Lowering my 2006 r50

Im not going to be able to afford coilovers for a long time, and when i do buy them.. I only plan to lower MAYBE 2.5 in. Probably 2 is where ill go.

For the mean time, would lowering springs be a good choice?

Which lowering springs seem to be reliable and go the lowest?

Will i need new dampers when i get lowering springs? Will they tear up any other stock parts?

Thanks!

 

Look at tsw Springs?!
Pretty mild drop, can stick with a stock shocks/struts...many folks love them.
Waymotorworks took over the tsw product line...and he mentioned a few months back he just got a fresh supply in stock. Might be work checking with them!!

 

Thanks man! Going look now (:

So no need for dampers? I will need an alignment after correct?

 

Only lowering 2-2.5inch That's ALOT.

If that is the look your going for just save up and get the Vmaxx coilovers they are prob in the price range your looking

 

The vmaxx are 650. Ive checked em out, and do plan on getting them, but it will be probably a year or so from now, maybe a little sooner. Never can tell.

I'd probably go 2 inches max. Ive got buddies at 3 and 4, lol. But these Louisiana roads dont really cooperate with lowered cars well ;P.

What you think ab tein or HR lowering springs for the meantime? My main focus is killing the wheelgap.

 

I agree with Way, if you're planning coilovers in the future, don't bother with springs. Just put that money in your coilover fund and be patient. From pictures I've seen, the Vmaxx can go LOW.

 

Well say i didnt invest in coilovers... Would tein or HR springs be enough to kill the wheelgap on my mini?

Im buying this car and paying my insurance myself, and when your 16 and work at burger king... Big investments are hard :P. I finally got my Wheels, waiting for tires right now. Haha.

 

Well say i didnt go with coils.. What if i did HR's or teins lowering springs. Would it kill the wheel gap? Thats all i rlly care about. Would i have problems if i run them for too long?

Big investments are hard for me. Im 16, still in school, and work at a Burger king. I also pay the note on this car, along with insurance. I Finally saved up enough to buy my wheels.. Now that those came in im awaiting my tires :D.

 

I read someplace that the stock Mini S suspension has 2.5 inches of travel including the bump stop. I'm not sure what the R50 is, but it'll be the same if you have the sport suspension option. So to get that low, as I understand it, you're looking at coilovers.

My only experience is with my own S. I bought some cheap-o Bav Auto springs, because I've always had very good experiences with their BMW stuff. They lowered my R53 about 30 mm, as stated, and ride like short-travel pogo-sticks. The car handles awesome, but is not comfortable.

I'd definitely like to know if more expensive springs rode nicer. But - again, as I understand it - until suspension systems get pretty sophisticated - rare and expensive, on cars - the damper pretty much entirely controls the way the spring moves through its travel. So cheap springs and expensive springs are going to be limited equally by the shock. Koni FSDs and up, price-wise, are where this might improve. In the world of dampers, until you start spending major coin, automobile dampers just aren't very sophisticated. (The rear shock on my mountain bike, for instance, cost the same amount as FSDs, and is far more technologically advanced. "Frequency selective dampers" are old hat for major damper players like Fox.)

 

If you're just trying to get rid of wheel gap, look into HSports. Below is a pic of my car with them in stock wheels for reference.

 

Lowering springs are not going to get near your 2" goal but you really do not want to drop that much with springs because you will not have any suspension travel left. I had the H&R springs on my 2003 R53 and really liked the amount of drop. The rear drop was perfect. The front was about 1/4" higher than I would have preferred. You can trim the front strut mount bracket 1/4" to get the height about right from a looks standpoint.

Alta had springs with a little more front drop than rear (for good looks) but I do not believe those springs are available any more.

 

Yea i think i may just go with springs for now, as long as my wheel gap isnt as big as it is now, hell a 1 inch drop should be great.

My shocks will probably eventually wear out due to springs wont they?

Are springs hard to install?

Will i need an alignment after?

 

- I had my OEM MCS (R53) shocks with H&R springs for over 45,000 miles with no issues.
Here is a link to one "How To" for a spring install.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-how-to.html
- You need a spring compressor (cheap $20 from Harbor Freight will work):
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html
- You will also need some way to get the top strut nut off and on. I use an impact wrench to remove but you still need a way to torque for the install. There are special sockets but I just use a spark plug socket with a hex pattern on the top. I put the allen wrench through the hole in the socket (where the ratchet would usually attach) and I put a wrench on the hex part of the socket. The disadvantage is there is no way to measure the torque with this approach so I just tighten to an approximate value.
- An alignment is not required but a good idea. One issue with lowering is that the rear camber will go very negative (thus wearing the inside edge of the tire). On the 2006 R53 the rear camber can be adjusted slightly with the stock lower control arm. I do not know if the R50 has the same adjustable lower control arms. Even the stock adjustable arm will probably not adjust enough to get the rear camber to the -1.5 range so you will still get more tire wear in the rear but frequent tire rotation will help. You will probably want to purchase aftermarket adjustable lower control arm to better adjust the rear camber. Such as:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...ber-links.html
If if have/buy adjustable control arms, you will need an alignment to get the rear camber and toe adjusted properly.

