Used one.
Fault remains same. Unlikely 2 sensors with same fault?
Scan tool monitoring in the drive show left front speed drops to zero while doing a slow turn right without stopping.
next step would be to buy a new sensor to confirm I don't have 2 bad sensors? Weird that the sensor works at all stages while driving until in a slow right turn..

Maybe it is the abs unit that receives the info that is at fault.
could it be something in the hub?

Any thoughts....

 

Yes, check the wheel bearings - grab the wheel at 12 & 6, there should be no play. Spin the wheel & there should be no noise.
If a wheel sensor has been drilled out, the drill may have hit the tone ring & damaged it.

 

Or, it could be a broken wire that gets pulled and creates an open circuit when turning hard right, but reconnects when the angle of the wheel is less.

 

Yep, check thats and the connect Pins, those log pins in the socket when installed can get bent.

 

Statstically, what are the chances of my car and a donor car both having front left wheel sensor faults?

 

Not sure anyone has collected that kind of data over the years.

Have you tried switching the left side sensor with the right side sensor? it seems you know that one is working and that would be good check of your left side sensor.

But look at the data you have collected. Is that trace you showed above the same with both sensors? If that is the case, then it shows that they both work until the wheel is turned. And then go back to working where the wheel is straightened out. A better question might be is do these fail in an intermittent fashion like that. I don’t know for sure, but I think, if you do a search, you may find that intermittent issues like this can be trace to something other than a failed sensor.

Check out the above suggestions. Also, do a Google search starting with “North American motoring” and then include in the search parameter variations of the issue you are having. That is a better way to search NAM than using the NAM search engine.

 

I second the idea of swapping the sensors left-to-right and seeing if the fault moves as well. By the way, you can search the site directly from google by prepending or appending your search terms with site:northamericanmotoring.com.

 

ooops wrong thread sorry I digress

 

I couldn't feel any issues with the wheel bearing. Didn't seem to be any wiring issues. Swapped a second donor sensor in an the fault has gone. Was confirmed as 2 faulty sensors.
thanks for the advice.

 

Congrats!

 

I've been down this road a number of times but have a slightly different problem. I have only the DSC and tire pressure warning lights, no ABS light. Can wheel speed sensors be bench tested? Is there a resistance check that can identify a bad sensor? Second, I have a very miniscule amount of play in the front left hub. Normally I wouldn't replace it with this small amount of play, but could this be throwing those two lights without the ABS light?

 

What year MINI?

Maybe asking the obvious, but did you try the tire pressure reset? Not sure, but possibly a low tire pressure warning also triggers a DSC warning but not an ABS warning.

We have an R50 and if the reset button gets bumped while driving it will trigger a low tire pressure warning, without any tires being low. It just takes a full reset to clear it. We don’t have DSC, so don’t know if the 2 are connected.

Maybe someone else can answer about testing the sensor.

Wheel bearing - MINI’s don’t have play in them. Yours is worn. I’d replace it.

 

Replaced the left-front and right-rear ABS sensors along with a “new” SAS and programmed and trifecta ( Abs,Tpms & DSC) went away for good..

 

Now, after a week, the ABS is added and lit up. Could all three lights result from a bad hub? Anyone know what specs are to bench test the sensors?

 

I have cracked new ABS sensor on install. When installing make sure you clean the old out and you use sand paper to clean the hole. Some sensor when you install have a little extra plastic and will need shaved a hair to install.

If you push them in hard,you can crack them.