No, it is solid, in fact I think it is far more solid than the original fiberglass and its crappy plastic wrapping.

 

I would be worried that the JB weld might loosen over time and allow the two to separate. I would drill a small hole in the end of the metal and drill a corresponding hole in the yellow handle just below the lowest rubber gasket and use a pin to hold it in place so it could not slip out. Other than that, nice solution.

 

That's a good idea ACE, but it makes the fix a little more complicated. Norm03s made his in September 2009 and I presume it held or we would have heard from him (he posted in this thread).

 

No problems here and don't expect to ever have any either. I can read the oil level right after an oil change, you can't do that on the OEM dip stick.
To read the oil level on the OEM stick, carefully lay the stick on a clean napkin, the oil will wet the napkin to see the oil level.
Furthermore I have reinforced the depression in the hex of my oil canister with an aluminum disk JB welded in place and tapped it for my oil temp. sensor. How long ago? I forget, I posted that here also awhile ago.
I will say, you must provide some tooth for it to grasp, clean the surfaces with brake cleaner and let it cure properly.
JB weld is amazing stuff, I trust it and the proof is that it hasn’t failed. No worries about JB if you just read and follow the directions.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

 

I think I'm gonna do it! I just realized if the JB Weld does fail, the dipstick wont be far from the top anyways! I'm sick of trying 3 or 4 times to read the stock dipstick, and that would suck if it failed. I've pulled my oil pan twice, and I definitely don't wanna do it again! Thanks guys!

 

I'm on my 3rd dipstick on my '04 MCS. Dipstick No. 2 broke about 4" from the handle end. The replacement I bought did not come with any "O" rings on the handle. I was about to switch the rings from my old dip stick to the new when I realized a solution to the problem. The "O' rings typically swell from the heat and exposure to the oil, making the dip stick very hard to pull out. I always had to twist the handle back and forth in order to break the dip stick loose. This twisting eventually leads to a failure. I now keep the new full length dip stick (sans "O" rings) in the boot and use what's left of the broken dip stick to plug the dip stick tube during normal operation. No more broken dip sticks!

 

No problems here.

 

I wish I saw this last month. I did search on broken dipstick and this never came up.

I just had to replace the dip stick on my R52 and bought a new one because I figured that's what they came with and it feel like it binds goin in and coming out.

I rremoved the tube to get the broken piece and the tube had no odd bends, they all look smooth.

Since I already have the broken one I will be making one of these and just hold on to the new one.

 

Thanks for the info. The dealer during an inspection told me that my dip stick was bent. I didn't think much of it as I knew it wasn't perfectly straight as the dip stick was 5 years old (the first one broke when the car was only 2 yrs old) and the oil pan was removed under warranty). Well it was more than bent as I discovered 2 weeks later when I checked on it. It was still together, but just barely. I also checked the garbage cans at my local chain car parts shop and low and behold... a 26" wiper blade. Thanks for all the info. My dealer wanted almost $40. This one cost me $6 for the JBWeld and a bit of time.

 

Well, I made the dipstick from the wiper blade. It works, but is very difficult to get all the way in the tube without catching inside. Perhaps I'll make another from a round wire or coil and see how it goes.

 

I just finished making mine. I machined the ends from aluminum and use a speedometer cable for the shaft. I also used a plastic pull **** to insulate from the heat. Using JB weld is perfect for this application.

 

I purchased a drain cleaner (snake) from Harbor Freight and tried it out. It just glides into the dip stick tube. I'll make another dip stick with this spring when I find a way to manufacture a new handle.

this is what I bought
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-s...ner-60523.html
this looks to be the same
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-s...ner-96043.html

 

Sounds a lot like the cravenspeed dipstick.
https://www.outmotoring.com/cravensp...-dipstick.html

I have one but haven't started to use it yet. With the material that it's made of (spring?) isn't anyone worried that all it will do is flop and giggle around all the time in the oil pan when driving?

 

Still, no problems here if you save your old handle you can make one for your self.
I used the stainless steel spine from a windshield wiper blade, think it was 23/24", found it in the trash can in front of Advance Auto.

 

I did similar but a used a 2011 Elantra dip stick. (I was able to try my daughter's on the MINI for size). Just the right size.
Nice wraped wire design that slides in well.
Used an old handle, drilled out for the new dip stick, JB weld to hold it all in place. I think I paid about $5 for the Elantra dip stick.
One year of use and no problems. Also much less than Cravenspeed.

 

Excellent!

 

Okay guys, long story short. Ran my 03 for 5k mold after oil change, heard a loud knocking noise and see that my dipstick was bone dry. I added two quarts.... Still low. Added a third quart almost there... Added four and finally everything felt smooth and the stick seemed to say so as well. I checked my level yesterday just to be sure and now it looks like I've added way too much. Can anyone confirm this. I'll show a couple different reads.

 

Sorry for reviving an old beast here, but I just did the Dip Stick fix as prescribed by Norm, with a windshield spine. It fashioned great and I'm please with the looks of the new stick, but does anyone else have trouble inserting the modded stick into the pan?

Mine seems to make the first turn just fine but seems to "grab" the tube about 2/3 of the way down.. Has anyone noticed a break-in period or had to round off the tip more than expected?

Thanks in advance.

 

I know exactly what you're talking about here... I ground mine down with a bench grinder quite a bit when I made it, and once it was narrow I had no problems getting it in and out. You should also have a rounded off point.

 

Wondeful, thanks Michael. I softened the leading edges but perhaps I will narrow it a bit, round and smooth them and see if that does the trick! Cheers

 

try using a weed eater shaft the inside of a small weed eater shaft electric or gas cut an inch longer 23 3/8 on bench grinder heat one end and melt it into old gasket end cut length from butt to end 22 3/8 inch then put a POINT ON THE END TO HELP PREVENT HANG UPS also mark with file 22 3/16 inch and mark 21 1/8 inch to indicate quart low

 

This is exactly what I do now. Caught mine before it broke, so I simply cut it off & used the handle w/ o-rings to plug the dipstick tube. I keep the new OE in the boot. No heat, no struggle, no more risk of breaking...this should last a loooong time.
I admire the effort of modding but the OE dipstick doesn't cost much....plus, you get accuracy & peace of mind.