 

Like bigtime Negative camber?

 

Yes, bigtime. Count on needing new control arms with almost any amount of drop. I did my springs about two weeks before my control arms, and it handled like garbage and started to show tire wear in that time. I would also say a proper alignment is a must.

 

Cant you just get camber plates?

 

Only for the front. You might not need those, but I can pretty much guarantee you'll need control arms for the back.

 

Well that sucks :c. My reason for going springs instead of coilovers was to save money. ahh crap.

 

Ok, gotta say it, this isn't going to be what you want to hear but I'm trying to help. You said you don't have any money to afford to do the coilovers, or a mix of other suspension. So don't do ANYTHING then. Save your money to do it right one time. That means get the coilovers, and the rear control arms, and a proper alignment. Otherwise you are never going to get your car right.

If you just put springs to slam your car your going to ruin your shocks, then you'll have to replace them.$$$$
If you just put springs to slam your car and no control arms you'll eat through those tires that you are currently waiting to get $$$$
If you get just coilovers, slam the car and no control arms, again you will eat through those expensive tires $$$$
If you do any of the above and don't get a proper alignment you'll need to buy tires again $$$$

Not to mention you said you just got this car. Hows the maintenance?? Have you done control arm bushings?? how bout oil leaks? motor mounts? strut mounts? These are VERY common problems on used MINI's, don't spend money on mods and need normal repairs.

I'm trying to help, as a Vendor selling mods is what I do for a living, but I can't watch someone spend their money on mods then have a car they can't afford later. It doesn't make sense long term.

 

Well first off.... You cant "slam" a car on springs. And from what ive seen, some people get by with the bit of camber adjustment the cars have OEM.

I plan on getting coilovers in a year... maybe year and a halfs time. The shocks may be dead by then.. But coils replace that whole unit. correct?

Also... I dont drive the car that much. So it wont be major wear on the shocks, 5k miles a year maybe? ive had the car 7 months and havent put 3k.

All the mounts are fine, all of the fluids have been changed throughout the car. It wasnt bought used from a person either, it was from a dealer so im sure they did a bit of fixing before putting it on their lot.

And lastly, i didnt know all of this about lowering springs because ive never messed or researched with them before. From what i had known, you could lower your car about an inch and use the stock adjustable arms and get by perfectly fine, so i didnt know i couldnt rlly afford it.

BUT ive made a decision and ill be ordering the control arms from your site and some springs off of ebay. When i get the money to afford the coils, im also buying those from your site.

Thanks (:

 

Way knows what he's talking about, that seems like pretty good advice to me. Do it right the first time, or it will always cost more in the long run. Applies to most things. I have coilovers sitting in a box in my spare room, but I'm not installing them until 1) it's springtime. 2) I have the money to spend on control arms, camber plates, and spacers. Weather permitting I could do it in March, but it'll probably be early summer to do it right.. oh well.

 

So do you think If I bought the vmaxx coils, hotchkins rear arms, and got a good alignment. I would be okay???

Seems like the best way to go right? Just save and do it. How much you think it will be in the long run? Maybe the 1000 range?

By the way, way..(no pun intended). Sorry if I sounded like a butthole! Lol

 

Are you doing the install yourself, or are you paying someone? That's the big price difference right there. $650 for the coilovers, $240 for control arms = $890. $1000 would get you parts and the alignment, but labor is another bill to consider.

I'm actually not sure what the rough install time is on coilovers. I'd be curious to know, it would help my budgeting.

Also, partial thread jack: Way, which control arms would you suggest? Helix, TSW, or H-Sport?

 

Thanks so much Danny. Your always a big help! I figure that if I can save 600 in 2 and a half months.. 1000 dollars shouldn't take too long! What parts should I need after coils and control arms?

 

No problem! I'm not a suspension expert by any means, but I don't think you'll need anything else... I know I'll need 5mm spacers to make my ST coilovers fit, don't know if you'll need them with the vmax. Many have recommended IE Camber Plates, maybe someone more versed will chime in on when those become a necessity.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/ireland...e-r50-r53.html