R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 How are the Gen 1's holding up

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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #101  
carlitosway's Avatar
carlitosway
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I have a 2003 with 95k. the only issue right now is the small leak from the oil pan.
Runs like a champ!!!
Previous issues at 62k (replaced all the parts):
1.-assembly and motor windows left and right
2.-fix power steering pump due to a leak
3.-mushroom issue, replaced with IE Plates.
4.-Right side shaft replaced due to leaking boot.
5.- replace the harmonic balancer and belt tensioner.
 

Last edited by carlitosway; Mar 1, 2013 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 01:30 AM
  #102  
rustyeuro's Avatar
rustyeuro
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just rolled over 129,000 miles yesterday
recent repairs
passenger CV axle (bad joint)
some trim pieces
oil and coolant flush
needs a passenger rear wheel bearing now due to some issues i had when i replaced the rotors.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #103  
Guuyuk's Avatar
Guuyuk
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: San Antonio TX
2003 R53 with 161,000 miles. I've been running into quite a few problems recently.
Power steering pump is out (still drivable but a minor pain in parking lots).
Had to replace the shock tower tops on the front due to mushrooming and cracking.
Starter is making occasional screeching noises (not consistent so still trying to figure out what’s happening there.
Headliner has decided to come off. Fortunately it still has lots of attachment points with the lights and other pieces attached to the roof, so it's not falling in my face.
Replaced my third radiator catch tank for a cracked seal at the seam.
Check Engine Soon light (vacuum leak according to the code), no idea where it's happening.
Driver's seatback won't recline at all or engage in any position. The seatback goes forward when you get out of the seat.
Other stuff:
Leaking oil pan thanks to *%$%* oil change place that munged up the threads on the drain plug. Trying to save money to get a new oil pan+replacement labor.
Supercharger starting to make funny noises.

Other than that, it's still running OK.

UPDATE: Now at 192k miles. Check engine soon light was the original gas cap gaskets finally went out, replaced gas cap and all is well.
Got the oil pan replaced, which then lead to leaks around the oil pump. Got those fixed and now it's not acting British (not marking it's territory )
Starter still making the occasional noises, but nothing worse.
Blower motor for the heater/AC started making rattling noises and when the fan runs it speeds up and slows down randomly (as in 1 or two seconds between change in speed). Finally went out today, so I'll see if I can find instructions on replacing it myself (don't want to pay for $600 labor to get into the dashboard.
Got the header out, bought $20 worth of header cloth at a fabric store and redid the header. Good as new for just a couple of hours of labor.
Still have a small water leak, although not around the tank where expected. It's not dropping fluid on the ground so this one is hard to track down.
 

Last edited by Guuyuk; Apr 7, 2015 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Update
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:28 AM
  #104  
submitaweasel's Avatar
submitaweasel
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From: LOLhio
48k on the 06 R53. Nothing major to report. I've got a feeling the OEM lower mount is on its way out so a BSH street mount is coming soon. Also getting a DT BPV soon...because I want one
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #105  
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joe_bfstplk
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From: Mount Doom, Mordor
Originally Posted by submitaweasel
48k on the 06 R53. Nothing major to report. I've got a feeling the OEM lower mount is on its way out so a BSH street mount is coming soon. Also getting a DT BPV soon...because I want one
Re: the BSH--be prepared to endure a few weeks of noise, vibration, and harshness until the mount's polyurethane settles in. After that, it's great.

If you're crafty and have tools and whatnot, you can rebuild the stock mount with 3M windshield adhesive, which is polyurethane in a caulk tube. I did my upper mount (the one that bolts to the side of the shock tower, not the fluid-filled one) with it, since nobody offers a poly replacement for that one on the '03 model, and it really firms up the throttle response and eliminates engine rocking.

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 01:31 PM
  #106  
kazlot's Avatar
kazlot
4th Gear
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
How are the Gen 1's holding up

Originally Posted by joe_bfstplk
If you're crafty and have tools and what ot, you can rebuild the stock mount with 3M windshield adhesive, which is polyurethane in a caulk tube. I did my upper mount (the one that bolts to the side of the shock tower, not the fluid-filled one) with it, since nobody offers a poly replacement for that one on the '03 model, and it really firms up the throttle response and eliminates engine rocking.
On my '06 the lower stock mount was done as you describe and as far as I'm concerned it's the answer for those that want better than stock with zero vibrations.

