If I corner my '02 hard it triggers the TPMS light in conjunction with the traction control as stated above. I really have to corner tight though. This usually happens when I pull out of a parking spot too quickly or give it one of those aggressive U-turns.

The lack of wheel speed sensors is actually a bonus in my book. One less thing to put on the laundry list.

 

This blog has been very interesting to read. I have the Trifecta thing going on on my '03S with the P642 error code. Going to tear into it this weekend and look at the wheel speed sensors (when I find where they are). I'm guessing they are obvious. We have 265K on the car so I may just put all new ones on just for gp.

 

Just out of curiosity, do you have manual or auto? How often do you change your oil? and with what brand?

 

Its a 6 speed manual and I change the oil somewhere about every 10K miles with Castrol Synthetic. Also, to update my situation. I cleared the fault codes again for about the 10 time mostly because I was playing with my Blue Tooth OBD adapter to see what it can do and low and behold the fault went away and didn't come back. Drove the car for 1/2 hour no faults. Got home still tore into the car (I hate when problems just disappear on there own because that general means they will come back when they want). Pulled every sensor, visually inspected them for wear and tear or chewed wires, everything looked good. Cleaned all the sensors and reinstalled. Insidently, they all came out really easy, might be a bonus for living down south, things don't rust here like up north. I unscrewed the one bolt and wiggled them side to side with a pair of channel locks and they slid right out. Now I guess its a waiting game to see if it comes back.

 

So far almost a month after finding a lose nut setting on a sensor connection, I have not had anymore issues with the lights showing up. Currently almost 170,000 miles and changing oil around every 3 - 6000 miles.

 

What loose nut are you referring to, just in case I could be lucky?

After starting up the car the ABS and Traction light stay on until I start moving forward where the lights turn off. When I start to approach higher(60+mph) speeds then all three lights come on.

Help appreciated.

2006 R52 Manual

 

Mine was not loose in that it just wasn't tightened it was loose in that it was bouncing around not attached to anything. About a half inch but but not sure whether it was dislodged due to all the work around the tires but we couldn't find anywhere anything was missing or if it was lost during the previous transmission rebuild, or clutch rebuild. However it was found lodged in the area where the wheel sensor connects. Sorry I don't have a precise answer but several months later everything continues to function completely normal! Haven't had issues since! Good luck and let me know if you have further questions.

 

Just had the AC compressor replaced on my 03 and then just did ball joints and control arm bushings. Somewhere along the line the ABS Sensor on the right side came out of the clip on the INSIDE of the fender. This allowed the wire to get chewed through by the crank pulley. Only took between 100 and 200 miles.

 

Ouch... When I had my fender liner out, I noticed previous owner had zip-tied mine to the frame rail.... Wonder if that's common, and he had the same problem at one time?

 

Yep; been there, done that.

 

Mine started doing this around winter time and it stays on about 95 percent of time. It ramdomly goes off and comes back on.

I ordered 4 wheel sensors from eBay.

I am thinking it may be related to living in rust belt. Will report back post install.

 

Hate to bring up a dead thread but I need some help too. my mini threw the abs, low tire pressure and the tpms. they will not go off except the low tire pressure and it comes on after driving about 5 feet. the bad thing is there is a very loud roaring sound coming from the front passenger side wheel. I noticed a few things. The first thing is the symptoms show its a wheel hub, The second is the rotor doesn't spin every good and I wonder if it's causing the brake pads to drag constantly. over the past week it has gotten worse and extremely loud. I can barely hear the radio. Any help would be great.

 

Geez.....nothin' personal but........what on earth are you doing driving it that way??!! Not only do you put yourself and those who ride with you at risk should something happen while driving, you put others at risk as well. How would you feel if you had an accident and hurt or killed someone?

Do NOT drive that car until it's looked at by a pro. Period. It could be bad bearings, bad brakes, or any number of other things, all of which are safety hazards. And at the very least, delaying having it looked at and repaired when symptoms first appeared may have cost you double, quadruple or more to repair it.

 

I don't encourage anyone to go buy parts till they're sure of diagnosis. I'm also new to MINI, so your continue research.

My theory is wheel bearing is gone. It's a sealed unit that needs to be replaced if its faulty.

It's plausible that the wheel not rotating properly trips the TPMS, and all your other lights, and/or the sensor got chewed up along the way.

I would remove the wheel, and see if the rotor spins freely. You could remove the caliper too (don't leave it to hang from its hose), see if that has anything to do with it (I doubt it). Inspect CV Joints while you're there. Make sure axel is not sliding back n forth on its splines through the hole in the center of the hub.

It may be easier to do the following with the road wheel on the car, but pulling in and out, up and down, it should not move. It should be firmly on one plane, not be able to rock around, and only be able to rotate.

Ya, I bet its the wheel bearing / hub. Here's a picture of it.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C...heel_Bearings/

 

I wonder how many times the car would spin around if one of the front wheels seized/locked up at say 60 miles per hour?

 

Sounds like bad unit bearing/hub.

Jack up the side you can hear the noise coming from, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock position and wiggle to see if there is a play. Try on the other side to have negative control.

But judging from having had a unit bearing problem, yours sure do sound like one.

 

Several. Or it might just shoot off the road and into a tree. Or shoot off the other way and into the path of a semi. Or take out a group of children walking to school.

 

Ya,.. I was betting you could get 180 degrees for every 20 mph, LOL

 

Just so everyone knows I didn't kill any kids. I parked it til the part came in which was today. I bought a wheel bearing and a new caliper. I went with what I thought it was and put the wheel bearing on first. It was very easy. I put it on and no more noises and the all the lights went off.

 

well i thought i fixed it. the roaring is gone but the codes are back so I guess I'm going to put the caliper on tomorrow and see how that goes. other than that I'm stumped.

 

What is up with the brake caliper? Does it leak, drag, make noise??

I don't follow the logic of why the caliper would need to be replaced. Seems you'd know if something was funky with the caliper that's on there, since you just replaced the hub. (by the way, glad the noise is gone.)

I'm stumped too, but I have a hunch. If it were me, I'd take it to have the codes read, and report those back to the forum. Honestly I believe that an oscilloscope is needed to test a wheel speed sensor; but maybe the codes could help. -Getting codes read is never a bad idea (I've heard autoparts stores will do it for free).

-I'm just thinking that if you have a new caliper, and it turns out that you need a wheel speed sensor, maybe you could exchange parts and save yourself some money.

 

Oh, I see now. Well, when you put in the new hub, didn't it prove out to be that the bad wheel bearing in the hub was what was causing it to not spin freely?

I dunno... just trying to be helpful.

 

Yeah. I'm not putting the caliper on now. Not yet anyways. The wheel speed sensor looks pretty good. I think the end that goes into the wheels hub is rough. What do y'all think?

 

Yeah all the Noises are gone but the lights are still on. I pulled the wheel sensor out and it looked ok I guess. I might replace it too. It's not cheap though

 

If it were me, I'd learn how to test it before just throwing parts at it.

On the other hand, I think I saw a wheel speed sensor for real cheap, around $30 bucks I think at ECStuning.com. Depending on the cost of testing the one you have, that could be cheaper. For me I'd rather 'know' that I was buying the right part, and spend more for the VDO, or original MINI brand that would hopefully last longer.

Assuming you've read all the posts in this thread and others.... You've already set tire pressures? Really I'd pull the codes next to see if that is telling in any way.

Any chance that your bad wheel bearing caused the tire to wear unevenly, flat spot or be out of round? How's your alignment?