My car is an '06 R53.

Did the search(es) and read a lot. Looked at the Mini-specific trailer hitches from NAM's vendors and Mini suppliers and thought, why do they cost so damn much?

The U-Haul hitch is exactly the same, mounts the same way, does the same job and costs only $130. The only problem I had with installation was that I had to grind a half-inch groove/notch into each end of the aluminum brace where the ends of the hitch crossbar hit it. (Otherwise, you can't tighten down the eight bolts properly. If you get the U-Haul hitch, it will be obvious - just keep an angle grinder handy.)

Used MDM's excellent instructions (http://www.minidomore.com/pdf/2002-2...structions.pdf)
Here's my list of additional install notes:

• I had a helluva time getting the four plastic expanding rivets out of the wheel well liners. Ended up just prying them out completely and got four new from Mini dealer.
• Don't forget to pry out the original wire harness tabs from under the black brace and move the harness out of the way.
• MDM didn't mention removing fastener "D" (their pic looks like a speed nut), but I think they would be referring to the two nuts (plastic on mine) that hold the aluminum cross brace to the original black brace. Remove these and discard the original black brace (the hitch replaces it completely).
• The reflector lights didn't just "pull out" on mine - they did have to twist to release.
• What they show as "F" and "G"(2) don't - or shouldn't - come off.
• "The final two 'C' screws" they mention are actually inside the rubber hatch door bumpers.

One more installation note: you'll have to cut the heat shield to allow the safety chain loops on the hitch to be accessed. Easy to do, just make a couple of slits and push the shield up so that the loops come through.

The U-Haul wiring kit (part #56200, converter: 3-2 wire, pulse width modulator) was another $80 - manufacturer, Curt. But it wasn't working properly so I took it (and the car) back to U-Haul and the guy worked on it for over an hour, even using a new kit, but same problem. (We were getting no running lights out of the flat-four trailer plug.) The kit's wiring instructions said to tap that one wire (for both brakes and running lights) into the Mini brake light wire, which I had done properly at home. We tried it seven different ways from Sunday, making sure the ground wire was secure, etc, but couldn't get it to work properly.

He ended up using their standard lighting converter ("Trailer Light Power Module", #13493, $40), which works like it should. Even hooked up a trailer to make sure. Total cost from U-Haul and installing myself - under $200.

Hitch is hidden behind the bumper, completely out of sight. The wiring converter hides nicely behind the driver's side access cover in the boot; the small black oval plastic trim piece hides the receiver; pop it out, stick in the draw bar and ball, and you're good to go!

 

Nice writeup!
I assume the muffler has to drop for this- mine needs to be replaced anyway. Perhaps I should drop some money on a hitch...

 

No pics?!?!

 

Nope. I already had the one-ball mod done, so no resonator on one side. But the only time the exhaust system would get in the way is when you're cutting the heat shield - easier from below (if no exhaust) but not hard if those "*****" are down there and you have to cut from on top of the shield.

Sorry about lack of pics, but it's exactly like the link posted above (and totally hidden afterward).

 

So was the hitch you used similar to the Curt hitches for the non-S models?