Hope this helps...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #107  
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joe_bfstplk
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From: Mount Doom, Mordor
Originally Posted by kazlot
On my '06 the lower stock mount was done as you describe and as far as I'm concerned it's the answer for those that want better than stock with zero vibrations.

Hope this helps...
I was able to score a bad upper mount, lower mount, and trans mount from my mechanic. One of these weekends I'm going to have a polyurethane mount remanufacturing party. I already have a BSH lower mount and my home-rebuilt upper mount, so the trans mount is next for the poly-upgradathane treatment. In addition, I'll have spares for the others....

C ya,
Dutch
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #108  
submitaweasel's Avatar
submitaweasel
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From: LOLhio
Originally Posted by joe_bfstplk

Re: the BSH--be prepared to endure a few weeks of noise, vibration, and harshness until the mount's polyurethane settles in. After that, it's great.

If you're crafty and have tools and whatnot, you can rebuild the stock mount with 3M windshield adhesive, which is polyurethane in a caulk tube. I did my upper mount (the one that bolts to the side of the shock tower, not the fluid-filled one) with it, since nobody offers a poly replacement for that one on the '03 model, and it really firms up the throttle response and eliminates engine rocking.

HTH!

C ya,
Dutch
I dont have a problem with NVH so I think I can endure this "break in" period you describe
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #109  
BRG's Avatar
BRG
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From: Ontario, Canada
Just so happens my 05 MCS "facelift" is in the shop with 136Km

November 2012 Work being completed
- Clutch conversion to solid flywheel
- rotors + pads + flush
- hand brake cable ( left rear seized )
- thermostat + housing ( plastic cracks overtime )
- coolant tank + flush ( tank leaks )
- waterpump ...precaution
- Supercharger, remove, re-fill...precaution
- new spark plugs
- oil pan gasket ( third one )
- serpentine belt

November 2011 Work Completed
- shifter cables ...( seized )
- Lower steering link ...( would not return to center )
- tie rods and alignment... ( seized adjustment )
- rust warranty work, hatch + doors... ( three months at dealership $0.00 )
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:31 PM
  #110  
joe_bfstplk's Avatar
joe_bfstplk
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From: Mount Doom, Mordor
Originally Posted by submitaweasel
I dont have a problem with NVH so I think I can endure this "break in" period you describe
Just so you know, it will find *every* rattle in your dashboard, doors, and (if applicable) sunroof.

C ya,
Dutch
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 04:50 AM
  #111  
submitaweasel's Avatar
submitaweasel
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From: LOLhio
Originally Posted by joe_bfstplk

Just so you know, it will find *every* rattle in your dashboard, doors, and (if applicable) sunroof.

C ya,
Dutch
thanks for the head's up. I believe the radio can fix that
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #112  
smoke05S's Avatar
smoke05S
4th Gear
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 485
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From: So CAL
The 05 MCS did not want to be traded so 1 block from the dealer it self destructed at 65K miles. I think it was a bad alternator. Not sure since it overheated, the power steering went out and it went into limp home mode with the check engine light on. Except for a clutch that went out at 14K miles it was very reliable up until that point. Needless to say we got the extanded warranty on the new one.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #113  
submitaweasel's Avatar
submitaweasel
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From: LOLhio
Originally Posted by smoke05S
The 05 MCS did not want to be traded so 1 block from the dealer it self destructed at 65K miles. I think it was a bad alternator. Not sure since it overheated, the power steering went out and it went into limp home mode with the check engine light on. Except for a clutch that went out at 14K miles it was very reliable up until that point. Needless to say we got the extanded warranty on the new one.
Harmonic balancer probably. Mileage and symptoms point to that.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #114  
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DaCrema
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Metro Washington D. C.
06 mc

I've put something a little over 93k miles on my MINI. I needed an airbag sensor for the passenger seat after 55-60k miles. That is the only item that was not ware related. I replaced the front suspension bushings at 88k miles and did the PS hoses that were starting to leak at the same time. It has gone through two motor mounts. Clutch still strong. The car is a daily driver - about 100 miles a week. I do not go on as many trips in it as we have a class C camper now or a BMW 325 to drive instead.
This is my second MC. The first was an early 03 that I traded for this car at 70k miles.
I sometimes think of trading it in but there is nothing out there that would fill the same role and be as fun to drive. If my RVing takes me west, I might get a Jeep (again).

 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #115  
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putttn
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From: Spokane
I'm on my 3re & 4th Mini Cooper. I love them but wouldn't want the new body style because I feel the front end is really ugly. Since I owned a auto dealership I've owned/driven just about anything you can imagine. In my opinion, there are only a few cars that have been really fun to drive. The Porsche 356 models were a blast, TR3's and the R53 Mini Coopers. They aren't the fastest but they require the driver to be a big part of the "equation" in getting the most out of the available performance, hence great enjoyment. The bottom end of our little engines seem to be holding up really well and respond well to modding efforts. This car may end up as a classic at some point.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 02:54 PM
  #116  
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HBAlameda
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Alameda, CA
If you'd asked me this last week the answer would have been different, but at 99,800 miles, our mechanic tells us that odd noise from our 2005 justacooper 5-speed is the (supposedly more durable Getrag) transmission about to go blorf. Ugh, ugh, ugh. But the first 99,700 miles (original owner) were surprisingly not much trouble, other than about two or three thermostat housings and a bit of an appetite for Mobil One. It doesn't even rattle as much as its supposed to. But this transmission, ugh, ugh ugh.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #117  
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grussell
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Denver, CO
02 Coop with 109k. Bought it 2 months ago for a 70 mile round trip commute. I have owned many BMW's and always did The maintenance myself. This one was a little neglected, but had good bones. I replaced the serpentine belt today and changed the oil & filter. Replacing the belt was not that difficult. The only outstanding issue right now is at the bottom of both tail lights there is some rust bubbles developing under the paint. Really enjoying the little Mini and my wife and I plan to take a trip through the mountains this summer. Definitely see a newer one in the future.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:37 PM
  #118  
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mav899
Neutral
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 9
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From: Brisbane Australia
05 cooper s with 158000 klms on the clock, drives great or did drive great till the clutch thrust bearing went last week,
putting in a new dual mass flywheel/clutch kit at the moment, no other problems so far though
lovin it
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #119  
BSQ's Avatar
BSQ
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Charlotte, Atlanta, L.A.
04 S with 118,000 miles on him. Only major repairs were at 95k (clutch, rack n pinion steering, oil pan, and a few other goodies while the car was apart). Otherwise, just routine maintenance and a new dipstick at 115K (sucked in a bird)

No issues since then, though the American flag on my roof has seen better days and i have found a couple random screws on my back seat - no clue what they came from.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #120  
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reelsmith.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Ridgefield, CT
So far, not as bad as some folks here. 71K miles. Replaced the thermostat housing twice and the power steering pump once. Just beginning to have shifting issues so looking into changing the cables.

Are the second gens holding up better or worse than the first gens?

dean.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #121  
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maxmini
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: L.A ca
84,000 mostly hard miles on my 02.

In the first year I had a steering pump issue and a bad compressor for the AC, both were fixed under warranty.

Nothing since

Randy
M7 Tuning
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #122  
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Da_Ghost
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 880
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From: Québec, Canada
2005 Mini Cooper S with 124XXXkm (around 77050 miles), I own it since december 2009.

- Power steering pump
- Crank sensor seal
- Control arm bushings
- Upper motor mount (the usual leaking)
- Alternator (bearing in the back was chewing itself out, throwing crap inside itself)
- Battery (a week after the alt took a crap, but it was the 8 years old oem one :p)
- Spark plug ejected itself from cylinder one, used a timesert (but this is probably due to bad torquing on my end)

Other than that it was pretty much basic maintenance.
 
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